Fuel injector wiring diagram needed

Thanks Wendy, I have an ICarsoft form MB. I want to check the ohms on injector wiring to the ECU but don't have a wiring diagram until now. I really appreciate your prompt answer. Ron

Wendy, I finally matched the pins and performed an OHM continuity test and all six injector wires to the ECU work. I do have a problem with P0202. The car can be driven around the block but has major hesitation. Because there is continuity, does that mean that the ECU is bad? I am attaching an image of my findings and hope that they may be useful to others.

Wendy, I will check the OHM resistance on injector 2. Is there a fuse diagram that shows which fuse affects cylinder 2?
Thanks, Ron

Hi Wendy,

Your curiosity was an educational concern. Injector 2 did not pass the continuity test. The other injectors averaged 15. I installed another injector that averaged 16. You were "right-on"!
Last summer I was getting a 0600 code and the clock would start turning in one direction and then the other but would stop after about five minutes. Then weeks later the clock would turn, and the headlights would go on and off and the turn signals would not work. Until about 5 minutes and all would normalize.
I chose to be proactive and decided to change the spark plugs and the injectors.
All worked well for about a week, then I started getting error 0202 along with the 0600. I communicated with an online mechanic. (I'll reveal that later if necessary)
He said check the continuity of #2 injector with the plug on the ECU. It checks out good. He said that it was the ECU. I sent the ECU for repair, and they said that it did not exhibit any problems and sent it back.
I have an ICarsoft II for Mercedes. The 0202 error code is gone but a 0201 remains. It passed the continuity test and the injector had 15. I connected a NOID light that did not light up. I inspected all of the fuses under the hood.
The different errors oftentimes mention "instrument cluster". I can get a used instrument cluster.
Is there a common link with the instrument panel and the error code for #1?
I can send a. Pdf of the last test. How should I send it?
I'm not a mechanic but have had multiple cars I've worked on. Mostly Mercedes both gas, diesel and diesel truck.
Electronics are not my forte. I wish I still had my TR3 that was stolen. No computerization and I could hand-crank it if the battery was dead.
Thanks for any suggestions you may have.
This will be a case for journaling.

Wendy, this afternoon I was reviewing the results of the test I did today. On manual select there are 47 potential tests in automatic there are 27.
About halfway through the recording process all of the lights and gauges on the instrument cluster lit or showed temperature/gas level. So, the lights and gauges may be good, but something is missing. Could that be low voltage? If so, would that be the regulator?

Thanks again for your valuable input. Ron

Wendy, I checked both the driver side and passenger side grounding wires. The passenger side was clean however, the driver side ground did need cleaning. I've attached pictures of both.
Afterwards I ran the car around the area for about 15 minutes and did not notice any difference in the clusters display.
Thanks, Ron

Hi Wendy,
I haven't been able to check the charging system yet.
Here are the results of the latest test.
Hope this helps.
Thanks, Ron

Wendy,
Since I'm a one-man operator, I may drive to AutoZone and have them perform a load test. With only 5 cylinders firing it's more difficult to keep the RPMs up.
Thanks, Ron

Hi Wendy,

I took the car to AutoZone yesterday and the primary battery was good but at 44%. The alternator showed as operational. I showed them the clock, front lights and lack of lights and instruments working on the instrument cluster.

Based on the tests and that the regulator is part of the alternator, they said that they believe that a new alternator is needed.

I called a company that repairs instrument clusters and they said "purchase a used cluster and if it works, send both the old and the new used one to them and we'll upgrade the used so that the mileage etc. Is correct". He also said it appears that the main cause is affected by "under voltage".

So, I ordered a new alternator and will install it next week.
I'm adding two videos. One of the lights and the second one is the clock.

Thanks, Ron

Hi Wendy,

While I'm waiting on my alternator, I wanted to give you feedback on two of your comments:
1. I did a VIN search for Mercedes recalls and the only one for my vehicle pertained to the sunroof.
2. You made mention of potential wiring problems. Since my other MB is out of commission, I have resurrected my 1998 E320 wagon with 332,000 miles on its odometer. I had to replace a headlight bulb and the picture shows what you were talking about.

Thanks again, Ron

Hello Wendy, I installed a new alternator and have attached the ICarsoft test results.
The low voltage error does not show up until the door tests.
I performed tests on the #1 injector and the results are on the attachment.
Prior to changing the alternator, I took the instrument cluster out and did a minor visual inspection and could not see any hot points. None of the lights or gauges worked. The only movement was the “possessed” clock.
Now, for no specific reason the clock has stopped winding and stops at the correct time, then the fuel gauge, engine temperature gauge, lighting and warnings all work... Including the “Check engine” light!
When I turned the ignition off by backing it one click, let it rest and then started the car, the cluster would work.
What do you suggest the next action should be?
Thanks for your input, Ron