Where is the vapor canister vent valve located?

Okay, I will do that and let you know if acceleration and that idle surge change after I get this cam actuator code reset. I was also wondering, AL, do you have contact info or Facebook? You are the only one I actually got help with and you actually trained me to work on electrical systems. I learned a lot from you. I am a beginner mechanic still trying to work my way to the top of the ladder in this industry.

But you really have given me some good info to fix my car so I would like to keep in touch with you just in case anything should happen with this site and if it would ever close.

Hi, AL, I have been doing a lot of work on this car lately and I apologize for the late reply. A lot of stuff on this car is having a lot of problems. It's at 78k now.

It's not hot outside anymore it's almost winter so the rpm idle surged has calm down. I think maybe replacing both of the VVT Solenoid sensors and repairing the wiring connectors at the VVT Solenoids helped the engine performance. But it's too early too tell about what the rpm surging is all about because it doesn't really cause any idle rpm surging in the winter. It just does it when it's hot outside. So time will tell I guess with that.

Acceleration is better and I have poured some 93 ultra in it because it sat for 2 months almost and I wanted to clean out any carbon.

It has be frustrating because parts for this vehicle have to be special ordered online because they aren't available in local parts store and they need to be ordered. Almost everything for this car has been replaced. Some I just replaced to save time. Here's what I replaced on this car during August-Nov.

- PURGE VALVE SOLENOID
- EVAP VENT VALVE SOLENOID
- NTAKE MANIFOLD KIT, CAME WITH NEW FUEL RAIL AND ALL FUEL INJECTORS AND MAP SENSOR
- VVT SOLENOIDS, INTAKE SIDE AND EXHAUST SIDE
- VVT SOLENOID CONNECTORS, WIRING WAS FALLING APART AT BOTH OF THE CONNECTORS
- CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSORS, 2 ON THIS VEHICLE
- CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
-STARTER WAS WEAK SO I REPLACED THAT
- OIL PAN DRAIN BOLT STRIPPED, SO I REPLACED THE PAN

*Now the car is making noises at one of the accessories. The belt and tensioner are not that old. The water pump and pulley is still good, alternator I had to just replace last month. So only thing I can tell the noise is coming from is at the harmonic balancer because I hear the noise coming from near it and I read these only last 50k to 60k and the car is near 80k so I rather just replace it. I have some questions on how to replace that because it's my first time replacing one.

You have been one of the best helpers on this entire site and I thank you for taking the time to help me out. My email is chrisdeleo@live. Com so if your boss agrees it would be ok to talk off here you can reach out to me off here.

Sounds good Al, thank you for asking on my behalf I really appreciate it. I will continue checking on the surging issue if it should happen again.

My main focus is this noise. It doesn't sound like a serpentine belt squeal. It sounds like a rattling noise. If I can get the noise clearly, I can take a video of it if that's okay?

At first, I thought it was engine knocking, but then I had to do some research because I am still learning about the sounds in a vehicle and what they are. I tried to compare if it was a belt squeal or a crank pulley. It sounds more like a crank pulley starting to go out. It's not loud, it only sounds like it's rattling and does it at idle only. It's off and on and the rattling disappears when you are driving. It happens at idle when you are sitting there. It started doing it shortly after I finished my oil pan, but I don't think that's related. My oil level is where it should be, and nothing is leaking. The engine is healthy and drives great.