Ignition

I'm sitting in the garage, waiting to help with solutions!

The Medic

Do you have a temporary jumper wire from the Positive side of the battery to the positive side of the coil?

I have to camp out with the grand-monsters starting about 5PM, I'll be back hopefully early afternoon on Sunday.

I'm guessing you still have the points system in your distributor.

If we need to get into that we will when I return. It's not all that hard, you just got to understand it a little! Even the old points may work for now just to get spark to get you motivated.

Keep us posted

The Medic

Although my pic is from my '77, you should get the idea! I try to make my pics simple, The seem to get all crammed and the colored stuff don't show up well. I try to put too much info in them.

Let's remove that temporary jumper we went from the battery to the coil with. If your new key switch is hooked up right we will be relying on it to power the coil.

So,

With the key "on", what is the voltage at the positive side of the coil?

Is there voltage at all?

I need to know this stuff!

The Medic

Look on top of driver's front tire
Under fuel tank nearest the center of the Jeep
Under driver's seat
Between the driver's seat and Jeep's side
On the rear fender wells

Months before my Dad passed on, my Mama told me that he had to have nerve testing done the next day at the hospital.

I told her it might save a lot of time and money if she could have the doctor check his "last nerve" first.

That was the one my Dad always said we were always "on" as the three of us kids were growing up.

I have been looking for a decent diagram for the switch, I figure if I cannot read them, you probably cannot either. I will keep looking, you keep looking for the switch too!

The Medic

I am guessing that was 11.49 with the key "on", the jumper disconnected.

Okay,

Lets take the distributor cap off and the rotor button off. There may or may not be a cover over the points (like a plate covering the whole bottom half of the inside of the distributor)

Take me a really good picture of your point system!

Below, my 1946 distributor (really basic)

1st Pic) Mine has a cover below the rotor button

2nd Pic) This is my point system prior to me upgrading to a drop in electronic ignition (we can explore that option after we get you running)

I'll be using your excellent pic to explain how we will mess with the points to get some positive results! Send pic soon!

The Medic

Good pictures!

Everything looks new!

Take the rotor button off and one more straight down shot!

Switch?

One of these will not work?

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web/PartSearchCmd?storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&langId=-1&pageId=partTypeList&actionSrc=Form&searchTerm=ignition+switch

Your turn,

The Medic

Got something to work with now!

Notice you have a "hex" on your distributor shaft (hence, 6 cylinder) (mine has a square, 4 cylinder)

That hex's pointy parts lift the points up off of the anvil as the distributor rotates. When the points are closed, the points arm will be in one of the six flats.

Without putting your grubby little fingers in there and messing with nothing yet! Lol!

With the points closed and in the fully flat hex position

(Key Off, if you tension the belt with one hand, you may be able to move a pulley with the other hand and move the engine slightly to get it there)

Now that it is there, are the points fully closed, there is no teeny tiny gap at all? Do they touch fully? (No touchy the points yet!)

We'll worry about adjusting them correctly in a bit.

No choke needed to achieve spark!

Not yet! (Sentence below) I have a test coming up after you respond with the point gap information.

We will be needing 12V to the positive side of the coil, the negative side of the coil will go to the distributor.

Fully closed or slightly open is the big question now.

You got me till about 11:30 PM EST

The Medic

Check this.

Do this.

Return with results

We will then proceed with checking spark (my way) and then to adjusting the point gap correctly.

Should you need to move the engine.
Key off.
Use a wrench as I show in the third picture.
If you need to move it more than a little bit, try to always move it in the direction it normally turns.

Your turn,

The Medic