Will not start, ECM/TCM/PCM codes?

Is the wire broken close to the connector? Can you take a picture? Since it's just a power feed, I usually use heat shrink crimp connectors to keep any moisture out in the future. These are what I use if there isn't room to solder a connection. You strip off about a 1/4in of insulation off the wire end, crimp the connector on, then heat the ends, it will shrink down on the wire. And the really good ones have a type of adhesive that seals the connector to the wire. I use a heat gun to shrink the connector down, but you can use a lighter just as long as you don't overheat the heat-shrink section. If the C133 connector is dirty inside, auto parts stores carry terminal cleaner, it's a spray you can use for inside the connectors that will evaporate, not leaving any harmful chemicals inside the bulk connector.
Take a picture of the connector so I can see how bad it is. I'm surprised you had any voltage reading at all.

Is that electrical tape all over that conduit? I'd take a look at the wiring under there, is that where the broken wire is? Looks in rough shape at the beginning of the connector.

When doing wiring repairs, and there's insulation that has been missing off the wire for a while, strip the insulation back to crimp a connector on make sure the wire hasn't gotten corroded inside the insulation further up. Even a small section of wire that's missing insulation can become corroded inside. The corrosion just grows up into the wiring, so be sure it's clean wire strains when doing the repair. I've had whole sections of wire corroded inside just from a pin hole in the insulation. Sometimes the wire is actually missing inside the insulation because the copper strains just disappeared. You want your repair to last so a in a couple months you don't run into the same issue again.

This is the pinout for that bulk connector with the wire coloring. Taking apart connectors like this is really difficult. The easiest, faster way is to just bypass the connector with new wiring, If the pins are pulling out of that connector like that, I think someone else has tried to fix it before and messed it all up. It doesn't look like there are many wires actually used in the connector if you look at the pinout.

Yes, to pull that connector apart and try to get all the pins tight again, and repair any wiring issues, you'll be at it for hours. Just match up the wiring, make sure you get the correct ones connected. Watch for corrosion inside. The other option is to try to get that connector from the dealership, If they even carry it.

Just get a roll of wire from an auto parts store, 14-gauge wire will handle about 15-amps of current, so maybe go with 12-gauge to be safe. It will multi strand copper wire. 12-gauge will handle 20-amps. Sorry for the slow response, I just got on here.

Yeah, I don't think there is anything on that connector that carries more than 20amps, I'll see if I can ID each pin, but I'm sure you'll be safe with 12. Actually, on the connector pinout diagram it shows that 14 gauge is the biggest wire in the connector, Ill post that for you to see, so you can use 14 or 12, the fuse is a 15amp fuse if I remember correctly, but those ignition coils won't pull 15 amps.
How did that wiring get so damaged? Does it look like rodents chewed the wires?

Okay, did you verify there's 12volts to each coil? And when you crimp those connectors, you have to make sure they are a solid connection. Did you do the entire connector of just the wires that has an issue?
Pin 9 is the fuel injector power feed, pin 16 powers the Cam Timing Solenoid, Purge Valve, Oxygen sensor heaters, EGR Motor,
Just need to figure out what pin 5 is for, but it sounds like there are other wiring issues going on. If that connector wiring was that bad, there has to be other wiring in the same condition. You've got 3 cylinder misfires, so if there is power to all the coils and injectors, then there has to be either wiring issues on the control side (ground) of those components, or the misfires are being caused by a vacuum leak, which is also causing the high idle.