Engine swap, what emissions do you need to remove to make a Fuel Injected engine 22R-E work?

Hi,

Nothing needs to be removed from the engine. The emission controls will still be controlled by the ECM based on the vehicle's original sensors.

As far as emissions, they actually started using them in the 1960s, 1967 to be exact. They considered the addition of a PCV valve the start. LOL

Let me know if you have other questions or if there is anything I can do to help.

Joe

Hi,

The ECM is an engine control module. Based on the idea that it runs good cold and then too rich,

You indicated the vehicle now has a carb. That isn't what I expected even in 1987. It should have an electric fuel pump in the tank and a vacuum-operated fuel pressure regulator. Does it still have these things?

Also, does the temperature gauge work properly?

Let me know.

Joe

Also, helping you means a lot to me, so let me know as much as you can. Most importantly, thank you for your military service. I have a lot of respect for you and never met you.

The electric fuel pump could be causing issues. If the pressure is too high, the needle and seat in the carb can cause it to receive too much fuel and run extremely rich or even flood.

Is it possible for you to take a few pics of the carb, pump, or anything you think may help me? Looking through manuals is very limited and offers different set-ups.

If you look at the pic below, you'll see what I mean. It shows an electric fuel pump in the fuel tank, a pressure regulator, and fuel injection. I have to try and figure out how things have been changed.

Let me know.

Take care and you are very welcome for the "kind words". I wish there were more just like you. Take care of yourself.

Joe

Hi,

Do you know if the mechanical fuel pump works or is fuel provided by the electric pump? The float issue was with the old carb, correct? I ask because if the float isn't working properly, it can allow too much fuel to enter the carb and lead to a rich mixture.

Let me know.

Joe

Since the problem starts when it gets warm, have you checked to make sure the choke is fully opening?

I copied your pic above and highlighted the choke.

Let me know. Also, let me know if all vacuum hoses are going to the carb. It may have a vacuum choke pull-off.

I'm sorry if I'm making this difficult. Not being there makes it a lot harder. Plus, I have multiple years to consider. Hang in there. LOL

Joe

Hi,

Yes, the ECM (ECU) can be checked by testing pin output. I attached the directions below for how it's done.

Additionally, I went to a 1983 vehicle that came originally with the carburetor. There is a vacuum pull-off for the choke. If it is staying shut or nearly shut after warm-up, it can be causing the issue. By chance, has the choke's operation ever been inspected? Larry, I feel it is related to the carb not being set up properly. The ECU on this vehicle shouldn't affect the carburetor. The only thing I can think of that makes sense is the choke isn't opening properly or it is going closed or nearly closed after the engine warms up. The ECU wouldn't have controlled that in a 1983. Instead, it would have been controlled by the choke linkage and engine vacuum.

If you look below, I provided the pin-out test for the ECU on your truck (1987). Take a look through it and let me know if you have questions or if I can help in any way.

I may be wrong, I have before and will be again, but I don't see this as an electrical issue.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below Note: The test below is for ECU for a 1987 22RE engine. If your vehicle originally had something different, let me know. Also, pic 1 shows the choke pull-off vacuum hose. That hose should have an intake vacuum at all times with the engine running. Please confirm that for me.

Hi,

All things in the pics are related to the intake and injection system. As far as the ECU, I attached a pic below showing it.

If I recall, it is in the vehicle behind the kick panel.

Have you been able to check the choke assembly when it is warm?

Joe

Hi,

Yes, the ECU will be on the passenger side. As far as the fuel tank is concerned, what did they install?

As far as the choke, it will either be open or closed. When the engine is warm, it should be open. Let me know if that makes sense or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

Hi,

No problem whatsoever. If you look below, I circled the choke. In the picture, it is closed. When the engine is warm, it will turn 90 degrees to fully open.

As far as the tank is concerned, I believe the pump setup is different. I looked up the part numbers for both years and they are different. Also, looking at the two side by side, they are different. If possible, ask what will cause the difference. Also, if the person helping you is creative, there is likely a way to make it work.

Let me know and remember, you can ask as many questions as you want.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.

Hi Larry,

I watched both videos. Do me a favor. I paused the video and made a copy of it. I attached it below. Watch the video and tell me if I am seeing light, a spark arcing, or something leaking.

Let me know.

Joe