Fuel System?

Hi,

I suspect this is a mechanical fuel pump. Is that correct? If it is, there is an eccentric on the camshaft that the plunger arm on the pump rides on. Make sure the rocker arm is riding on the camshaft eccentric. If it is, the eccentric is likely bad. If that is the case, I would suggest getting a low-pressure electric pump and replacing the mechanical one.

In this case, remove the pump, inspect the eccentric on the cam (you will likely need a small mirror and light), and then confirm the plunger arm is riding correctly on the cam.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Everything is lining up as it should.

Questions:
1) Should i be listening for something or have heard any kind of clanging at any point?
2) Could the float in the carb be stuck?
3) If I have to convert, what size of electric pump would I need? GPH, PSI, etc.

Hi,

Certainly, if the needle and seat are stuck closed, you won't get fuel into the carb. Try tapping around the fuel inlet at the carburetor to see if that changes things. Use the handle side of a screwdriver to tap.

Next, if you disconnect the fuel inlet at the carb, you can place the supply hose into a fuel can and have a helper crank the engine. You should see fuel shooting into the fuel can.

As far as the pump, it should produce approximately 6 PSI. This doesn't require anything high-pressure.

Let me know.

Joe

Okay, so, i tried the gas can test to the pump and to the carburetor no fuel is moving. i double checked the actuator and it is placed correctly. Am i looking at an eccentric issue?

Hi,

That is what it sounds like is happening. If you plunge the lever by hand, does it move the fuel? If so, the eccentric is my first suspect.

Are you able to get a mechanic's mirror in position to see inside?

Let me know.

Joe

PS: If this truck was 4wd, I would be trying to buy it from you. LOL I really like the body style.

I will try and see if it pumps by hand. To be honest, getting the pump in is a royal pain in the arse and dreadful endeavor.
I am rather fond of this body style myself. Lol I'm determined to get her back to health.

Thanks for the update. As far as the pump, are you accessing it from the top or bottom? It has been a while, but if I remember correctly, it was easier from under the vehicle. (But I may have had a lift) I just can't remember. LOL

Regardless, let me know what you find. And the square body is my favorite. I learned to drive in a 78 Power Wagon. LOL When that body style went away, I fell for the 80 style.

From the bottom. If it wasn't more work, it would almost be worth it to take out the fender well just to ease up the install itself. Lol. As soon as I can get back on the creeper, I'll let you know what's what.

Agreed, from the first time I sat in the seat, this pickup pretty much became my mistress.

Thanks for the update. When you can, let me know what you find. We need to get this one up and running. LOL

Joe

Will do! Lol

Okay, so I put the electric fuel pump on her and just had a flame shoot out of the carburetor. If memory serves, this indicated late timing, correct?

Hi,

Ugh, that isn't good. It could be a timing issue, an intake valve issue, and so on. Was the engine running prior to needing the pump? Also, did you get a pump that is low enough pressure?

Also, if you haven't already, check to see if there are codes stored in the computer. Here is a link that explains how it's done. Note: You don't need a scanner.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/retrieve-trouble-codes-for-chrysler-dodge-plymouth-odb1-1995-and-earlier-car-mini-van-and-light-trucks

Let me know

Joe

Outstanding.
She hasn't run for a while, but she ran like a scalded dog before I accidentally turned the distributor. The pump I used is 3-6PSI, the lowest I could find. Would the code trick work on an '85?

Hi,

I believe Chrysler started using the OBD1 system in 1983, so it should work.

When you say you turned the distributor, that will change the ignition timing. Were you able to get it back to where it belongs using a timing light? Also, did you remove the reinstall the distributor?

Let me know. Also, I attached the directions below for setting ignition timing via the distributor. If there is no label under the hood indicating the degrees before TDC, start around 10 BTDC.

Note that the directions are with the engine running. You can do it while cranking the engine as well. Once you get it running, you can fine-tune the timing.

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below.

I didn't uninstall it. I was trying to reconnect a wire and my arm nudged the "cannister" on the back of it. Been a fight ever since. Thanks for the info. Might take me some time, but I'll keep you posted.

Waiting to get a timing light. I did try turning the distributor in both directions click by click just to see what might happen. I am sure you can guess the outcome.

Hi,

What happened? Did it make any difference? I suspect since we are waiting for a timing light, it still didn't start.

Is it possible for you to record it cranking and upload it for me to hear?

Let me know.

Take care,

Joe

This is what she sounds like with distributor aimed at the #1 cylinder.

Wow, that is turning fast. Before you had the fuel pump issue, was it running normally? It didn't even seem to fire at all. Are you sure it has spark to the plugs? If you use starting fluid, and nothing changes, it's likely there is no spark to the plugs. Check for spark and let me know what is found.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-for-ignition-spark

Take care,

joe

It is rather fast. That has only been since I replaced the starter. Like I say, she started fine before the distributor mishap. I thought I might check the distributor vacuum just to make sure I didn’t cause any issues with connections, seating and such. I used a spark tester and verified all cylinders. Never been a fan of the “ground the plug” technique.

