Install new head and now I have valve noise

I called the company who rebuilt the head and they sending me four new tappets, couldn't get them to send eight. In the mean time I removed all the tappets, cleaned and reinstalled and still have same tick tick noise. I'm a try and upload video, tell me your thoughts.

I couldn't wait, I pulled all 8 tappets from the old head, disassembled, cleaned and used all to replace the ones that came in the new head. Started car and noise went away in about two minutes, after they pumped up with oil. So it is definitely a bad tappet or a few. How do I tell which one is failed or I guess I just write all 8 off and get all new ones?

Well I was trying to stethoscope through the valve cover but it didn't work to well, can't run it with cover off due to three foot oil stream shooting strait up. I'm on the next problem, my temperature gauge stays cold. Going to check sending unit tomorrow. The gauge works better after I flushed the heater core, it came up bout a 1/4 inch on the gauge when cars hot. Needle still not in the middle though. And the fan never comes on accept when car is first started. So I'll be in the shop tomorrow trying to figure that out. I also have a brake light in dash staying lit. So, one problem solved and a few more to go.

I have no more valve-train noise at this point. What I do have is a bad PCM not controlling the cooling fan as it should, I've checked both relays high and low fan and checked the fan, only thing left is the PCM. I am not getting signal to the relay to switch from the PCM. So I have a PCM on order. The low speed fan comes on when ac is turned on but will not actuate otherwise. Really confusing to explain but I believe I have narrowed it down. Thanks for all the help

Ya, I was looking at that option here but didn't find one, I thought would work great. They all had mixed reviews, some people said works great they just don't last. Others said they didn't last at all. I had trouble finding one with an A/C bypass also, I'd need 2 relay one, one to run low speed for engine heat and one to run high fan when A/C is on.

Yes, I have jumped both high and low and both work. Pin 31 for high speed never becomes grounded. Even when AC is switched on. Pin 35 stays grounded all the time keeping the relay open and not allowing power to get to the yellow wire for low speed. When the AC is kicked on pin 35 drops ground and thus operating low speed fan. If I do nothing the car temperature gauge reaches way past middle range and surpasses the "A" in "normal" where as if I jump low speed fan the temperature stays right in the middle between r and m.

So I replaced the temperature sending unit, the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor had a resistance of over 2k ohms while car was hot. As my Chilton sucks and tells me to go to the dealer to diagnose a bad temp sensor I assume it is good, partly because it's new and partly because the car idles down when the temperature gauge starts to indicate the car is warm, meaning the PCM is getting a signal from that sensor.

The sending unit and the temperature sensor are both new.
*Correction of the above.

Nope, I have an obd2 scanner but this is obd1.

Ya maybe, I do own and operate two of these cars now. My youngest car at this point is a 2008.