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Headlights will not turn on

Tiny
STEVESWAB
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 HONDA ODYSSEY
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 260,000 MILES
Hi,
I saw that my headlights wouldn't turn on when I was flipping the switch on the arm to the left of the steering wheel.
I checked all the fuses, they all looked intact.
I thought it would be strange for both headlights to go out at the same time, so I've put that to the side as a possibility for now.
So, I'm guessing that the switch on the arm is busted (or the wiring is shorted somewhere).
I tried to remove the steering column cover so that I can switch out the arm, but I've been having trouble getting the bottom cover off.
I removed the three screws on the bottom of the cover, and split open the two pieces of the cover.
I then removed the top piece. When trying to pull out the bottom piece, it seems to be getting caught on the steering wheel adjustment lever. I've started unclipping the "plastic under-dash"(if that's what it's called), but I still can't get the bottom of the cover off.
Any ideas on how I can get the bottom of the cover off so that I can replace the arm?

Also, could there be another probable source for the headlight issue?
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Tuesday, April 2nd, 2019 AT 5:43 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello,

I have included all the information that you requested in the diagrams down below. There I have included directions on how to remove the steering column cover and how to test the combination switch to make sure it is working properly. To do this though you will need to have a multi-meter set in the Ohms setting to test for continuity. If you are unfamiliar with how to use a multi-meter then I have included a link down below for you to go to.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Please go through this guide and do the tests on the combination switch and get back to us with what you find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Tuesday, April 2nd, 2019 AT 6:08 PM
Tiny
STEVESWAB
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Hi Alex, thanks for the link. I don't see any diagrams or directions attached to your post? Am I looking in the wrong place?

Thanks,
Steven
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Tuesday, April 2nd, 2019 AT 6:21 PM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello again,

I'm sorry, my bad. I get so busy sometimes I forget to include them. They will be attached to the diagrams down below.

Thanks,
Alex
2CaerPros
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Tuesday, April 2nd, 2019 AT 7:05 PM
Tiny
STEVESWAB
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
No worries, I appreciate the help!
Could you also add the instructions on how to remove the steering column cover?
I seem to get stuck on dumb little things that should be easy to do.
Thanks,
Steven
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Tuesday, April 2nd, 2019 AT 7:24 PM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello again,

My reference materials all have what I already included. They really don't give specifics on how to remove it, they just say to remove it.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 12:52 AM
Tiny
STEVESWAB
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Alright, so I managed to attach a replacement switch and it didn't fix anything, so I reattached the original.
So I went out and bought a multimeter and did some tests.
I had the battery hooked up when I did the tests, so hopefully that's what you're supposed to do (But maybe you don't need it on when testing for continuity?).
I tested each fuse in the primary under-hood fuse box individually, and they all came back as good (a reading of 0.00).
I assumed that you put one of the leads on one fuse and the other on the far end of the loop (or maybe you're supposed to progress through each fuse in order?).

In any case, I went through the diagram and here's what I found:
Headlight Switch
off - open loop
running lights - good
Low - open loop
High - good from 8->12 OL 2->12
passing switch 3->12 (not sure what a passing switch is, but put one lead on 3, the other on 12) - good
Turn Signal Switch:
Left - 4->12 - got a reading of.371 so I'm not sure what that means.
Right - No fuse in 10. According to owner's manual, it's not used.

Don't have fog lights, so didn't test it.

So, should I try replacing fuses 1, 2 and 4? Or is there something else going on here?
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Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 9:03 PM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello again,

If you got OL on the low beam headlight continuity test(that is testing by backpinning the cavities of the connector with the multimeter set in Ohm's setting than the switch is bad and needs to be replaced.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Thursday, April 4th, 2019 AT 1:12 AM

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