Engine Stalls at idle

Good this eliminates that from being it. Now did you check the mass air flow meter? I would like you to also check the coolant temp sensor and air charge temp sensor. Just unplug them when the car is cold like in the morning before it has been started. Now with the multi meter set it on ohm's and with the sensor unpluged check ohms across the terminals of the sensors (not wire harness) and get back to me with the reading on both and the air temp at the time.

Back on August 30th, I suggested you investigate the CMP sensor since you got the P0340 code. Despite my recommendations, you took unnecessary steps with the alternator, MAF, and TPS instead.

Not all is lost, though; you gained some experience with different components even though they didn't relate to your problem. Believe me, I've chased my own tail round-and-round before coming up with a solution. I just wish you would have taken my advice with the long article I left you on August 30th regarding the CMP sensor.

I don't mean anything offensive by this note and in no way am I a Mr. Know-It-All; I truly hope you resolved the issue. . But I told you so. Check the CMP.

Ok first I am sorry that guy ripped you a new one that was uncalled for. I had you do the other tests to one rule them out and also it let me know that you are getting power to those sensors so it also rules out the PCM for now too. Now with that said lets look at the cam sensor. Use pic below to help with the testing. I am going to give you the test a step at a time if you don't mind. First unplug the sensor and then hook up you volt meter between the VPWR term on the wiring harness and ground. Turn key on engine off and note voltage. If more then 10.5 volts then wire is good it not find break in the wire. Now if you do have 10.5 volt or more then you to check the ground. Turn key off again and hook up you meter between pwr/gnd (pin 24) and ground and now you will measure ohms should be less the 5 ohms. Now if this checks out get back to me and we will go to the next step ok. You are not testing the sensor yet you are testing the wire harness that you unpluged ok. Here is the pic of the plug.

Great glad to hear it is fixed. Again sorry the other guy did the I told you so not needed. If you have any more questions please just ask. Thanks again and have a great day.

Help is here. What you need to replace is the egr pressure sensor or DPFE. It costs about 50 bucks and has 2 vacuum hoses from the exhaust going to it and a electrical plug. Buy the new one and you will see it. Its very simple to install. These egr valves dont go bad, its always the sensor. Hope this helps

I need to know the exact code that turns on the engine light. You have a odd one, this usully always fixes the egr code for low flow and high flow. Did you look inside the rubber lines and make sure they are installed correctly, not split ends?

Just repost on this post ans I will see it.

There will only be vacuum at the egr with engine in gear and a load on system. The 2 lean codes are caused by either a dirty mass air flow sensor or a vacuum leak. This is a easy one to detect if you have a scan tool and can read o2 sensor data with the engine cold. There is a bulletin from ford for the intake gaskets leaking causing the lean issue when cold and when the engine heats up the gaskets expand and the problem goes away. It seems you have covered the basics on the egr problem, now we need to get a little crafty. You need to check the egr passages for blockage, this can be done by using a vacuum pump and put pressure on egr vacuum port with the engine running and the vehicle should almost stall or actually stall, if it does then we know the passages are clear. Get back to us

Next time it will not start do below immediately to determine if its fuel or spark problem.

Disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors- Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it