Runs with the shakes with bank 2 coil only but will shut off when I plug in bank 1 coil pack?

The coil packs on these trucks had a problem that would cause the issue you have described. here is how to change it out, also we should run the codes to see which codes are stored.

This guide should help us:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Check out the images (below). Let us know how it goes.

Hello, what scan tool are you using and what exact codes lead you to replace the coil packs? Not everything is good if it only half the cylinders are firing. What's the full list of all the codes you are getting?

Okay, so, it's staying in Open Loop on Bank 1. I assume it doesn't run long enough or does your scan tool show only the Fuel System 1 data PID? Some will show Fuel System 2 data PID for the other bank of the engine. Where did you get the coil packs you put on? And what led up to these faults occurring? Did you get both those codes set at the same time to begin with? Also, the 02's are they setting codes now too? They can cause an Open Loop fault like this; I have dealt with that before. One Bank showing a Fuel System fault and stayed in OL while the other Bank was going into closed loop operations.
Sorry for all the questions, I just like to get a little info on how this all started.

Hopefully one of the previous coils didn't short out and burn a coil driver inside the PCM. We can check for that later. You can check the resistance of each coil pack to make sure they are the same.

If they all test the same, the Primary's are the same and the Secondary's are the same, next I would check for continuity from the coil packs harness connector on each outside pin to ground. To see if there is a short to ground through the PCM on any of the coil control wires.

If that checks out ok, unplug the PCM connector and do the same test to check for shorts to ground in the harness between the coil packs and PCM, but with the PCM unplugged, that isolates the fault to the harness only.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

I would check the resistance of the coil packs if you bought used ones off of Ebay. These codes are coil circuit codes, the PCM is not detecting either any voltage or current on the coil control wires CD-1 (Ignition Coil A) and CD-2(Ignition Coil B). Start by checking for 12-volt on the middle wire of the coil pack connector, if there's power check the resistance of that coil pack. You can also hook a test light to battery positive and check for control on those 2 outer pins on the coil pack connector while cranking. What happens if you swap the coils, does it start at all?

Yeah, these coils that are only 2 wires with a power and control wire will burn out the power Mosfet (transistor) when the coil primary windings short out, it causes too much current to flow through the transistor and burns it out. On any 2 wire coils this is always an issue. I swap out the coil drivers as well since it's about a $3.00 part and only takes a little while to solder a new one in if the circuit board is not too badly burned. Hopefully they didn't charge you too much. I would recommend you get some new coils from Ford (OEM), so this doesn't happen again. There's always a chance with aftermarket or used coils or any sensor for that matter to be faulty.