While driving engine shuts off

It is late night now. I did some test to check continuity for the 3 pins of the connector of the pressure switch/fuel pump control switch of my car. As you can see, it is a 3-wire connector to fit the 3-pins pressure switch attached to my cylinder head end. The colors are pale but look like (red- pink and brown). The brown wire gave no electricity as you can see in the images attached to this comment and what follows it, the rest of wires gave a (live) test but one wire made the test tool glow like a sun while the other made it glow faintly.

The 2nd test pin.

The 3rd and final test pin.

This is a great dispatch! I will take some time to go through the 3 attachments comparing the wires to my own, and yes it is (tan) color, I used the (brown) instead, I apologize for that, I am attaching a daytime photo for the 3 wires, the colors are pale since these are the original wires for a 26 years old automobile so I cared to make the connector visible too. I am so grateful for the great assistance you are providing, such a wonderful site that I needed to get acquainted with so long ago.
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Alternatively, when I dismantled the whole dashboard some 2 weeks ago and came out with that blue controller for chimes, I found one loose connector that is like a lone wolf, no mating part to find around the location where it was hanging down to the right side of the DLC and a bit deep near to the front side of the compartment. Any idea what is it? Does it relate to any component, controller or relay may be? I am attaching two other images for the DLC of my car, it had no live power in any of the 3 wires, hence the (no communication with scanner) that I used to get every time I be scanning through the DLC.

1- My car doesn't seem to have any alarm option, so the 3-wire male connector is not important as it looks an "extra accessory" here. The colors are (Orange=Blue- Grey if not tan as you described it, it is a pale color tone ). 2- The black with a white tracer wire pin in my DLC had a positive continuity test with ground. 3- Is ALDL the alternate term for DLC? 4- The link you provided: I once read this content but not that detailed as it is here. It would have been a great great thing to use but since my DLC doesn't have any pin/wire in the (B) terminal, how can I jumper it to the adjacent(A) terminal?

Awaiting your next reply I checked the Coolant Temperature Sending Unit ( to ECM), it has only one wire attached to its connector, another orphan wire is dangling right behind the engine and since I had replaced the Oxygen Sensor and attached it to the other dangling wire right there so the one left has been taken by me as relevant to the Coolant Temperature Sender Unit especially that it has 2-pins and its connector also has 2 pins. Am I right with that? I am trying my best to help myself amending all other faulty locations that might be relevant to the engine stalling, it has been a non-stop act so far. The attached images are(in sequence): My old Coolant Temperature Sender unit and the old connector with 1 wire only- The old and the replacement Coolant Temperature Sensor Units, they look the same both having a stamping of ( AC - 12 V) but the numbers facing the camera differ - The old Sender Unit connector ( with one wire only, the other wire has been cut off by an earlier mechanic work, only a few millimeters left of it- I soldered it to a piece of wire so the connector now has 2 wires to match the 2-pins Sender Unit).

Dear Joe,

You started with a diagram for that grey wire connections (attached here). The schematic diagram turned out to be for a (2-wire Oil Pressure Sensor/Connector) so you kindly started sending me 100% relevant schematics as to my very case of a 3-wires connector and sensor. The first schematic you sent (despite being for a 2-wire connector) had a beautiful tracking of the grey wire but it would then disappear at the top of the diagram, I needed to know where would that line for the grey wire be going since I have a grey wire coming from behind the engine to reach the Fuel Pump Relay but it is a dead wire with no voltage (this is the reason my electrician bypassed the ECM and fed the Fuel Pump Relay line via the ABS relay since it is a switch-live point- Sometimes we went as far as feeding the Fuel Pump relay via the hot end of the car battery to escape sudden stalling). Thought to be the same grey wire so I need to track it ( from the Oil Pressure Sensor connector all the way till it reaches the Fuel Pump Relay and the ECM, I need to check where the hell does it get dead. Can you provide that, with due gratitude and thanks for your invaluable information?

An advice in its most proper timing, I had been thinking of replacing it since I have another one but for some stupid reason I postponed that. I sensed what you are telling here once comparing the colors, while Joe referred to one of the 3 wires as (pink) it is here almost a ghost wire with no defined color. Seems like heat and aging had done a lot to this connector. I will replace it right now as I am in the midst of replacing the Coolant temperature Sending unit along with its connector and the other connector pertaining to the Coolant temperature Sensor, all neighbors as you surely know. Thank you dear Danny, a big thank you

I have already replaced the bad connector. This is the image for them both, you can see how what I called as Brown was indeed pink but so it looks (looked) to me.

Hi dear Danny,

Updating my car's stalling issue. It's been a few days since we last exchanged ideas and suggestions regarding this malfunction and I have been driving my car without stalling. The last thing(s) I ever made was cutting off that irksome and battered connector for the Fuel Pump Control/Oil Pressure Sensor and attaching a better one as well as replacing the Coolant Temperature Sender. Since I had no way of testing the latter, I simply replaced it using another sender for an Oldsmobile Cutlass Sierra engine, one that looked almost the same. Also, the Coolant Temperature Sensor had a connector with only one wire, the second (blue color) had been cut off by one reckless mechanic, I soldered a dangling wire behind the engine to that connector and also replaced the Oxygen Sensor as well as attaching its wire, another dangling wire behind the engine. The car mechanics I sought advice from all didn't have any idea about the first dangling wire, your interaction and support encouraged me to take the lead and reach out for those hard to reach places dismantling whatever came in front of me (coolant hose, intake air filter cover, harnesses for Ignition assembly and vacuum hose from brake assembly to intake manifold). I am testing the engine for a prolonged period this time, once I make sure all is okay. I will be sealing this thread with a final update ( he Check Engine yellow light is still on but since the DLC does not offer any way of reading data I am dropping this light for now. All I want is forget about those embarrassing stalling cases.

Day 1: The stalling occurred again after a 3 days break! Just how can it be okay for 3 days driving some 20-25 km each day and then the engine gets back to its malfunctioning status? Is it the ECM/PCM?

Joe: Kindly acknowledge: How/where to get a wiring schematic of the A/C relay? It used to work alright but today the thin red/pink wire that used to be (live) is dead now, only the blower works while the A/C compressor doesn't. The electrician used a short wire to get 12 VDC to the relay and there it worked, the A/C compressor engaged its clutch and it worked. He needs a wiring diagram to trace the relay wire and see where did the transition happened.

One question please. What are these three (seemingly) metal fuses extreme right of the Fusebox (Image attached)? The upper two look identical but the lower is of a different size (not interchangeable with the upper two)? What circuit does each of them control?