SPONSORED LINKS

My engine keeps stalling while driving?

Tiny
MYSTERYBLACK
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 NISSAN SENTRA
  • 1.6L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 300,000 MILES
Two week ago my car started to sputter and acted like it was going to shut off. I made it home and took off the battery cable and it quit running which indicates it is an alternator problem. I took the alternator out and got it tested and it was a bad alternator. I went down got a brand new alternator put it on and drove around for a few hours, went home turn car off and the car would not start back up, which indicates it is the battery. Got the battery tested and found out I had a bad battery. Bought a refurbished battery and put it on and everything worked for a few day then my car started to sputter again and acted like it was going to shut off again. Went home turned the car off and tried to start again and it would not which indicates is a battery problem again. I went and got the battery tested and the battery was dead. This time I purchased a brand new battery and it worked for about three days then it shut off on me. I had to get a jump and got home. Car shut off as I pulled up to my house. I then figured I will get another alternator because the new one is probably a bad alternator. So today I got the alternator replaced with another new one and put it on. I had to get a jump due to battery was dead. Got a jump, it ran for a few minutes and then it started to sputter again. Then it shut off. Would not start after that, got another jump right after and sputtered again. Mind you that all my dash lights and inside lights would not come on. Not even the radio. But as soon as I turned my headlights on then my car shut off again. I have brand new battery terminals and all my connections to my alternator and battery are good connections. I do not know why my car is having these issues but hope you know what my problem is.
SPONSORED LINKS
Monday, August 13th, 2018 AT 7:22 PM

28 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,945 POSTS
The first thing is to not remove a battery cable with the engine running. That was a "test" done many years ago by uneducated mechanics who did not understand how these simple systems worked. Those cars had breaker point ignition systems and no computers to destroy. It will not be long before you are smarter than they ever were.
lets check out this guide to see if we can fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Let me know what you find for test results.
SPONSORED LINKS
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
-1
Monday, August 13th, 2018 AT 8:59 PM
Tiny
MYSTERYBLACK
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
First of all. Before I bought the first alternator I removed the battery cables while started. I did not remove them since my last two new alternators. So yes I understand if I messed the charging system up after removing the cables on my old alternator. The bad one. After that I bought a new one. I did not remove the cables then. A few days later my first battery had a dead cell. I went and bought a new battery. Then a few days later that battery went bad. So I got another one under warranty and a few days later the car went dead again. So I pulled the new alternator out and got it tested and it was bad so I replaced the new alternator with another one under warranty and this time every light inside my car did not work. Not did the radio. Before I replaced the last alternator it did work. But now it does not. So after I start the car and let it run a couple minutes then it slowly looses power. When I rev up the engine then it does not rev to its fullest potential. Instead it sputters out like it is about to shut off. When I turn the headlights on then it shuts off. The battery is fully charged and the alternator is brand new. I did not unhook the cables while the car was running except when I replaced the first alternator. Before the last two I had.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, August 14th, 2018 AT 9:00 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,945 POSTS
Sounds like you hit every piece of bad luck out there. We do run into defective rebuilt generators every once in a while, but you got a lifetime supply already. Before you get all wrapped around the axle looking for an elusive cause, start by suspecting multiple blown fuses. That happens real commonly when reconnecting the battery, from the current surges, and with all you have gone through already, the battery has been reconnected multiple times. If you find a blown fuse, just replace it. Do not obsess over what could be wrong in that circuit. Most likely nothing is wrong.

The next step is to do the full-load output current test. That will tell us what your generator is capable of developing, and the ripple voltage. If output current is close to your generator's maximum rating, and ripple voltage is low, the generator is okay and we need to look at other potential causes.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, August 15th, 2018 AT 10:56 PM
Tiny
POOLMAN88
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
  • 1995 NISSAN SENTRA
  • 170,000 MILES
Hi I have a 1995 nissan sentra gle with a 1-6. Car starts and runs great. But you can only drive about 20 miles. The car then dies. If you let it sit for a half hour or so. It will go another 20 miles.I have changed the plugs and cap and rotor.I this really baffels me
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 7th, 2021 AT 1:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
When it stalled and could not be started, you need to find out what is missing.

Check out the following link.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start
SPONSORED LINKS
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 7th, 2021 AT 1:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
POOLMAN88
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Thankyou the only thing I have not tried is disconecting the sencors and disconecting the exaust. When the rain stops I will give it a shot
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 7th, 2021 AT 1:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
POOLMAN88
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Well I disconnected the exhaust and one sensor at a time. Still did not help.I bought a new distributor. And still the same problem. Car ran great at a idle for 20 minutes than died. Any other ideas still no check engine light
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 7th, 2021 AT 1:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
When it could not start, did you find out what is missing?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 7th, 2021 AT 1:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
POOLMAN88
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Just tested all the sensors. All came up good.I am starting to think the new distributor could have fried. Why am I going through distributors. Compression is 150 all cylinders.55 lbs fuel pressure spark in all cylinders and all the sensors test good, car is running worst idels rough at 200 rpm for about a minute than dies.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 7th, 2021 AT 1:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Did you test if it is spark that is missing or is it fuel that was not present when it could not start?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 7th, 2021 AT 1:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FIXITMR
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,990 POSTS
  • 1994 NISSAN SENTRA
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 155,000 MILES
Car quit on me for only time since bought. Killed battey trying to restart. Towed home. Charged battery and tried again. It started and idled but touch the gas and it coughs/dies immediately! Fuel comes out sttrong from filter. Obviously has spark if idles. Tried spraying/adding extra gas still stalls. Weird! Any ideas?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 7th, 2021 AT 1:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
Check the throttle position sensor and idle air control valve
SPONSORED LINKS
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 7th, 2021 AT 1:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FIXITMR
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,990 POSTS
Not likely. Symptoms dont indicate a problem in those parts in my experience. Thanks
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 7th, 2021 AT 1:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
Obviously has something to do with an intermittant spark foul. Check cam sensor, crank/hall effect sensor
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 7th, 2021 AT 1:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
THISCAR
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1994 NISSAN SENTRA
  • 1.6L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 180,000 MILES
This car is running very well, now. I have recently had new spark plugs put in, changed the air filter, new ECT. And as I said, starts easily and runs very well until it's completely warmed up.

