Ignition key will not unlock - stuck?

The only thing I can think of is either the tumbler or there is a lever that goes from the tumbler to the ignition switch. Try to lube the tumbler to see if that helps. They make a special graphite grease for key cylinders. Most parts stores will have it. Try that first if not here are instructions on how to replace the ignition key tumbler in the diagrams below. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

Is it the park lock solenoid that is you hear clicking? Basically, can you shift it out of park without depressing the brake before the click is heard?

That is low mileage. Don't laugh but when this happens, pump the brakes a couple times. The park lock solenoid is actuated by the brake light switch. Something could be sticking there.

Can you get a recording of this noise? Does it sound like it is coming from the front?

Also, just confirm what 4WD system you have. Do you have full time 4 wheel drive? If so, I suspect your friend may have not connected something completely.

Let's start with this info and a recording if possible. Thanks

Hi,

The code is related to a fuel delivery issue, so that doesn't have anything to do with what you described.

When you say you can't place it in park, I need to know if you mean the shifter or when it is placed in park if the vehicle continues to roll as if it isn't in park. Also, if that is the case, I suspect the axle that was installed is lose and no longer attached. Was it a front or rear axle?

Let me know.
Joe

Jeff, is that clicking inside or outside the vehicle? If it's outside, see if the newly installed axle is turning with the vehicle staying in place.

I have a feeling the axle isn't fully engaged.

Sorry, I have no idea why I said Jeff. Likely, I saw Jeep in your user name and thought it was Jeff. Have you made any progress?

Joe

That is a touching subject. What all did they do in the recall just the switch? Then it was successfully repaired at that point. If the system failed after then it did just that. Tough to take I hear you, but unfortunately it happens.

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

Yes and no. Yes in that you can buy the key and cylinder so the key will turn the cylinder. And no in that the key is not the real issue. The BCMs security system has to be programmed to read whichever key you have, that is not something that the average DIYer can do.

Starting with the earliest system VATS with the resistor pellet - The key cut itself just allows the cylinder to rotate. The pellet in the key creates a specific voltage drop that tells the SKIM that "yep this is the correct key, go ahead and turn on the fuel and ignition"

The earlier transponder systems use a piece in the key that is very similar to the security tags in stores, The key goes into the ignition and the SKIM sends out pulses to read that security tag. If it matches the information the module has stored, the ECM receives a unique coded string of pulses that tells it that you have the correct key and it can start.

The current systems are even more elaborate. They use both passive and active coding in the fobs. This is what allows you to have the push button start and remote operations.

These systems also allow for different key coding in the security. So you could have one key that allows everything in the car to operate and sets the various items to that persons preferences, another as a valet key that only allows specific items to operate and even something like a teenager key, that restricts the power output and drive times and activates the navigation to record where the vehicle goes.

All of them require the SKIM/BCM to be programmed to the particular key(s) used.