Engine losing power?

Tiny
NCARP03
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1998 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 135,000 MILES
Here's the many symptoms my car is having- upon start up, idle revs to almost 2000 rpm and stays there for a few minutes before finally falling to 1k; when driving, if I turn on the blower or push both window controls at the same time, the lights dim and the rpms drop; the car has horrible acceleration, almost like it is straining to go faster; absolutely no response when I push the gas pedal. I'm not a mechanic, but more of a weekend warrior. Car has new Mass airflow sensor, throttle position sensor, air filter, tuned up recently. Really stumped as to what is causing this? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
Check teh charging system as far as the dim lights go, have the alt and battery load tested, this can be done on the car. Poor performance, if it only idles down to 1k, you probably have a vacuum leak that is messing with the mixture. Use carb cleaner to carefully spray around the intake area, when you spray a leak, the idle will change. Look at the fitting where the PCV line connects to the intake, they go soft and leak all of the time. If the check engine light is on, have the PCM scanned for codes and get back to me
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
NCARP03
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I had autozone check the charging system and said the battery and alternator check out perfect. Any other ideas what would cause this? Not sure if it's related, but when I kick on the blower the motor loses even more power and it also shutters in spurts (almost like the car got goosebumps real quick and had a little shaking fit). Ever heard of those things or what could be causing it?

Also, somebody mentioned the IAC may be faulty? Is there a way to check the old one before going and buying a $50 dollar sensor?
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
If ti only happens at idle, the IAC coudl be slow to react, causing the engine to slow down. Try cleaning out th e throtle bore with carb cleaner and a rag first to see if it will stabilize the idle. Teh IAC only affects idle quality.
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TITUS CARTER
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1998 FORD TAURUS
  • 3.1L
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 185,000 MILES
Need help tired of just changing parts.
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Scanfor codes and check fuelpressure with a gauge first. Autoparts rent the gauge
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TITUS CARTER
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
My catalytic converter has been replaced, and air flow censer has been replaced, and my fuel filter has been replace. My car still hesitates and back fire after engine gets hot. While idling the car run find going up a hill it dogs out as if it is running out of gas than it back fires.
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Did you even read my reply? If you don't do that first then you might as well have amechanic do it for you.
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MYKAI4
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1998 FORD TAURUS
Electrical problem
1998 Ford Taurus Two Wheel Drive Automatic 150000 miles

I get into my car at times and my radio is zeroed out like the battery has died however, the car starts just fine. Then when I drive the car and go from a higher RPM to a lower RPM all the lights in the car and the radio and A/C go all dim/out but they come back on instantly. Only have had the battery act totally dead twice once my husband jumped it and it was fine the second time I went into the house to get him left the keys in the egination and by the time I got back all the lights were on and it started gine. The headlights do intermittenly flicker from regular to dim. The ground wire was loose so we tighted that, he battery has been checked and is fine, the AIC had acted up but reset when we unhooked the battery as suggested by your site.
Any ideas? The guy next door is a car guy and he says when the lights and a/c are going out the engine is not losing power that it is electrical which he does not do.
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,700 POSTS
Have you checked all grounds? Also, have you had the alternator checked?
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MYKAI4
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
The grounds have been checked and tightened and because it is only the lights and a/c I have been told the altenator is fine
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,700 POSTS
You mentioned when the RPMs drop. Could it be due to the rpm's getting low enough that the alt doesn't produce enough current for a second?
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MYKAI4
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Not real sure but it has been doing this for a couple of months. Could it be the voltage regulator and in this model is it in the alternator?
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,700 POSTS
It could be the voltage regulator. It is part of the alternator. If you remove the alternator, most parts stores can bench test it to see what is happening. That would be a good idea.
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
IRAGEMONSTER
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 FORD TAURUS
  • V6
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 115,000 MILES
Vehicle starts and runs good for driving. All fluids are where they need to be. When I first start the car in the morning and the first complete stop I come to the car will not accelerate foward, RPMS's will go up. I have to either shut the car off and turn it back on for it to accelerate or I can put it reverse and then back into drive for it to accelerate. It will do it at most complete stops but has no trouble shifting gears, getting put into gear, or accelerating once it actually goes.
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MOTOR MASTER
  • MECHANIC
  • 279 POSTS
Hello my name is Dave.

Have you checked for any trouble codes? If you don't have any trouble codes I would start with a transmission service making sure to use Mercon V. If you have any trouble codes that would be greatly helpful in tracking down the issue. I see that you are a mechanic, do you have a scanner so you can see the live data? If you do I would use the scanner to see what gear the PCM indicates is selected at the time of the failure as it sounds like there could possibly be an issue with the gear range selector (neutral safety switch) that clears up once it's warmed up or reset by turning it off or manually changing the gears. Please keep us updated on your progress and let us know if you find any trouble codes and thank you for using 2CarPros!
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ANGELA_ADAM
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
Car has new cadiltic converter oil in exhust and engine has no power but will eventually arrive at the desired speed. Thank you.I will give a donation if I get a decent answer.(And I am sorry I dont mean that rudely.
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Hi there,

The oil in the exhaust will be coming from a failed piston ring or oil control ring, for oil to be in the exhaust there must be a substantial problem, I would think that the catalytic converter is choked with oil and rendered fairly useless, this will cause a build up in back pressure which would account for the poor engine performance. I would be checking spark plugs to identify the suspect cylinder, the plug will be fouled with oil. With what you have described I feel that you have a major engine problem on your hands, and it will need further investigation.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TDAWG2630
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 189,000 MILES
Whats does it mean when service engine light flashes. Question 2 the car is a 98 taurus and when the gas is hit it shakes and feels like it either wants to shut off or hardly no power. The car when moving seems fine besides a little hesation what could it be.
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • MECHANIC
  • 10,371 POSTS
Means that there is a error stored in the computer, and since you are having a perforamnce issue and the light is on something is wrong.

Get it scanned for codes and post back, I can then help you find out whats wrong.
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:45 AM (Merged)

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