Engine loses power

Tiny
GOMER86
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 FORD RANGER
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 211,000 MILES
Ecessive power loss cant get a nswer
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 10:04 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BURRLIUS
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
Have you checked the mass air flow sensor
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 10:04 AM (Merged)
Tiny
D457338
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I Replaced o2 sensors, MAF sensor, and fuel filter. Fuel pressure was tested and is fine. No help. All plugs extremely fouled. Codes were pulled and said something about MAF sensor which we replaced. I found a thread on another forum where someone had unplugged the MAF sensor and it defaults the vehicle to factory settings. Now the truck runs hella better but not good, its driveable now sometimes it will idle low and stall out. But full power. Im guessing this means there is indeed a problem somewhere in the MAF system? I highly doubt the new MAF sensor is bad, I dont even think the old one was bad. What else could it be? The cables?

Thanks.
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 10:04 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Check the MAF and PCM terminals for contaminations and/or looseness.

Ensure there are no vacumn leakages between the MAF and the throttle body.

Check the PCV valve. A bad PCV valve would allow vacum leakages.
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 10:04 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HEUER2330
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 FORD RANGER
  • 100,000 MILES
I have a 1994 ford Ranger 2.3L. It idles rough and sputters. It has 0 power when I put it in gear and try to go. I have replaces fuel filter and all plugs and wires and cleaned the maf sensor. I got obd1 codes 57, 72, 41, 33, 38, and 25 out of it. I need my car to run so I can work PLEASE!
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 10:04 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,867 POSTS
That is a lot of codes. They deal with the MAF sensor and EGR. Check both for operation.
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 10:04 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ALEXWITHAC
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
  • 1994 FORD RANGER
  • 4.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
The engine has all of it's power when it is in park and the throttle responds fine. But the moment it is put into gear, the engine has a rough idle, stalls out, and has no power. You have to floor it to reach 10mph. The engine does not rev up high either when it is put in gears either. The engine seems to not even try. I'm assuming it has a bad fuel/air ratio but I don't know what it could be. Again, it is perfectly fine when it is in park.
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 10:04 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,867 POSTS
This could be many things. Have you checked for trouble codes? Have you checked to make sure the catalytic converter isn't plugged? Have you checked fuel pump pressure to make sure it is within the manufacturer's specs? When was the last tune up? Any vacuum leaks? Have you checked ignition timing?
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 10:04 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ALEXWITHAC
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
The motor was just replaced. It has had this problem since the swap. It's not a clogged catalytic converter or fuel pump because it didn't have that problem before. I don't understand how any of that would make it run fine in park but not in gear. I cannot get codes from it because I would have to drive to a dealership because it is too old of a car and it isn't drivable. The new motor has 80k miles on it and had a tuneup before it was pulled from the donor vehicle.
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 10:04 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,867 POSTS
When an engine takes on a load, it makes a big difference. I assume the donor engine ran fine before it was removed. Since it only happens when in gear, have you checked to make sure the main grounds to the engine are clean and tight. Maybe the torque of the engine is causing a loss of ground.
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 10:04 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ALEXWITHAC
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  • 5 POSTS
How can I check that?
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 10:04 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,867 POSTS
Check the negative cable between the battery and the engine block. Make sure it is in good condition and where it attaches to the engine, make sure it is tight and clean. If you can, have a helper place the vehicle in gear and watch to see if the engine is moving excessively due to a bad motor mount and causing an issue with the ground.
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 10:04 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ALEXWITHAC
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
I checked the negative cable and it is fine. I was finally able to pull the codes from the OBD and I fixed the few codes it gave me and it has not fixed the problem at all. The problem only arose after replacing the motor. I do not know what else it could be
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 10:04 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DON JACOBS
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1994 FORD RANGER
  • 100,000 MILES
No noises. No vibration. No tire wear. No power steering leaks. No steering wheel play. Just cruising along and then truck pulls soft or hard to the right and must turn back to left to straighten out.
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 10:04 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,867 POSTS
Have you checked all steering components including the ball joints?
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 10:04 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,867 POSTS
What codes did you get?
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 10:04 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SWITTY123
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
You said you do not have any tire wear, but are the tires you have on now all the same. Because I had the same problem with my ranger and it turned out to be the different tires because of the tread types.
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 10:04 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ALEXWITHAC
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Mass air flow sensor and throttle position sensor but those were both replaced and I'm getting no codes now. If the catalytic converter was clogged, would I get a code for that and would it cause the loss of power under a load? If there isn't a code for that how can I check it without a vacuum gauge or removing it? I've heard I can remove the O2 sensors and that if it runs alright like that it means it's clogged. How effective is that?
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 10:04 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,867 POSTS
The right way is by checking back pressure. However, if you can't, removing the sensors will help the engine breath a little better and you should notice a difference. And yes, the converter will cause a power loss if plugged. However, normally it won't run that great in park or neutral. Finally, often times a converter, when plugged, will get so hot it will glow red. Look for that too.
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 10:04 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BRYANT TAYLOR
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I was having the same issues and I mean exactly. I changed the fuel filter and nothing. I changed the air filter and it fixed it. No one ever says to change that and air flow especially under a load like putting it in gear is EVERYTHING I repeat E V E R Y T H I N G. Auto experts do not impress me.
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 10:04 AM (Merged)

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