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Engine is not cranking over - starter not working for me?

Tiny
CWE909
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 FORD EXPLORER
  • 110,000 MILES
Turn ignition to crank it will not start or turn over and no click sounds. Friend with me checked fuses seemed okay. Turned key to on crossed starter, engine turned over but would not start. He suggested either ignition switch bad or a neutral switch. Any ideas and to figure out if ignition switch or neutral switch? Can one or other be shorted out or crossed to narrow down problem, or does it sound like something else? Thanks guys.
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Friday, September 30th, 2011 AT 2:30 PM

58 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,397 POSTS
Hello,

There is a c1017 relay that works the starter that sounds like it has gone bad. Here is a guide that can help you confirm the failure and get the truck fixed:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

I would also check the fuses. Here is a guide for that and the starter and fuse panel diagrams (below).

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Check out the diagrams (below).

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers
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Friday, September 30th, 2011 AT 11:11 PM
Tiny
CWE909
  • MEMBER
  • 14 POSTS
Thanks for response. I am a firefighter and little busy. Wind up going to be Tuesday before I get to check out those fuses and relays. This car is my sons' and I am letting him use my extra vehicle temporarily. Until we get his figured out. Reply in a day or so. Thanks
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Monday, October 3rd, 2011 AT 8:42 PM
Tiny
CWE909
  • MEMBER
  • 14 POSTS
Okay folks, I checked relays/fuses under hood and in passenger compartment with an ohm meter. All checked to be good. Where do I go from here? Guess neutral switch I know it is on steering column I believe, did not see it in engine compartment unless it is under A/C compressor or under dash. Hmac300, please continue to advise.
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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 10:55 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Neutral switch could be one the transmission as well. I have not looked where it is. Try switching one of the relays that is like that see if that cures it. Then you know what it is.
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Wednesday, October 5th, 2011 AT 11:43 PM
Tiny
CWE909
  • MEMBER
  • 14 POSTS
Hmac300, tried alternating relays did not work. Going to replace ignition switch. Got bottom cover off see switch unplugged harness from it, but cannot figure out, switch has two push in clips to get it to release. Good news is one is on bottom that I can get to, bad news other clip is on top of switch and that I cannot figure out how to get to. Help.
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Saturday, October 8th, 2011 AT 5:28 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
I am sending a picture along it just says to release the two locking tabs and remove switch. I am also sending a picture of multi-function switch in case you need to take that out to get the ignition out. The multi function is turn signal, wiper, etc.
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Saturday, October 8th, 2011 AT 5:40 PM
Tiny
CWE909
  • MEMBER
  • 14 POSTS
Could not get to that screw without pulling steering wheel cover, and that is a definite no thanks. Finally got switch out, had to break it. Put new one in and guess what, it still will not crank! Okay what is next? I am guessing neutral switch and I read if I can find it, it can be jumped? What is the next step boss?
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Sunday, October 9th, 2011 AT 2:22 PM
Tiny
CWE909
  • MEMBER
  • 14 POSTS
Took car to Ford dealership. Problem was the PATS. Some how chip in key became corrupted and wiped out part of the pats programming. My son only received one key when he bought it, so Ford dealership hooked up to diagnostic computer and it went crazy. They were able to fresh flash computer and program a new key, and tossed the other to the side for unlocking only. Service manager has thirty five years under his belt and has only came across this type of problem. New PATS programming and new key and runs great. $112.00 key included. Whew!

