Engine starts but does not stay running

Hi,

It sounds like you are losing the crankshaft position signal. Have you checked that? Also, after it stalls, are you able to restart it?

Take a look through this link and let me know if it seems to mirror what you are experiencing:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

If you do, I have attached the directions for replacing it below. The directions are specific to your vehicle.

If you have a live data scan tool, check to see if the RPM signal is lost when it won't start.

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below.

Hi,

There are other things that can cause problems. However, we need to determine if the no start is the result of a loss of spark or fuel to the engine.

When it won't start, see if it does when using starting fluid and then stall. If it does, then we know it is a fuel-related issue. IF it makes no difference, then it is likely ignition related. At that point, check if the spark plugs are getting spark. Here is a link showing how that is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Let me know

Joe

Hi,

If that is the case, then we need to first check two relays, the EFI relay and the Circuit Open relay. Here is how it works:

Refer to the pic below to see the components I mention.

When the engine is cranked, current flows from the terminal ST of the ignition switch to the starter relay coil. The starter relay switches on and the current flows to coil L1 of the circuit opening relay. As a result, the circuit opening relay switches on, power is supplied to the fuel pump, and the fuel pump operates to prime. When the STA signal and NE signal are input to the ECM, Tr is turned "on", current flows to coil L2 of the circuit opening relay, the relay switches on and the fuel pump operates. While the NE signal is generated (engine running), the ECM keeps Tr "on" (circuit opening relay "on") and the fuel pump keeps operating.

That may sound confusing, but it is really straightforward. So, the first things I want you to check are the two relays I mentioned.

Pic 1 below shows the circuit. Pic 2 shows the location of the circuit opening relay. Pic 3 shows the EFI relay and the starter relay. If there are no issues with the starter function, it should be fine, but I added it in case.

Here is what to do: Locate the relays and switch them with another relay in the box having the same part number. If there isn't one, here is a link that explains how to test one.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Let me know what you find.

Joe

See pics below.

Hi,

You are very welcome. Let me know what you find. I'm hoping it is something simple.

Take care,

Joe

Hi,

No problem. That leads us to either no fuel injector pulse to get the fuel into the engine or no spark. Did you confirm that the spark plugs are getting spark?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-for-ignition-spark

Also, if possible, record it cranking and upload it for me to hear. I want to hear what it is doing to confirm it isn't something completely different.

Let me know. Hang in there. We'll get it running.

Take care,

Joe

Hi,

I'm questioning the injector pulse as well as if you lose spark when you return the key from start to run.

Do me a favor. Each one of the injectors will have two wires. One will be black, and the second wire will be a different color. See pic below.

When the key is in the run or start position, the black wires at each injector should have 12v. Check that first. If that checks good, at the ignition coil there will also be a black wire that should have 12v under the same conditions. This one is of special interest to me. I need to know if the coil is getting power with the key in the run position. If there isn't power, have a helper crank the engine while you check to see if there is power in the start position. Do this with both injectors and coil.

As far as the injectors are concerned, to complete the circuit and inject fuel, the PCM provides a ground path at specific times. So, the black wires should have power if the key is in the run or start position.

If you find the power is correct, I suspect the ignition coil/igniter is bad. If it isn't sending a signal to the ECM showing an ignition reference, the fuel pump is shut down.

Let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.

Okay, now that we know the ignition has power, follow the directions below to determine if the coil/igniter is bad. I have a feeling that is where the problem is based on the "no igf signal" code.

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below.

Hi,

The coil is within specification, so that isn't the issue. By any chance, do you have an igniter you could switch to test? I have a feeling that is the problem.

I attached two pics below. One shows the location, and the other is what you are looking for. Confirm the connection is good, not damaged or corroded, and the pins are not pushed or damaged.

The code you have which indicates no igf signal is pointing to this part. I can't guarantee it but feel this is the likely cause.

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below.

Hi,

You can purchase these online or even on eBay for a low price. You really should get one specifically designed for your vehicle. If the Camry's ignitor has the same part number, it would be good to try, but if you get it used, you likely can't return it if that doesn't resolve the issue.

The manufacturer's part number should be 8962126010. It's your call on how you want to proceed.

Regardless, let me know what you decide and your findings. I'm here to help if you have questions. Also, take a look at the pic below. It indicates the best offer, so offer ten dollars. LOL

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.

On your vehicle, the ECM uses the igf signal to confirm the ignition coil has fired after an igt pulse. If the igf signal isn't received by the ECM, the fuel injectors/fuel system is shut down.

The initial start you get is because the initial igt signal is present and it starts. After the start, the igf needs to indicate to the ECM that the spark was delivered. If the igf signal is not present, the ECU goes into fuel fail-safe and stops the injector pulses, and the engine stalls.

I wish I could guarantee this is the issue. It could be a bad ECM or a bad connection between the igniter and the ECM. You inspected the connector at the igniter, and it looks good. If you want, disconnect the battery and unplug the ECM connector.

The igf signal is sent from the igniter to the ECM via a black wire with a yellow tracer. It will be pin 3 in the connector. Confirm there is no corrosion at the ECM connection. Then, using a multimeter, confirm there is continuity through that wire between the igniter and ECM. If there is, that takes me back to the igniter.

Let me know what you find or if there is anything I can do to help.

Take care,

Joe