Just replaced thermostat and car is still overheating?

I changed the thermostat and bleed the air. The engine still overheats and blows coolant out of the reservoir. Engine has a rattling sound when low idle. I started seeing coolant on ground.

After changing thermostat, engine is still overheating, fans are working when A/C is on.

Alright another over heating issue, this explanation will be long to cover all symptoms, issues and attempts of fixing from other forums. But I have read almost every other forum and post and still cannot find problem or resolve. Of course if I had money I would have it fixed already, but on a budget that is almost dry. History of car; bought from a public auction drove it home fine and to work for about a week no "serious" issues except coolant reservoir boiling and loosing water which I would just add more. But no over heating, wanted to fix this problem to have a reliable daily, so started to replace parts that lead to over heating problem. Found out radiator cap was all jerry rigged to stay open allowing it to loose heat and pressure (i am thinking so it would not overheat at auction/quick fix)and radiator opening was scared and messed with. So bought new radiator and cap, this sealed coolant system to function properly. Now it starts to over heat and loosing coolant from around water pump. So go a head and replace water pump and serpentine belt. Water pump was bad, lots of build up around "weep hole" and fins corroded. Still over heating so I replace thermostat. Still over heating so find all issues and resolve on forums to fix issue. I have checked thermostat. In boiling pot, both old and new one open up fine. I do a compression test, all cylinders 140-145. Lower than specs saying around 180. But this should not be a cause of over heating? As just worn rings. Next forums saying bad head gasket or faulty head cracked/warped. I do not think it could be this as there is no water in oil (milky liquid) or excessive amount of water out from exhaust pipe nor any visible leaking from anywhere. So I try my luck with Bars HG sealer anyways and still no luck. Find out about the head gasket leak test. I have gone ahead and did the test with the two chambered detector to get a more accurate reading. I unfortunately cannot get a confirmed positive or negative as the blue liquid is suppose to turn yellow for gasoline engines and green for diesels. Well the liquid turned green. Tried it a few more times to get better results still only turns green. Tested it with breath (as instructions explain) and exhaust pipe and can get it to turn yellow. So it does work. So not sure how to decide if I do have a faulty head gasket with the wrong color positive. Any help with this? So back to square one! Last attempt was buying the "fail safe" thermostat thinking the new thermostat I bought could have been faulty some how. Still no luck and now the symptoms are; top radiator hose gets piping hot and bottom will stay cold, not even warm. Will always start up car with hot air on funnel in radiator filled with coolant to do the "burping" process every time to rid system of any air but system will continue to "burp" up air from funnel in radiator; to the point of car reaching operating temperature but coolant will start to boil out where I will have to shut it down before all coolant is pushed out. Car cannot get more than a mile before it starts to over heat. And wont ever over heat at idle sitting, even revving up to simulate stress; only over heat when driving. So confirmed air getting in system and believe thermostat not opening correctly because of this. And no check engine lights come on and car runs and idles amazing other than overheating. I think I have covered everything if anyone can help out I would be unbelievably grateful as this is all my money in this car for transportation to make money. :( Almost broke and out of options. Thank you in advance!

AL514: first off thank you and anyone else who reads my long post and help out. So I hoped you are/where right with the cylinder head because all I need is a confirmed problem to make my assessment to fix the confirmed problem as I don't want to have to remove the head and risk messing up or removing to find out there is nothing wrong with head or gasket. And spend more hours, time and money into a problem I don't have. Your cylinder leakage test wasn't detailed on how to if you don't have a youtube video link or something like this? But I went ahead and tried to what I assumed would be the way by removing one spark plug at a time and hooking up a compression test hose to it to my compressor at 120 PSI of compression. And making sure the valves where open for the exhaust side by feeling air coming out the tailpipe I had my brother hold shut the tailpipe to build pressure in the system. There seemed to be no other leaking of air anywhere else; all the while I did this test I had a funnel and coolant topped off coming out the radiator fill cap and no bubbles came up indicating a leak in head gasket into the coolant system. All cylinders where double checked this way and another compression test was taken COLD I know this is not the best way to get max compression but did anyways to double check compression since last check of 140-145 and adding the Bars leak. So the readings where cold at 1st cylinder 130, 2nd cylinder at 125, 3rd at 130 and 4th cylinder at 125. I imagine warmed up it would probably be at the 140-145 range. So this tells me there still within range of each other not being a bad HG correct? We sprayed a hose through the coolant system as well as some air, Seems to flow good through radiator and top hose through block and heater core. No gunk or debri, pretty much flushed the system clear of the Bars leak. Also did a second test of the combustion leak detector and did not get a positive yellow. So I don't see how it can be the HG. Only confirmed issues are; air constantly getting into the coolant system which I think is making it overheat by making the thermostat not run right and messing with the system. Is there any other way air could be getting into the system?

