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Locked up engine?

Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
  • 2012 TOYOTA CAMRY
  • 2.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 155,000 MILES
This car was on the side of the road. Apparently it just quit while driving and will not start. It attempts to start and everything turned so we had it towed back.

When it arrived the battery was toast so I bought a new one. The computer is throwing codes saying camshaft position sensor "B" has high input voltage, also Camshaft position sensor "B" performance.

Tried to start diagnosing the issue by checking voltage at the connector for that sensor, got 5V at the reference circuit, and shortly after starting it with a new battery a loud bang happened and the starter smoked. So I put in a new starter, and that blew up immediately. Took it back and got another, and the new starter just hits really hard but the motor isn't turning anymore. I tried jacking up the car with both wheels in the air and transmission in Neutral to turn the engine by hand at the crank and it will not budge, even with the spark plugs out
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Saturday, September 5th, 2020 AT 5:38 PM

22 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
If it will not turn by hand then yes. It is locked up. I would pull the plugs and use a borescope and look in the cylinders for any damage. If it look rusted, you can use penetrating oil to try and break it loose. However, if this just happened then I suspect the crank is seized due to lack of lubrication. This could be due to a failed oil pump or lack of maintenance.

At that point, you need to drop the pan and see what is going on inside the engine. Let me know if you have other questions. Thanks
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Saturday, September 5th, 2020 AT 6:00 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,867 POSTS
Hi,

Something locked up, but since you experienced the starter issues, the first thing I would check is the flywheel/torque converter to see if a bolt has come loose.

If nothing is apparent there, remove the valve cover and inspect the timing chain to make sure nothing has come apart.

See pics 1 and 2 below.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Saturday, September 5th, 2020 AT 6:07 PM
Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
  • 672 POSTS
Well. Looks like the timing chain broke. Wow. On 150,000!
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Sunday, September 6th, 2020 AT 7:01 AM
Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
  • 672 POSTS
So at this point I guess I need to know if this is an interference engine or not, and where to go at this point.
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Sunday, September 6th, 2020 AT 7:25 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Okay. Good idea Joe. At this point I show this is a non interference engine (see attached) so I imagine the chain is bound up around the crank not allowing it to turn. So you need to remove the front cover and remove it and reset the timing and install a new chain. Clearly once it is removed, turn everything over and make sure it spins freely.
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Sunday, September 6th, 2020 AT 8:25 AM
Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
  • 672 POSTS
But the real question is, why did this chain break so early? This is almost unheard of in a Toyota. And what is the procedure for removing the timing cover and resetting the timing?
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Sunday, September 6th, 2020 AT 8:28 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Unfortunately, I think you said the key term, "almost" unheard of which means it is heard of even though it is rare. Unfortunately it appears you have one of the rare ones. These timing chains just fail at times. It could have been just a weak link in the chain that took this many miles to finally fail.

I attached the procedure for your review.
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+1
Sunday, September 6th, 2020 AT 9:29 AM
Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
  • 672 POSTS
I'm familiar with lining up the crank but the cam timing instructions are a little weird, shouldn't you just rotate them like so or what? I don't recall having to remove bearing caps and stuff.
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Sunday, September 6th, 2020 AT 10:38 AM
Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
  • 672 POSTS
I'm sorry, what I'm asking is it looks like your instructions want me to remove the cams, is that really necessary or is that just part of the general instruction where you took your screenshots? I was assuming I only needed to turn the cams to their 0 marks as well as the crank and let her rip.
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Monday, September 7th, 2020 AT 7:27 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,867 POSTS
Hi,

If you are simply setting base engine timing, you don't need to remove the cams. Simply make sure they are properly aligned. That is the biggest concern. See pic below. Note that the chain will have painted links. They need to be in the correct positions.

Let me know if that helps.

Joe
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Monday, September 7th, 2020 AT 8:12 PM
Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
  • 672 POSTS
Also step 1 says removing the engine/trans-axle assembly. Is that really necessary?
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Tuesday, September 8th, 2020 AT 4:12 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
No. Sorry for the confusion. They didn’t have a procedure for just the timing cover or chain so I had to pull it out of the rebuild info.
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Tuesday, September 8th, 2020 AT 5:51 AM
Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
  • 672 POSTS
What about that engine bracket? Can it just be removed or do I need to jack up the engine? Will need to remove the oil pan just to be sure I get any chain bits out of there so.
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Saturday, September 12th, 2020 AT 8:19 AM
Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
  • 672 POSTS
Unfortunately everything I read mentions removing the engine/transmission assembly. When I search for oil pump removal, or timing chain removal, etc. Which seems a little ridiculous.
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Saturday, September 12th, 2020 AT 9:08 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Yeah. These manuals are only showing these components during the engine overhaul and not in-vehicle repairs. I have not done any of these personally on this engine but find it hard to believe it can't be done in the vehicle. I will keep looking for other information and let you know what I turn up.
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Saturday, September 12th, 2020 AT 6:28 PM
Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
  • 672 POSTS
Well here's the damage. Doesn't look good. There's a bent/chipped gear on the crank that possibly drives the oil pump?
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Monday, September 14th, 2020 AT 4:27 PM
Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
  • 672 POSTS
Okay, so that wheel is just the crankshaft position angle plate. Does it look like it needs to be replaced? I can't find one on parts. Toyota. Com, only a diagram. Also, the chain guide pictured seems to be bolted in with a bolt that goes through the timing cover, so how would I go about putting all this back together? Or is it worth putting back together?

Also I cannot remove the timing cover unless I get the lower engine mount out. Two of the studs on the mount seem to be riveted in or something. Only one nut on the bottom and one on the top for a bracket and the rest are these threaded studs.
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Monday, September 14th, 2020 AT 5:52 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Just wanted to throw my 2 cents in.

The tone wheel for the crank sensor is part of the crankshaft itself.

That is why you cannot find it in any parts catalog.

At the point you are at, I would replace the motor as most likely you have valve and possible piston damage as a result of the chain failure.

Roy
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Tuesday, September 15th, 2020 AT 4:01 AM
Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
  • 672 POSTS
But it was supposed to be a non interference motor. Also the tone wheel slides off with the crank sprocket.
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Tuesday, September 15th, 2020 AT 4:14 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
I checked as well and the old 4 cylinders were non interference engines but the newer one are interference engines. The fact it was running and failed makes me think you are heading for a full rebuild.

The tone ring looks to be part of the cranks. I understand you removed it but they do not list it. Even re-manufactured cranks have the tone ring attached to it.

You sure do keep yourself busy with these projects.

Roy
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Tuesday, September 15th, 2020 AT 4:18 AM

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