Fan Clutch Replacement Instructions

The fan is not spinning.

Hi. I did install a new water pump, fan clutch & belt. But every time I start the vehicle for the first time, and drive off, I get this racing engine for about five to ten seconds before every thing runs smooth. This happens even if I let the engine warms up. I didn't have this problem before changing those parts. Is the fan taking too long to engage system? Thank you.

I noticed the fan clutch was loud and I let it be for a few months. I decided to change it and now it is way louder and it does it constantly. It never stops no matter what speed I’m at or even after the truck is warmed loud all the time. I heard you had to let it break in, but I been driving it for 3 days a lot and still the same.

I am attempting to change the water pump. It has been twenty years since I have changed one. How do I remove the fan clutch?

I ended up using a wrench that removes oil filter to hold the pulley. The book said to screw it off counterclock wise, but from where I was it was Clockwise to unscrew it. But the new pump showed me that. I have taken a real interest in fixing stuff. Thanks for your response. By the way. Ford put one bolt in a place that I ended up cutting it off, right behind the part that holds the a/c compressor. I don't doubt that there is a way to get that piece off to get to that one bolt, but I gave up and cut it off, I am going to attempt to not use that one bolt. That may be stupid, but I am still going to give it a whirl.

My truck started making a loud wind noise when accelerating and a noticeable power loss. I replaced the clutch fan with a brand new one and it's making the same noise. Could the new one be defective?

Am trying to replace the fan clutch on my 3.0L. Is this right hand or left hand thread? The instructions with the new one said that I should put a box end wrench on one bolt of the water pump pulley and let the shank of the wrench rest on another bolt. However the pulley (and bolts) are recessed and can't get a box end onto it. When try to use a ratchet and socket, it just keeps turning. How is the easiest way to get this thing off and new one on? Any suggestions would be most appreciated.

Engine Cooling problem
1996 Ford Ranger 6 cyl Automatic 180000 miles

I am trying to remove the clutch hub assembly from the water pump drivebelt hub. A special wrench is supposed to go around the screws/bolts that hold the pulley to the water pump. However, the four screws/bolts are set inward; therefore, the flat wrench does not work. I could probably get a socket wrench on one of the bolts but I doubt holding one bolt would be enough.

I tried using a strap wrench to keep the pulley from rotating but that did not work. I cannot break the hold on the the large nut that holds the clutch to the pulley.

To better understand what I am trying to say, please look at the diagram found in figure 2 (2.9L and 3.0L engines) at the following link:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f802c54b9

This diagram shows the bolt going into the top pulley (call it pulley-a). Pulley-a has the 4 screws/bolts that the wrench can lock onto. In the bottom pulley (call it pulley-b) the bolts are inset, which means the wrench cannot lock onto the bolts.

In my truck, the top pulley (call it pulley-1) is small and to the right of the bottom pulley (call it pulley-2). In my truck, the bolt goes into pulley-2.

Problem: Pulley-2 (my truck) looks like pulley-b (diagram). The screws/bolts are inset.

Any advice you can provide will be greatly appreciated. If someone is able to help me, I would gladly make a donation. Unfortunately, I've been seeking online help all day and continue to get the same answers--answers that do not pertain to my vehicle. (Naturally, my truck is not the norm. =[

Thank you again. I look forward to hearing from you.

Strap wrench. Remove the belt, wrap strap wrench around the pully for turning/holding counter clockwise and use large cresent wrench on the fan clutch and turn it clock wise.