AL514: I couldn't be any more excited and at the same time a little upset for the amount of work ill be putting in to fix this HEAD GASKET! Haha but thank you so much for suggesting the cylinder leakage test AL514 I think if anyone ever has an overheating issue or thought it could be a bad HG I suggest ONLY doing this test I could have saved 80$ from trying blue devil and Bars HG leak, as well as the 50$ from the other combustion gases test in the coolant that I tried multiple times never giving me a positive yellow im assuming because the leak was too small? But for any one else reading this forum; SYMPTOM was OVER HEATING, with all cooling system parts replaced(radiator, cap, thermostat, water pump) and other DIY tests done I could find and think of all coming up inconclusive and and not confirming a BAD head gasket or possibly cracked/warped head. But doing this "cylinder leakage test" gave me the confirmation to go ahead and start on fixing the headgasket. I will post pics of how I did the test with a type of DIY set up as I am running low on time and money to buy the actual kit or wait on shipping. The CONFIRMED reaction was putting 120PSI compression in cylinder 2 and getting bubbles come up out of the radiator telling me there is a leak somewhere in the head gasket or head getting into the coolant system. Which I can finally now buy the gasket hope its only the gasket and replace it with $50 for a gasket kit and a few hours of labor! But AL514 if you know of any good youtube videos or tutorials links to fixing a headgasket for my vehicle? Any ways thank you again! Please see below pics for the set up(for anyone wanting to do this test) which was a compressor with 120psi, valve attached to end with universal connectors to fit onto a "compression test" hose down into the spark plug hole. And all I did was turn the motor over till the piston I was on was at Top Dead Center. And stuck a rag in the serpentine pully to keep it from turning over the piston(also in pics). Than opening up the valve to push air that come out the radiator.

Engine Cooling problem 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 109000 miles

my car has been slowly leaking coolant for the past 3 days. Then today the temperature gauge went way up and then back down to normal and then up again. When I got home and turned off my car, it was smoking (just a little).

My 2003 Camry 4 cyl (120,000 miles) did this exact same thing! I immediately took it to the closest dealer, it was less than a mile (this is not the dealer I use). Come to find out that the coolant leak was behind the engine. They warned me that it was the head gasket and that the block could possibly be warped. Well you guessed it, the block was warped and 2 bolts were stripped while they were trying to remove it! I have never had this much trouble with any of the Toyotas I have owned. I guess since I was a woman they thought I didn't know enough about cars. They were wrong. I'd like to know how a block can get warped in an manner of a few seconds! I was floored! I immediately hired a roll-back to go get my vehicle and it now sits in my neighbor's driveway waiting for a $2700 engine to replace the one that dealer screwed up in my car! I will never use that dealership again. I will leave my car on the side of the road next time! Please be careful!

Hello NC4176, Toyota actually had an issue with the 2az four cylinder head bolts pulling out of the block, usually from the back side of the head. The reason you might never see a coolant leak there is because underneath the intake plenum sits a large piece of foam that will act as a sponge absorbing most of the coolant that leaks out. This problem was in the first generation of that engine 2002 thru 2006. When this does occur the head will literally pull away from the block. May result in misfire, I have seen this with coolant and or oil streaming down the side of the block. There is a repair for this but is quiet costly due to the amount of labor involved. It involves tearing the engine down and drilling out the block threads and installing inserts into the block. If this is the case and you want to repair the car it may very well be more cost effective to price and install a used engine. Toyotech for 15 years and have seen this several times.

Was driving down the interstate 65-70 miles an hour air conditioning was fine then it was like the heat was on the car burped, then the air conditioning was fine. Temperature gauge was reading a little bit above halfway then again the air conditioning went to heat and the temperature gauge went into red.
Pulled over, stop the car. Open the hood, the hood was not hot to touch. I did notice that prior to leaving on this trip, in the reservoir that it was slightly below full to now 3 inches above full and it was bubbling as well, that is in the reservoir. The car has not cooled down enough yet to start it to See if the fan is working or not. There is no obvious leaks in the engine compartment or on the ground underneath at this time.

I changed the water pump on my 2003 toyota camry, I've made sure all the air is out of the engine. When I idle the engine the temperature is fine, it does not overheat, and the heat works well.
But once I start to drive it, it gets hot and throws out the water through the resivoir and the heat does not work, until it cools ad I add coolant. Each time I try driving it heats up and backs the coolant out.
What can be causing this?