No brake lights - fuse?

Do you have power at the brake switch? If so, do a continuity check on the white and tan wire when it leaves the brake switch all the way to the bulb socket-no reading the white and tan is open.

Here is a guide that can help us fix the problem as well:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/no-tail-lights-exterior-running-lights-tail-lights-out

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Also, check the main control switch. We are loosing the power somewhere just got to find it

Check out the wiring and fuse diagrams (below).

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers

What type of Cherokee is this?

You have a fuse in the power distribution box that powers the brake switch. It is number 23 15 amp.

The wire colors at the brake switch is tan/white and pink/dark blue confirm this. You should have power at pink/dark blue at all times.

When you depress the brake both should have power.

This is the best I could do with EWD image you need to blow it up, need more help comeback.

The pink/white wire should always have power-depressing the plunger should open the circuit and depressing it should transfer power to the white/tan wire.

Thanks for all your help. Under hood fuse 23 was the problem.

Thank you for your time on this.

Dave

You are welcome. If you have another other car problems you know where to go.
Thanks for the donation and tell friends about us.

I do not. what is going on? I came up for yours the same fuse at number 23 see below.

Welcome to 2CarPros.

If there is power at the fuse, does it exit the fuse box? You could have power available that goes nowhere because of a bad fuse, pushed out pin in the box, or a bad connection. If the power does leave the fuse box to the switch, there has to be a break in the wiring at some point preventing the power from reaching the switch.

I cut a portion of my schematic for you to compare to what you have. See if it is the same. If it is and the power leaves the fuse box but is lost at some point between the box and the switch, the only thing you can do is start tracing that wire and determine where it is broken.

Here are a few links you may find helpful. I'm adding them just in case, but based on what you have already done, I have a feeling you won't need them.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

_________________

Let me know if any of this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Welcome back:
Let me know what you find. If the fuse is good and lights on both sides, we have an open circuit between the fuse box and the switch.

I just doubled checked on another schematic and the fuses are correct that I said, but I found one thing of interest. There is a splice to power the switch. Take a look at the schematic I added. I just cut out the section I am referring to. You may want to also check that splice to make sure it isn't corroded or damaged. That will cause the issue for sure.

Let me know.

Joe

Welcome back:
I highlighted the white/pink wire so you could easily see what I was talking about. That's why it looks yellow.

I attached the entire schematic for you, I had to break it into a few pictures because of its size. The pictures are in order and I overlapped them so you could follow from one to the next.

Let me know if this helps.

Joe

Ha! Good point. You should try working on a 2019. The more technology, the crazier things get.

When you get to it, let me know what you find.

Take care,
Joe