Hi,

When you checked the plugs, was there spark or none? Also, did you try to check for diagnostic trouble codes?

If there is no spark, the next thing I need you to check is for power at the coil. I found some old manufacturer's wiring schematics. I attached them below. Note that it was only one page in length. I had to cut it in half to make it readable. I did overlap them so you can follow from one to the next.

Check the coil for power. Also, confirm the ECU hasn't been slightly disconnected (pic 3). If you remember which wire your hand got caught on, let me know that as well.

Let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Yeah, they had spark. When I checked for codes, the check engine light didn’t blink. The distributor incident happened when I was replacing the pigtail on top of the transmission. The distributor got turned by me trying to squeeze my arm around it. I appreciate the schematics; I have been considering doing some wire inspection and I am sure these will help. I have already run my multi-meter throughout the entire wiring harness. Don’t guess it could hurt to do it again. Unfortunately, I am a tad on the disabled side, so any amount of DIY proves to be a bit more difficult that it should be. I will keep you posted on any progress or lack there of.

Hi,

I'm sorry to hear that. Let me know if there is anything I can do that would help you. As far as the issue, if you do have spark and fuel, it should run. Something isn't adding up. Even if you turned the distributor, it would still try to run or backfire or something.

You did say at one point, flames came from the carb. That is an indication of a timing or internal issue. However, the distributor wasn't removed. Ugh!

Remove the distributor cap and see if there is excessive play in the distributor shaft. See if you are able to move the rotor excessively back and forth. Maybe something is damaged in the distributor causing a timing issue.

Let me know.

Take care of yourself.

Joe

Thank you, your help is greatly appreciated.
There is a lot of backfire. It occurred to me (after coming across it), I didn't put the capacitor back in place when I put the coil back in. Had to remove the coil to make room to get my hand through. Is there any way it could be that simple?

Hi,

Capacitor? Can you upload a pic of what you are seeing? There really isn't a capacitor in the ignition system.

Also, if it is backfiring, were the spark plug wires removed and replaced? If so, are you sure the wires are in the correct firing order? See pic below.

When I heard it cranking, I didn't notice any backfiring. Let me know what is happening.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.

I call it a capacitor. Normal people call it a condenser, wire to positive lead and mounted between the coil and firewall. I will check the wire order again. Couldn't hurt. The noise of cranking may have drowned out the backfiring.

Hi,

Have you replaced it? That could be causing an issue.

Let me know.

Joe

Not yet, I wanted to get your thoughts first.

In the old days, that is what was used with points in the distributor. It prevented arcing by absorbing power when the points opened. (electric always takes the easiest way out). If that is tied into the ignition system, that could be allowing spark to be jumping around. I would give it a try.

Joe

Hey Joe, I was comparing the firing order you sent to what is in the pickup. The image shows #1 towards the 7 o'clock position. I have it with the #1 wire at approximately the 5 o'clock position, more or less aimed towards piston #1.

I guess I'm asking which of the 3 is correct. Aimed towards the #1 piston, the example you sent me or the example from my Chilton manual. See pic below

Hi,

The pic I attached above is correct. You need to align the TDC mark on the crankshaft pulley with the indicator. Once that is at TDC, the rotor should point to the front of the vehicle. Is that what you have?

Joe

Hey Joe, would you happen to know where I can find a better wiring diagram/schematic than what's in my manuals? There are a lot of wires not shown in these.

Which ones are needed? Let me know. Although my manual is somewhat limited, there are a lot of schematics for specific things. Other than me, you can purchase a Hynes or Chilton manual from most parts stores.

Let me know.

Joe

I actually have both manuals. I tend to get both manuals for all my vehicles. The connection point to the inside wiring at the firewall doesn't seem to be represented, nor do all the colors of different wires i am finding.

Hi,

I'm not sure why they would be different. Is there a chance the wiring may have been changed at some point?

Joe

Ya know, knowing the previous owner, that would not surprise me in the least. For example, the EGR system and cruise control were both completely eliminated.

Oh boy. That isn't encouraging. Are you able to use the schematics to follow specific wires and determine if they seem to be going to the correct places?

Let me know.

Joe

for the most part, yes. Only a few wires i am have trouble with. I will see if I can get some pics of them to show you.

Okay, so I tried to get a pic or three of the wires. Couldn't tell some colors from the others. What I found was that one set went to the eliminated EGR time delay, another to a solenoid that doesn't exist in a light duty truck. Still tracing wired to make sure no breaks or fraying and such. Meanwhile, darn thing still will not start.