Engine loses power

Check the TPS (throttle position sensor) It's an easy install and the sensor only runs about $25.
I had the same problem. Racing idle, not going into gear. Replaced it and all the problems stopped, it even increased my milage.

Thanks for your reply. I replaced the fuel filter and it seems to have fixed it. However, with a truck that's almost 20 years old, I stand to benefit by inspecting and/or replacing a lot of small things. The TPS is a great recommendation. Should have thought about that before!

My 1994 ranger knocks when accellerating and lacks power. I changed fuel filter, ignition wires. Any ideas what to do next?

Engine Performance problem
1991 Ford Ranger 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual 100K+ miles

Strange problem. Started to experience a loss of power. Takes a long time to get the vehicle moving but will eventually get up to speed but any hill becomes a struggle. The engine runs fairly smooth, not like a plug wire is off but there is some slight popping or backfire noise when you let off the accelerator. I have done the obvious, new fuel filter, new plug wires, plugs are ok and maintains fuel pressure of 38 psi at the Schrader valve throughout the RPM range. There is a definite, loud clicking sound from the two aft injectors on the passenger side. I removed the connector at those two injectors and the clicking disappears without a noticable change in engine noise. I thought possibly injectors were plugged so I replaced all six. The new injectors did not improve the problem at all. When I put a meter to the connectors while running I get 12.85 volts. The other odd item is after the engine runs for a few minutes, the plug wires are very hot, too hot to touch. Any ideas?

I installed new plugs and it runs slightly better or maybe it's just my imagination. The plug wires are still hot and it still has the loud tapping noise. When I disconnect the aft two passenger side injector connectors the noise goes away and engine runs only a little rougher, almost not noticable. I also pulled the valve cover and removed rocker arms. The valves stayed in place so at least a valve is not broken at a stem. If you push the gas it eventually gets up to about 4k rpm and seems to run smoother. I also usually have to hold the pedal to the floor to get it started if it does not start on the first try. Seems like it is flooding. Can the ignition coil cause the hot wires as well?

I do not have the ability to check compression, guess Ill have to go buy the tool. I am however thinking possibly bad valves I replaced the coil since it's only 20 bucks. The motor fired up easier but still have the noise. The odd thing is after running a few minutes and reving the motor, only the passenger side plug wires are hot, drivers side I can hold onto with no problem. The noise sounds like an exhaust leak but there isn't one. Motor is slow to respond when accellerator is pushed, response is not as immediate as it should be. I would say there is about a 2-3 second lag. Once it respnds it seems ok at high, (4K) rpm's. I am getting lost on whether it's a fuel issue cauing the electrical or visa versa. What are the chances it's the ICM? I don't think this is in anyway emmisiions related, it seems to be affecting only the two aft right hand cyliders. When it gets dark tonight I'll run it and look for any sparks were they shouldn't be. The dist cap is the only thing not new but the cap and rotor look brand new, no carbon, no signs of arcing.

I have a 1990 ford ranger that experienced a loss of power. I have to have it right to the floor to go highway speeds. It's a 2.9L standard. The converter is not plugged. Fuel filter is good. What is my next step.

My 2.3l runs great sometimes but will all of a sudden go into a jerking, bucking, backfiring, gas guzzleing, vibrating, mash the pedal to maintain 45mph piece of crap. If it sits for a long period of time (overnight or longer) it will be ok for a short period of time (half a day). It does have a check engine light on but as I am rural no one around here has the equipment to download OBD1 trouble codes. I have new plugs and wires -thought it was a shorted plug wire. I have only owned it for around 3 thousand miles. This problem occured after filling the tank - when I went back to the station to ask if they had a bad load of fuel they were closed - for good. I have since ran that bad fuel out but still have the problem. Maybe its part of it maybe not. Its like someone flipping a light switch- runs good- FLIP- runs bad. It also has a new fuel rail and pressure reg installed b4 I bought it.

U need to get that check engine light diagnosed before u spend any more money cause that could be where the problem lies

So after removing sparks plugs, I was told STEAM came out of #4 SPARK plug hole. What should be my next check/step?

Good questions. I will have to check. Thanks!

All good Q's! But I already researched as U all suggested. No loss of coolant, and no the plug was similar color as others. Turns out it was not steam was just hot gases. The problem was/is the transmission. The uphill issue matured into an acceleration issue but the tachometer did not fluctuate during acceleration! Long story but the Xmission needs to be worked on. Thanx for support!