Checked for voltage at ignition coil and distributor: both checked out fine but no spark at plugs. I ran the troubleshooting on the ignitor inside of the distributor cap and it looked as though it was faulty. I also checked for gas on the plugs after cranking it over to check and make sure I did not have a faulty pump. I bought new distr. Cap, rotor, and ignitor (aka ICU or ICM) and the problem was solved. Ignitor runs about 110 new (at Napa) for those who care to hear (150 for all).
If the run switch is faulty, I know the trick to cure that from a couple months ago. Start the car but let the key back in-between the run and start position and it should stay running as long as you hold it there. You can do this by listening for the starter to turn off. If you have a standard, good luck cuz it requires one hand at the ignition to drive.
Monday, February 19th, 2007 AT 9:06 PM