Check engine light

While driving on the highway after stopping to get gas
futher up the highway the check engine light started to flash
the car sputter and lost compression
we stopped checked everything oil fluids all looked good waited for 5 mins started on the way againg but the light keeps flashing and seem to loose compression on the hill?

After numerous repairs done by Great Bear my check engine light returns after repairs.
1-Changed entire EVAP components- purge value-egr value-canister filter-auxiliary filter-evap value valve set.
2-Map sensor
3-Throttle body assembly
4-Clutch pressure switch
The check engine light was reset by Honda while attempting to check car and no repairs done told to return my car back to the garage that did the repairs (Great Bear). And within half hour after Honda reset the check engine light, I took my car to a local repair shop for inspection, it passed.
The check engine light returned about half hour later of driving. What going on? What codes you asked? They tell me the emission and all the codes from each repair and then some more different codes. This car has only 34000 miles in mint condition. Honda refuse to help me because I had the work done, not by Honda. I was going to pay to have the work done over but all they did was keep my car for five days and told me to take my car back. I will pick up a code reader and get back to you.

The code that came up is P1457.

I waited, still no answer to my question.
Anyway the problem was the three hoses connected to the evap canister, one was opened. Capped it off problem solved.

The Check Engine Light was specifying that I needed a new EGR valve. After replacing the valve myself, do I need to have the code reset by the dealer or repair shop to turn the warning light off?

My check engine light came on last year and Honda ended up replacing the catalytic converter under warranty. Then it came on again about a month ago and my research indicated it could be another emissions systems component, the EGR valve. I am wondering what else it could be and if it could even be that I need a new muffler?

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Scott Houran

2006 Honda accord V6s no longer have an EGR valve they use a Variable valve timing module that is in the place of an EGR valve. Take your car to Autozone and/or Kragen have them run the ODB-II diagnostic tool on your vehicle to pinpoint and rule what itcan't be.
Oh, Yea, that V-TEC soleniod can go bad too. You'll find out what is actually wrong when you take it to get it diag. More than likely it is the O2 sensors that went bad in this case I think there are 4 of them in your car one on each side of the engine where the exhaust manifold are and two more under your car going from each downpipe to the each of the catalytic converters for each corresponding side of your car.

I have a 2000 Accord V6 not a 2006 and I am positive it does have an EGR valve. There are several posts on the net stating that a bad EGR valve can cause the check engine light to come on in this car.

Engine Performance problem
2000 Honda Accord 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 200k miles

Dear 2Carpros,
I have a little situation here, my car when I start in the morning it is fine and I start to drive on a cruzing speed 80K/h, as soon as the car reaches the normal temperature the Engine lights get on and the gear shifting becomes a nightmare.
Then I have to turn of the car and turn on again and the light is gone. I cannot dirve the car at a low RPM below 2100. The second thing I do to avoid it is, I dont keep a constant rpm (press and release) so than the car engine light does not get on.

But as soon as I am at low rpm and constant rpm, the car will give me a jerk and it goes to check engine light.
The gear will only work I think 1, 2, 3 and while shifting it gives a jerk only when the check engine light is on.

About six weeks ago I had my timing belt service. About two weeks ago I left my gas cap off when I filled up. The Check Engine light came on so my mechanic got a new cap for me and reset the light.

A couple days later, it came back on. I notice when I filled up with gas that the metal piece with the metal flap over the gas tank was missing and has been ever since I visited my mechanic.

At first I didn't notice a performance difference, but now I'm noticing the car is idling really low whenever I push the clutch in. Is this because of the missing metal piece in the gas tank, or is there something else afoot? I'm a bit wary of my current mechanic.

The Check Engine codes are P1166 and P 1167.

Check engine light is on and the srs light aslo