1974 Other Ford Models Stutters/Stalls at higher RPM

Tiny
MERLIN2021
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That plastic piece is part of the points! If it's crumbling, replace them, it's all one piece. Points is one of the most important parts of your ignition system. You better know how to adjust them. Or at least have the gap spec! The carb part you need so the choke will close is the choke thermostat, it's a round cioil that fits under a black cover on the side of the carb. Also if the points are that bad get the conderser as well.
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Monday, April 21st, 2008 AT 2:08 PM
Tiny
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Alright. So ignition needs fixing, now the question is: convert to electronic, or just replace the points and condensor? The gap spec is 35-39 degrees. I don't think that is necessary if I convert to electronic though. The parts tech convinced me to hold off on the points systems / or electronic conversion. Obviously with the knowledge I'm now being presented with, that doesn't sound like the best plan.
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Monday, April 21st, 2008 AT 2:45 PM
Tiny
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So I got the new radiator hose on, repositioned the coil so it didn't arc against the fuel line and test drove it. It seems maybe a tad better? It's so freakin' weird! It drove PERFECT up until the final gear at about 60MPH then started jerking again. Pulled off to turn around and between shifting I let it idle: it idled PERFECT with no sign of wanting to die. Get back on the road and go up the hill at 50MPH- Didn't even act like it had a problem so I passed my house thinking I would max it out as much as the road let me. Once again at 60MPH it nearly died (I have custom exhaust so it's normally loud) and nearly went silent. It didn't die though, so I pulled off to turn around again. SAME THING- Idled PERFECT. Drive back doing about 45-50MPH with NO hesitation or issues.
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Monday, April 21st, 2008 AT 4:14 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
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Points arent a bad system, just not AS reliable as electronic. Youll need a set of feeler gauges to set the points, put distributor lobe, thats the worn spot you thougfht! So it is opening the points as far as it can, then set the gap. Tighten the back screw on the points, then use a flat screwdriver on the front end of the points, where the notch is to spread or close the point to match the required gap, then tighten the front screw! The dwell meter is used when it's runnung to check dwell, or how long the points are closed. If it's off, and you want to set dwell at the lower end of the spread to allow for wear, re-adjust the gap.
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Monday, April 21st, 2008 AT 4:14 PM
Tiny
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Well, I'm feeling a bit gutsy. I'm gonna drive it to my uncles house in hopes he has the tools. Even if not he's closer to the parts store than I am. I'll just do 50MPH on the freeway.

UPDATE: I got it there (10miles away). You know it's funny- It acted stutter-y again when I was on a county road. So I thought, to hell with it, I'll floor it if it wants to die (Yeah, I throw tantrums) and to my amazement- It accelerated like a bat out of hell! It didn't stutter anymore! It didn't fix it though- when I PARTIALLY let off the gas it started doing it again. I'm REALLY leaning toward that rebuild now! What do you think?
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Monday, April 21st, 2008 AT 4:21 PM
Tiny
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Okay, bought a points kit. Also got some vacuum lines. Lastly, I got a timing gun- checked timing and I'm at 4-6 Degrees BTDC. I can't find my timing specification so I don't know if that's where it should be :(

EDIT: Changed out the old points system- WOW was it pitted! Wasn't gapping at all! Installed the new points system and gapped at.018. Replaced the PCV valve (figured might as well call it a full service tuneup) and the advance vacuum hose/line. Put the distrib. Cap back on and tested- EVEN BETTER RESPONSE THAN PERFECT! I didn't know it could run that good! Haven't tested at freeway speeds, but man this thing runs STRONG!
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Monday, April 21st, 2008 AT 6:33 PM
Tiny
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Didn't fix the issue: still does it at freeway speeds. So here's where we're at: Runs strong at speeds 0-50MPH (during acceleration, cruise and deceleration) BUT once the car reaches 53MPH (I don't know why this is the magical number) either from just cruising 53, or accelerating really fast to 53 it starts stuttering like someone is half pumping the brakes. By the way, there is no assisted brake system on it- I checked thinking maybe bad vacuum.
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Tuesday, April 22nd, 2008 AT 11:04 AM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
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Whenit jerks, does it backfire thru the carb at all? If not, it is most likley the carb. If it does, you might have a worn cam lobe. Is the new vacuum advace on the distributor yet? To get a good timing set up, do this, loosen the distributor hold sown, not so it's real loose just so you can turn it and it wont move on it's own. Then get some one in the car with it in drive, hold feet on brake and give it about 2500 rpm, now turn dst, until you hear it just start to ping, then back of just till it stops, this will be your engines best timing point. Tighten distributor.
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Tuesday, April 22nd, 2008 AT 12:15 PM
Tiny
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No, advance isn't in yet- should arrive tomorrow. It doesn't backfire either. I'm thinking maybe rebuild or new carb altogether. I don't think there is a timing issue- I've had the car since 2006 and it ran fine back then. I think I just have a dirty and/or tired carburetor. I'll get the advance and let you know. At least the car is running good enough to drive now. Just keep it below 53 :)

EDIT: My wife made her own assessment- I almost laughed at her but then thought about it and realized, she could be right. What if it's just the brakes (for some WEIRD reason) causing issues? Think it's worth checking? Like I said, the stuttering can be overcome if extra throttle is used, there's no backfire or other obvious indication of mechanical issues. They're drum, not disc brakes. Ever heard of this happening to non-disc brakes before?
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Tuesday, April 22nd, 2008 AT 1:28 PM

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