Front wheel riders side noise

Yes. More than likely this is a wheel bearing because they get louder when loading that side of the vehicle which is what you are doing when you turn to the left.

Unfortunately the only way to correct that on your vehicle is to replace the hub assembly as the bearings are not serviceable like they are on 2WD vehicles.

Let me know if you need more info.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-wheel-bearings-and-seals

It may be normal noise from gears in axle have the rear end lube checked but if its 'that not a lot you can do about it unless it really bugs you then they would need to check clearances in axle and even if ok it still may not go away. You can also check u-joints in driveshaft and center bearing if you have one.

2. Remove the axle-to-wheel hub retainer nut and washer.
3. Remove the parking brake shoes.

WARNING
Do not use a hammer to separate the outboard CV-joint from the hub. Damage to the threads and internal CV-joint components can result.

4. Press the outboard CV-joint until it is loose from the hub.
5. Remove and discard the toe link-to-wheel knuckle nut.

WARNING
Do not damage the boot while separating the toe link from the wheel knuckle.

6. Remove the bolt and separate the toe link from the wheel knuckle.
7. Remove and discard the upper arm-to-wheel knuckle nut.

WARNING
Do not damage the boot while separating the ball joint from the wheel knuckle.

8. Remove the bolt and separate the upper arm from the wheel knuckle.
9. Remove and discard the lower arm-to-wheel knuckle nut.
10. Remove the lower arm-to-wheel knuckle bolt.
11. Remove the wheel knuckle.
12. Using a suitable press, remove and discard the wheel hub.
13. Remove and discard the wheel bearing retainer ring.
14. Using a suitable press, remove the wheel bearing.

Here are the procedures, you decide if it is easy or not.

Removal and Installation
1. On 4x4 vehicles, loosen the axle retainer nut.
Fig. 66: Loosening Axle Retainer Nut (4x4 Vehicles)

NOTE:
The wheel speed sensor electrical connectors are located in the engine compartment secured to the fender aprons.
Fig. 67: Disconnecting Wheel Speed Sensor

2. Disconnect the wheel speed sensor.

3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

4. To remove wheel bearings, carry out steps 1 to 8.

5. Remove the components in the order indicated in the following illustration and table.

Fig. 68: Identifying Wheel Bearing, Hub, Knuckle, Upper Arm And Lower Arm Components

To install, reverse the removal procedure.

Item 1: Axle-to-Wheel Hub Nut Removal Note
1. Remove the nut and, using the special tool, separate the outboard CV joint from the wheel hub.

Fig. 70: Separating Outboard CV Joint From Wheel Hub Using Special Tool

Item 2: Speed Sensor Harness Removal Note
1. Detach the wheel speed sensor harness from the brake hose.

Fig. 71: Detaching Wheel Speed Sensor Harness From Brake Hose

Item 5: Brake Caliper, Pads and Anchor Plate Removal Note

CAUTION:Do not allow the brake caliper to hang from the hose or
damage to the hose can occur.

1. Position the caliper, pads and anchor plate aside.

The price for the part is about right. It is a hub and bearing assembly and is not servicable. I can't remember for sure, but I think the ABS sensor is also a part of that assembly. As far as the labor is concerned, that depends on what the labor rate was. The flatrate charge should have been somewhere around 2 to 2.5 hours to replace.

When the abs light is on it means it doesn't work it's still safe to drive you just won't have abs anymore until it's fixed. You need to get it scaned to see what the problem is. But as you replaced the wheel bearings i'd suspectyou damaged one or both of the sensors for the abs. But get it scannedto see if one or any are bad.

Wheel bearings are not adjustable. The wheel bearings and hubs are serviced as an assembly.

Its an easy job
the only hard thing would be removing axle nut
this is what I have for step by step

HUB & BEARING
Removal & Installation
Remove and discard the axle-to-wheel hub nut. Disconnect the Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) wheel speed sensor connector located in the engine compartment, secured to the fender aprons. Raise and support vehicle. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. Detach the speed sensor wiring harness from the retainers.
Remove the bolts and position the brake caliper and support bracket aside. Do not allow the disc brake caliper to hang suspended from the brake hose. Provide a suitable support. Remove the brake disc.
CAUTION:Do not overextend the CV joint and boots when removing the wheel hub.

Using the Front Wheel Hub Remover (D93P-1175-B), press the outboard CV joint until it is loose in the hub. See Fig. 1 . Remove the three hub bolts and discard them. See Fig. 2 . Remove the wheel hub and sensor as an assembly.
Apply a thin coat of Silicone Sealant (F7AZ-19554-EA) to the wheel hub mounting surfaces before installation. To install, reverse the removal procedure. Install NEW fasteners where necessary. Tighten all nuts and bolts to specification

The biggest cause of repeat failures is improper assembly procedure. Specifically, the axle nut has to be tightened to its very high torque spec with a click-type torque wrench before any vehicle weight is placed on it. A lot of do-it-yourselfers set the vehicle down with the tire on the ground to hold the axle from rotating when they tighten that nut. By that time it's too late. The damage has been done. Instead, poke a pry bar into a hole in the brake rotor to hold the axle from spinning, then tighten the nut.

Thank you. We like to know the engine size, mileage, and transmission type to tailor our replies, and to prioritize the list of suspects, but in this case, I should have added that when a new wheel bearing becomes noisy days or weeks after it was installed, it is more likely to be the axle nut was tightened, but without a click-type torque wrench. This applies to the bolted-on bearing assemblies that call for around 180 to 240 foot pounds, which is a lot higher than you'd expect to be needed.

The front wheel bearings I found listed for your vehicle are of the older tapered design. For those, the axle nut must not be tightened as I just described for the bolt-on style. In fact, one of the causes of early failure is over-tightening them. That puts so much force on the rollers that they squeeze the grease out as they rotate. The metal-to-metal contact between the rollers and the "races" they run on leads to rapid wear and often overheating.

Once a bearing becomes noisy, adding grease won't help. Small bumps or indentations have developed on those highly-polished races. The buzzing noise comes from the roller bearings running over those bumps.