Thank you and God bless you.
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Friday, October 21st, 2011 AT 7:45 PM
Tiny
KERNNY.WAMES69
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
05 explorer 4.0 just did a engine replacement got every thing hooked up but it won't crank or start but if I cross the starter it'll turn over. Message center on dash says engine service fail mode what ever that means any ideas?
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Friday, July 26th, 2019 AT 10:30 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,397 POSTS
It sounds like the security system is enabled. can you tell me if the security light is flashing when you try to crank the engine over? If so this guide will help you reset the system:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

We should run the codes as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Monday, July 29th, 2019 AT 11:00 AM
Tiny
RICARDO HARO
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2005 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 156,000 MILES
Quit running when doing a U turn, would not crank over but power was on. Replaced starter and battery three months ago and replaced key and had reprogrammed. So engine will not turn over but has power.
Any idea what it could be?
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Thursday, December 31st, 2020 AT 8:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,590 POSTS
Bad battery cables to the starter or ground, bad starter relay, blown fuse, faulty transmission switch or bad PCM.

First check fuses 12, 23 in the under hood junction box and fuse 29 in the left side fuse box under the dash. Use a test light and verify power at both sides of the fuse. Next check the starter relay in the under hood junction box. With the test light you should have battery voltage at pin 30, When the key is turned to start with the shifter in park or neutral you should now have battery voltage at two pins, 30 and 85.
If you only have power at the original pin 30 the transmission switch is faulty.

A quick check might help. Take a jumper wire and use it to jump between pins 30 and 87 in the starter relay socket. Make sure you have the correct pins, If the engine turns over now the battery cables, and fuse 12 is good.
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Thursday, December 31st, 2020 AT 8:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RICARDO HARO
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Okay thanks, I will check those.
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Thursday, December 31st, 2020 AT 8:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,397 POSTS
Please let us know what happens, we are interested too see what it is.

Cheers, Ken
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Thursday, December 31st, 2020 AT 8:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JOHN HOSKINS
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2004 FORD EXPLORER
  • 4.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,352 MILES
Engine will not crank. I checked all the fuses under the hood and relays tested them all. They are fine. I bought a brand new battery, still nothing. Lights, radio, blower etc, all work with the key on so I assume no ignition switch problem. I thought it might a security system issue. Tried 3 different methods to reset it (manually unlocking door, negative terminal off for 30 minutes and turning key for 10 minutes (did that 3 times, nothing worked). When I turn the key on I can barely hear a 'click' near the interior fuse box but that is all. I am trying one last method for the security system; disconnect the battery for 48 hours. This is a great SUV. It never has failed to start before. Shut it off one day and then won't start back.
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Thursday, December 31st, 2020 AT 8:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good afternoon,

The 48 hours will do nothing.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

What is the battery voltage?

How did you test the relays? Did you verify powers and ground controls especially for the starter relay?

I attached a diagram for you of the starting system.

Remove the relay and test for one pin for power with the key on. Then turn the key to start and see if there is another pin that is hot. Let me know the results.

Roy
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Thursday, December 31st, 2020 AT 8:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TEDDYTAPIZ91
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2004 FORD EXPLORER
  • 4.0L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 250,000 MILES
So one night the car had shut off after running into the gas station accidentally left the light on came out wouldn't start. Got a jump and it fired right up. The next morning the car would not start. No dash lights came on and the interior lights were very dim. No crank no nothing. We replaced the starter because the battery tested fine and still nothing.
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Thursday, December 31st, 2020 AT 8:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello,

This sounds to me like you have a dead battery. If you could do a quick check for me. With a Digital Multi-meter [DMM] could you take a voltage reading across the battery terminals. Here is a link on how to use a DMM if you are not familiar with how to use one below:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Please get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Thursday, December 31st, 2020 AT 8:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TEDDYTAPIZ91
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Battery reads 12.7.
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Thursday, December 31st, 2020 AT 8:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello again,

Okay, that's good. Now could you please check fuses 12 and 23 in the Battery Junction Box of your vehicle. I have included the location of the Battery Junction Box, it's fuse/relay layout with callout, and a wiring diagram of your vehicle's starting circuit in the diagrams down below. Please go through these guides and check the fuses and get back to us with what you find out. We can go from there. Here is a link below, if needed, on how to check a fuse:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-car-fuse-works

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Thursday, December 31st, 2020 AT 8:37 AM (Merged)

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