My starter is not working to crank the engine over?

Hi,

First, make sure the battery you installed is charged, the battery cables are clean and tight, and there is nothing that appears damaged on the wiring.

Next, you indicated that it cranked slow. Is the slow cranking what caused it to be hard to start?

As far as the one click, if it is coming from the starter, either we have a weak connection, weak battery, or the starter is bad. Here is a link that explains how to check the starter. You will need a helper. Note that the larger wire on the starter has 12v at all times, so be careful when working around it. The smaller wire on the starter show only have 12v when the key is turned to the start position. If you have 12v to the smaller wire and everything I mentioned to check is good, replace the starter motor.

Here is the link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

If you find the starter is bad, here is a link that explains in general how one is replaced:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-starter-motor

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle for removal and replacement:

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1995 Ford Truck Explorer 4WD V6-245 4.0L
Removal and Installation
Vehicle Starting and Charging Starting System Starter Motor Service and Repair Procedures Removal and Installation
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
WARNING: WHEN SERVICING STARTER MOTOR OR PERFORMING ANY MAINTENANCE IN THE AREA OF THE STARTER MOTOR, NOTE THE HEAVY GAUGE INPUT LEAD CONNECTED TO THE STARTER SOLENOID IS HOT AT ALL TIMES. MAKE SURE THE PROTECTIVE CAP IS INSTALLED OVER THE TERMINAL AND IS REPLACED AFTER SERVICE.

REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
2. Raise and support the vehicle.
3. Disconnect starter cable and push-on connector from starter solenoid.

CAUTION: When disconnecting hard-shell connector at S terminal, grasp the plastic shell and pull off. Do not pull on wire. Be careful to pull straight off to prevent damage to the connector and S terminal. If any part of the connection is damaged, replace the damaged components.

4. Remove upper bolt.
5. Remove lower bolt.
6. Remove the starter motor from the vehicle.

INSTALLATION
1. Position starter motor to engine and install upper and lower bolt finger-tight.
2. Tighten the upper bolt to 22-28 Nm (16-21 Lb-Ft).
3. Tighten the lower bolt to 22-28 Nm (16-21 Lb-Ft).
4. Connect connector on starter solenoid. Be careful to push straight on and make sure connector locks in position with a notable click or detent.
5. Install starter cable nut to terminal. Tighten to 11-13 Nm (91-122 Lb-In).
6. Replace red safety cap.
7. Lower vehicle to floor.
8. Connect battery ground cable.

NOTE: When the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the powertrain control module relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 miles) or more to relearn the strategy.

_____________________________________

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Joe

Jeree,
A starter can go out at any time. My concern is that you say there is no power. Do you mean to everything including the horn, lights...

These guides can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Please run down these guides and report back.

If so, have you checked the battery with a volt gauge to see if it is producing at least 12+ volts? Is the ground going to the engine block clean and tight? Are the battery cables in good condition?

Let me know.

Joe

Check and test the transmission range switch

Rasmataz is correct. There are two hot wires at the starter. One is hot all the time, the other goes hot with key in the crank position.

So it cranks but won't start or on starter action?

Is it cranking over and will not start or just won't crank over when you turn key to cranking position?

Great news

Sounds like your starter is bad, theres no doubt its getting energy, it just may not be functioning properly.

Click and lose all power sounds like a bad connection from/at the battery. Clean all your cable ends and battery posts including where they go to car. What do you mean it sounds like a bearing is going out? Is the engine froze up? Did you mean alternator bearing? Lose all power sounds like starter is drawing too much amps or battery is not good! Or bad connections!

If that checks out good then take out starter and test.

Look at the battery connections and all the grounds around the radiator support. It sounds like a loose connection along with other issues.

What cap did he mess with?

Roy

More than likely it is the starter, but check all you battery cables first. If they are dirty, take them off the battery posts and clean them. If that doesn't work, check the connections at the starter. Make sure you are getting 12v on the main lug as well as the smaller ignition (trigger) wire. Get back to me what you find and we'll go from there.