Ignition coil module suspected faulty, can I switch modules around?

Tiny
STEVE W.
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Never seen it and considering there is nothing electronic in that area there is no way for it to cause an issue with the electronics. The only difference between the vacuum unit and the electronic is that one uses a stepper motor to open and close the pintle instead of vacuum.
The stepper motor is fully enclosed inside the grounded motor housing on the top of the valve. The engine it was most often used on had the same EGR valve your car has.
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Thursday, May 23rd, 2024 AT 4:11 PM
Tiny
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At this moment, gathering all the sources I can to define what problem, if any, a Kleen Screen poses to my Buick. Of two sources-- Standard and Dorman-- I got a very general, if not evasive, answer. Of course, you are familiar with this process, since many aftermarket OEMs seem to have no interest in being completely transparent.
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Thursday, May 23rd, 2024 AT 10:13 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Pretty much every OEM will tell you that using any part they don't provide is bad and aftermarket suppliers will tell you that their parts are better than OEM. Then there are parts like these gaskets. The OE doesn't like them because they demonstrate there is a problem with their product. The supplier on the other hand tosses them out there with more or less a "use at your own risk" attitude. Thing is that I've installed a few hundred of them after cleaning carbon out. The most common issue? The engine is still making carbon from oil use and the screen plugs up first. Then you take it out, clean it and put it back in, or more commonly you just replace it. I've even run across folks who had the same though but didn't know they were sold, those took 2 gaskets and some stainless mesh and made a sandwich gasket. Have yet to see a single problem and most of those vehicles are now off the road after NY salt ate them. But they went a lot of miles after the repair.
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Friday, May 24th, 2024 AT 7:10 AM
Tiny
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Someday, perhaps the Salt Gods in New York and across the snowbelt will realize consumers actually will buy their next car based on corrosion resistance and prospective lifespan. Much as I find lacking in the SE US (aka South Carolina), the weather does not require salt, since it hardly ever freezes the roads long enough for measures like that.

Your experience with a "few hundred" of the Kleen Screen-- with no returns-- is enough for me. As a learn-by-doing DIY, I try to gather all reputable information I can, first, with shop experience given higher priority than what marketing tells its technical representatives to say.
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Friday, May 24th, 2024 AT 8:01 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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When I hired for the shop, I always looked at actual experience over ASE or other paperwork for the same reason. There are a lot of ASE certified folks just out of school who can do the job, but there are also some who learned how to take the tests but cannot really handle the real-world application of the material. I have friends down south and out west and I keep threatening them that I'll bring a few salt belt cars to their shops so they can learn the fun of dealing with real rust, not the piddly orange coating you can wipe off with a finger.
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Friday, May 24th, 2024 AT 11:25 PM
Tiny
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We might think-- with all the progress in synthetic structural materials (carbon-fiber, etc.), Auto OEMs would introduce a vehicle with at least a basic framework of non-ferrous materials. Yet, even steel can be made impervious to rust-- Cor-Ten steel was designed decades ago for "self-healing", developing an anti-rust layer which eliminates the need for painting exposed steel. If Cor-Ten can be used for bridges, why not autobody frames and critical body panels?
Another area which urgently needs attention is the utter ruin of automotive electronics and electrical components when exposed to water. In the South, where flooding of homes and cars is almost a way of life (with people still building uninsurable homes on the beaches), every heavy rain creates flood pools in the roadway whose depth is unknown to drivers. Rather than turn around, too many impatient drivers plunge ahead, one of the factors driving up the cost of auto insurance.
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Saturday, May 25th, 2024 AT 7:38 PM
Tiny
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Steve, I completed the EGR operation, reaming out the EGR passages and valve, then running the engine without the EGR valve to allow debris to clear. To my surprise, there was no soot residue over the top of the engine bay, so there may not have been much in the passages, after all.

As you indicated, I ran the engine for a minute or so. The engine ran roughly-- as expected-- and the "Check Engine" light began to flash. At that point, I shut down, installed the EGR valve, and restarted the engine, which almost purred when accelerated, with no roughness.

As a precaution, overnight, I soaked the EGR valve in WD40 by turning it upside down and filling the Pintle area. By the following afternoon, the EGR valve assembly interior was completely clean of black residue.
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Friday, May 31st, 2024 AT 6:03 PM
Tiny
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Plan to check for the P0401 code this weekend, after clearing the previous codes, first. Hopefully, the EGR operation worked.
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Friday, May 31st, 2024 AT 11:11 PM
Tiny
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After clearing the codes from the ECM, I drove about ten miles, and during most of that period, the "Check Engine Light" was dark. Unfortunately, the MIL returned shortly after that, with the same P0401 code.
I am sure I reamed the EGR valve and EGR passages thoroughly. Soaking the EGR valve overnight in WD40 should have freed the pintle mechanism, so this begins phase 2 of determining what else could be wrong.
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Sunday, June 2nd, 2024 AT 12:05 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Since you have a different code than what we started with I'm going to have you ask that as a new question, just to keep our search system happy. Please mention that the 401 came back and the passages have been cleaned out.
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Sunday, June 2nd, 2024 AT 4:30 AM

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