Fuel System?

Hi,

I suspect this is a mechanical fuel pump. Is that correct? If it is, there is an eccentric on the camshaft that the plunger arm on the pump rides on. Make sure the rocker arm is riding on the camshaft eccentric. If it is, the eccentric is likely bad. If that is the case, I would suggest getting a low-pressure electric pump and replacing the mechanical one.

In this case, remove the pump, inspect the eccentric on the cam (you will likely need a small mirror and light), and then confirm the plunger arm is riding correctly on the cam.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Hi,

Certainly, if the needle and seat are stuck closed, you won't get fuel into the carb. Try tapping around the fuel inlet at the carburetor to see if that changes things. Use the handle side of a screwdriver to tap.

Next, if you disconnect the fuel inlet at the carb, you can place the supply hose into a fuel can and have a helper crank the engine. You should see fuel shooting into the fuel can.

As far as the pump, it should produce approximately 6 PSI. This doesn't require anything high-pressure.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

That is what it sounds like is happening. If you plunge the lever by hand, does it move the fuel? If so, the eccentric is my first suspect.

Are you able to get a mechanic's mirror in position to see inside?

Let me know.

Joe

PS: If this truck was 4wd, I would be trying to buy it from you. LOL I really like the body style.

Thanks for the update. As far as the pump, are you accessing it from the top or bottom? It has been a while, but if I remember correctly, it was easier from under the vehicle. (But I may have had a lift) I just can't remember. LOL

Regardless, let me know what you find. And the square body is my favorite. I learned to drive in a 78 Power Wagon. LOL When that body style went away, I fell for the 80 style.

Thanks for the update. When you can, let me know what you find. We need to get this one up and running. LOL

Joe

Hi,

Ugh, that isn't good. It could be a timing issue, an intake valve issue, and so on. Was the engine running prior to needing the pump? Also, did you get a pump that is low enough pressure?

Also, if you haven't already, check to see if there are codes stored in the computer. Here is a link that explains how it's done. Note: You don't need a scanner.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/retrieve-trouble-codes-for-chrysler-dodge-plymouth-odb1-1995-and-earlier-car-mini-van-and-light-trucks

Let me know

Joe

Hi,

I believe Chrysler started using the OBD1 system in 1983, so it should work.

When you say you turned the distributor, that will change the ignition timing. Were you able to get it back to where it belongs using a timing light? Also, did you remove the reinstall the distributor?

Let me know. Also, I attached the directions below for setting ignition timing via the distributor. If there is no label under the hood indicating the degrees before TDC, start around 10 BTDC.

Note that the directions are with the engine running. You can do it while cranking the engine as well. Once you get it running, you can fine-tune the timing.

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below.

Hi,

What happened? Did it make any difference? I suspect since we are waiting for a timing light, it still didn't start.

Is it possible for you to record it cranking and upload it for me to hear?

Let me know.

Take care,

Joe

Wow, that is turning fast. Before you had the fuel pump issue, was it running normally? It didn't even seem to fire at all. Are you sure it has spark to the plugs? If you use starting fluid, and nothing changes, it's likely there is no spark to the plugs. Check for spark and let me know what is found.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-for-ignition-spark

Take care,

joe