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1997 Dodge Intrepid just a mess!

Tiny
R6RAINZ9
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 DODGE INTREPID
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 135,000 MILES
3.5 Liter

original message: I am a single mom on a very tight budget, and was given a 1997 Dodge Intrepid. The guy who gave it to me said he drove it to work one day and when he got off work, it wouldn't start and that it had previously overheated. He "says" someone "told" him that the water pump 'froze up' and that it would cost him $800.00 to fix it...
I personally don't have that kind of money, but thought maybe, it wasn't something SO costly. My son 'tinkers' with cars, so he is going to attempt to fix it for me so I can have a car again... I REALLY need this car, and it's the day before Christmas. This would be a wonderful Christmas present for me in these difficult times.... Can anyone give me suggestions to get this car running at an inexpensive cost... Such as, the first steps to take to find out why it won't start and why someone told him it's a 'frozen' water pump and will cost $800.00... Thanks a million!
******************************************


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/134169_Cristy20_2.jpg


First off, the previous owner said it was a "frozen" waterpump.
Hooked jumper cables for about 10 minutes, tried to crank it, it only pulled power from the truck. Didn't start.
Put a new battery in it and it didn't start. Made a click noise and could smell fuel. Lost charge on the battery. If we can't get it started, how can we find out what is wrong? What do I do to get it started? Could it be the starter or alternator and not the waterpump?
Oh, someone, anyone, please help!
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Saturday, December 29th, 2007 AT 12:51 PM

10 Replies

Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
[quote="r6rainz9"]Engine problem
1997 Dodge Intrepid 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 135000 miles

First off, the previous owner said it was a "frozen" waterpump.
Hooked jumper cables for about 10 minutes, tried to crank it, it only pulled power from the truck. Didn't start.
Put a new battery in it and it didn't start. Made a click noise and could smell fuel. Lost charge on the battery. If we can't get it started, how can we find out what is wrong? What do I do to get it started? Could it be the starter or alternator and not the waterpump?
Oh, someone, anyone, please help![/Quote
what is the engine size on it
do you have a timing belt or not
try removing all the drive belts(not the timing belt) and then try to crank it.
Check oil
let me know
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Saturday, December 29th, 2007 AT 1:25 PM
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
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From: r6rainz9
To: BMRFIXIT
Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 8:31 am
Subject: Re: help please
the engine is a 3.5 (i think), it is an Intrepid ES... And it does have a serpantine belt and a timing belt...
so if i take the serpantine belt off, it could start?

if you was told its a water pump
then the water pump drivin by the timing belt


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/99387_35_1.jpg

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Saturday, December 29th, 2007 AT 2:00 PM
Tiny
R6RAINZ9
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Took the Serpantine belt off and the water pump moves freely by hand. It still just clicks. Oil is very thick and black. (But it has been sitting for a few months). Starter? Or what now?
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Saturday, December 29th, 2007 AT 2:14 PM
Tiny
R6RAINZ9
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  • 6 POSTS
Son wants to know if it could be the solenoid?
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Saturday, December 29th, 2007 AT 2:53 PM
Tiny
ROWTIEAR
  • MEMBER
  • 91 POSTS
Tell your son to try and turn the engine over by hand using a socket and a power bar on the crankshaft pulley.
If the engine turns freely this will eliminate the possibility of the engine or waterpump being siezed.
If it does turn freely the problem is likely related to the starter.
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Saturday, December 29th, 2007 AT 3:03 PM
Tiny
OLDTECH2
  • MECHANIC
  • 64 POSTS
I'm with rowtiear about turning the engine with a bar and socket. If the engine turns, then the problem is likely to be starter, solenoid, or battery cable related. You can eliminate the belt driven accessories by removing the external belts. I've seen accesssories prevent an engine from turning over when they lock up.

The water pump is timing belt driven, and is not visible without removing the covers on the front of the engine. Is your son sure that he's looking at the water pump?

The diagram that BMRFIXIT included shows the front of the engine with the alt/ps and ac belts removed along with the harmonic balancer and front engine covers.

There should be 2 belts that are visible with the harmonic balancer. 1 drives the alternator and power steering pump with an idler as tensioner. The other drives the ac compressor with an idler as tensioner. Removing these belts is not going to show the water pump.

At this point, there's no reason to be concerned about black oil in the crankcase. Just make sure that the level is up. Once you get the engine running, then you can change the oil.
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Saturday, December 29th, 2007 AT 4:59 PM
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
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Check relay box it has a relay for the starter
i think water pump run by the timing belt check pic up
also do what suggested above
you may need to step back relax and start fresh form the basic up
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Saturday, December 29th, 2007 AT 7:41 PM
Tiny
R6RAINZ9
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  • 6 POSTS
Replaced the starter. Started once. Fuel injectors are loose and gas is leaking.
So what is the next step?
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Friday, January 4th, 2008 AT 3:32 PM
Tiny
OLDTECH2
  • MECHANIC
  • 64 POSTS
Is the fuel leak external where you see it spraying?

If so, the rail isn't bolted down right, or you've got injector o-rings blown. I'd bet that the car has been sitting, and the o-rings are blown. The injectors are pushed up into the rails, then the assy is popped into the intake and bolted down.

To get a good look, take the plenum off the top of the engine. It's the big aluminum "spider" on top of the engine. I've found that just about everything I do, I wind up with that off to get it out of the way. Make sure that you stick rags etc down the intake holes so you don't get a bolt or something down in the engine. Turn the key to "on" the fuel system should pressurize and the leak will be really visible. Keep in mind that the fuel system is pressurized and fuel will spray at any leak.

Congratulations on getting it to fire! You're getting close!
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Friday, January 4th, 2008 AT 3:46 PM
Tiny
DAVE'S BIG BACKYARD!
  • MECHANIC
  • 262 POSTS
It needs injector o rings and make sure the fuel rail is tight.
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Tuesday, April 5th, 2011 AT 11:44 PM

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