Check charging system light?

TROUBLE SHOOTING
NOTE:For trouble shooting charging system, see BASIC TROUBLE SHOOTING article in GENERAL INFORMATION.

Ensure connections at generator, regulator and engine ground are clean and tight. Ensure battery posts and cables are clean and tight. Inspect drive belt. Inspect central junction box fuse No. 9 (10-amp) and fuse No. 34 (20-amp). Inspect fusible links. Check all connections for looseness or corrosion. If problem is found, repair as necessary. If problem is not found, see SYSTEM TESTS.

BATTERY DRAIN TEST
Ensure junction box/fuse panels are accessible without turning on interior and hood lights. Drive vehicle over 30 MPH for at least 5 minutes. Park vehicle and allow to sit with ignition off for at least 40 minutes to allow electronic modules to power down. Go to next step.
Connect a fused jumper wire between negative battery cable and negative battery post. Disconnect negative battery cable from negative battery post, without breaking the jumper wire connection to prevent modules from resetting. Go to next step.
NOTE:It is very important that continuity is not broken between negative battery post and negative battery cable when disconnecting battery cable or connecting ammeter. If continuity is broken, go to step 1.

Ensure ammeter is set to read milliamps with at least a 10-amp capability. Connect ammeter between negative battery cable and negative battery post. Remove fused jumper wire. Go to next step.
Note amperage draw. Draw will vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on the equipment package. Compare to a similar vehicle for reference. No factory equipped vehicle should have more than a 24-26 mA draw (0.024-0.026 amp).
If excessive current draw is present, pull fuses from battery/central junction box one at a time and note any current drop when each fuse is removed. DO NOT reinstall fuses until test is complete. Go to next step.
Check wiring diagrams for any circuits that run from battery without passing through battery/central junction box. Disconnect these circuits if current draw still exists.
GENERATOR LOAD TEST
Ensure drive belt is in good condition. Replace belt as necessary. If belt is okay, connect charging system load tester in accordance with manufacturer's instructions. Start and run engine at 2000 RPM, and apply load until generator output levels off. Generator amperage should be at least 75 amps, with engine at 2000 RPM.
If voltage is as specified, system is operating properly at this time. If voltage is not as specified, see SYMPTOM INDEX table under SYSTEM TESTS.
GENERATOR NO-LOAD TEST
Switch tester to voltmeter function. Connect voltmeter positive lead to B+ terminal on generator and negative lead to ground. Turn all electrical accessories off. Start and run engine up to 2000 RPM. Read voltmeter when voltage stabilizes. Voltage should be 13-15 volts.
Turn A/C system on. Turn blower speed to high. Turn headlights on to high beams. Voltage should increase a minimum of.5 volt. If voltage is not as specified, go to SYMPTOM INDEX table under SYSTEM TESTS. If voltage is as specified, charging system is operating normally.

Could be the alternator not putting out or there's a short circuit eating up the battery.

Not sure on if it's a computer controlled alternator or not, but I'd have the alternator checked and wire from battery to alternator for issues

It is computer controlled alternator

Check fuse no.34 15amp again it has a computer also called powertrain control module and see below

Repairing the charging system would be the logical next step. Make sure you check all the fuses and fusible links before changing the alternator.

I would go straight to an auto parts store (like Advance Auto Parts or Autozone)

Have them check the Battery (I know!) And the charging system. Your alternator may not be charging the battery (much or at all). The alternator could be bad, voltage regulator, or maybe a blown fuse or fried fusible link is preventing the charge from getting to the battery.

I may not be dead on, but I would start here first to eliminate this easy factor.

Should you need something, check out my link, this can be done on a new fangled phone in the parking lot.

Return here with good news!

The Medic

Check all cables are clean and tight, both ends! Check junction fuse box #9 10 amp and fuse #34 20amp, insepect the fusible links, they are on the solinoid near the battery.

Check fuses
also check charging system operation

Have the alternator checked. It sounds like a failed diode.

Royt

Cold be if the wiring harness is touching someplace which I kind of doubt. Cold be a crappy rebuilt alternator as well. Check your battery for condition including load test as this can effect it. Also alternator may have to small a charging rate for your application. Also meak sure belt and tensioner is in good shape and not to old.