At that point, still running well, the car stalls at stops. Take my foot off the gas, brake put in the clutch and the engine has stopped. Starts right back up as soon as I turn the ignition.

I am trying to anticipate what this might be. I have so little time and funds available. Took it to one shop and according to mechanic there the IAC, MAF, throttle position sensor are all working well. I do not know if he checked the EGR valve. He thought the valves might be out of adjustment, which he says he doesn't do.

I talked to the new shop who said if it was the valves, it would be making all kinds of noises which is not happening. So, I'm having him look at it on Thursday, but in the meantime, I'm truly jumpy. Any thoughts you might have on what I can anticipate as to what's happening?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 7th, 2021 AT 1:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
94 TRANSAM
  • MECHANIC
  • 680 POSTS
Hi and thank you for using 2CaPros. Lets see what we can do.

It all sounds on track, the only recommendation I would add that it may be is loss of fuel pressure. I would test that. If it is low fuel pressure it could be a weak fuel pump, a bad fuel regulator or a plugged fuel filter.
It could also be a bad ignition module or coil. These are know for going into thermal runaway when they start to fail. When they get hot they build up internal resistance and the voltage drops.
I would check those as well. Good luck and let us know how things turn out. Feel free to come back if you have anymore questions.

Rich
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 7th, 2021 AT 1:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
THISCAR
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Hey Rich. This has been such a journey and not in a good way. I have not had a chance to follow up on your suggestions (though they sound reasonable) because the shops I've gone to seem to be out of their depth. Long story there but a car this old (and decrepit-looking) seems to really throw them.

Here's a second question before I go to Plan B. What about the spark plug wires? I did not have those replaced when I got new spark plugs. I don't think they've ever been replaced. Would faulty wires cause the kind of problems I've been seeing? What do you think?

I should say, you guys are the most responsive of anyone I've had the opportunity to contact, so thanks in advance.

Norene
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 7th, 2021 AT 1:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
94 TRANSAM
  • MECHANIC
  • 680 POSTS
Yes it could also be thermal runaway with plug wires. The resistance increases over time with plug wires and heat also effects that so if they have never been changed they could be high resistance and when they get hot it goes even higher to the point of weak spark. This is why you have to change them at all. Even if it doesn't cure it I would suggest replacing them though it may fix it. That your issue start when it warms up tells me something is likely going thermal.

Rich.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 7th, 2021 AT 1:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BIGINAMERICA
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1993 NISSAN SENTRA
  • 163,000 MILES
When I start my 1993 Nissan Sentra it dies within a few seconds. First I can ramp up the rpm with the gas pedal, while hitting the clutch, but within a few seconds the car dies despite hitting the gas pedal, rpms go continuously down until the car dies. After it has died the dashboard shows the typical signs (lit check engine light, battery, .) That would light up before I would start the car. The car is currently parked on a steep uphill slope, thus getting away from there will be tricky without the engine. I have tried the starting procedure about 8 times, always with the same result. The gasoline was low so I checked that and filled 1 gal. Into the tank (that's not it, unfortunately). The car has 163000 miles and has been running really well in the past. I have notice higher fuel consumption lately (320 miles per tank vs. Usually 400), but it coincided with the hot weather (and my use of the a/c), so I did not think it had anything to do with it.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 7th, 2021 AT 1:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,913 POSTS
I agree with the poor fuel mileage being the result of the AC. As far as the no start, I feel it has to do with the amount of fuel in the tank. If you are on a steep hill, the fuel pump may not be able to get the fuel even though you put a gallon in it. What I want you to do is see if the car will start with starting fluid. If it runs for a couple seconds, then fuel is the issue. It is most likely what I said, too low in the tank. However, it could be a bad fuel pump. Try what I said and let me know what you find.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 7th, 2021 AT 1:13 PM (Merged)

Please login or register to post a reply.

Related Engine Stall While Driving Content

Code Read Retrieval/Clear
VIDEO
Code Read Retrieval/Clear
Instructional repair video
Engine Stalls While Driving
GUIDE
Engine Stalls While Driving
An engine that stalls while driving and then starts back up again, either immediately or after a short time is different from an engine that just wont start or if the...
VIEW MORE

Sponsored links