Check engine light on?

Tiny
MMIKE990
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
Yes my check engine light was on but has not come back since I replaced the TPS (about a 2 weeks ago). I'm sorry for being dumb here but how do I check the fuel pressure?
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MMIKE990
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
After looking through the online manual from mitchell1, I saw that I did NOT change the TPS I changed the Idle Air Control Motor. When I got the error code I was told to get something that sounded like a mix of the TPS and IACM. When I was looking around for the replacement there were a mixture of pictures and name for both so I figured different people called called the same part by a different name. But the diagram shows me that I CHANGED THE IACM NOT THE TPS.

Also I found a very helpful video on 2carpros. Com on checking for fuel pressure (You may have seen it. Just Kidding). Anyway, another thing I can't seem to find in the manual is the fuel pressure levels.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MMIKE990
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
For anyone following that hasn't seen my other post. I fixed my rough idle with a good throttle body cleaning and a quick trim of a vacuum line on the right of the throttle body! Hope it helps yall and thanks to the great people at 2carpros!

ALSO, I bought a guage and did a fuel test. Regular pressure should be btw 47 and 51 psi. Mine was at 42psi when key on but engine off and 50psi with engine on. I was not able to test the fuel pressure regulator becuase I cannot drop the gas tank at this time. Since it along with the fuel filter are above the tank :-(
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2000CHEVYMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 31 POSTS
  • 2001 DODGE DAKOTA
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 178,000 MILES
Curious to if anyone knows what is the resistance supposed to be for the plug wires, because the check engine light is on saying there is a misfire in one of my cylinders again. I have already replaced all the wires, spark plugs, and distribitor cap once, and the timing is correct as well. Just curious so I can check the wires to check and see if they are working correctly or not.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,711 POSTS
Hello,

If I am not mistaken I believe it is 1000 ohms per inch.

Is it the same cylinder misfiring?

Other causes of a misfire.

A weak spark (weak coil, bad spark plug wire), loss of compression, vacuum leaks, anything that causes an unusually lean fuel mixture (lean misfire), an EGR valve that is stuck open, dirty fuel injectors, low fuel pressure, or even bad fuel.
_________________
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2000CHEVYMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 31 POSTS
No its not the same cylinder and when I replaced everything my check engine light has been off for about 8 or 9 months now and has just recently come back on with another cylinder misfire other than the 2 originally before everything was replaced
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,711 POSTS
Other causes of a misfire.

A weak spark (weak coil, bad spark plug wire), loss of compression, vacuum leaks, anything that causes an unusually lean fuel mixture (lean misfire), an EGR valve that is stuck open, dirty fuel injectors, low fuel pressure, or even bad fuel.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARIDIOT01
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2001 DODGE DAKOTA
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 105,000 MILES
The truck is having a hard time switching gears, which seems to be causing the truck to work too hard. It is buring fuel like crazy, and now it's over heating. The "check engine" light went on. We did a transmission tune up, but the light only turned off for a day or two after that. What could the issue(s) be?
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
It sounds like two different issues. First, as far as the engine temp, make sure the coolant is full and clean. Also, has the thermostat ever been replaced?

As far as the transmission, if it isn't shifting soon enough, it could be over reving the engine causing it to overheat.

Now the trans, there are a few things. It could be the trans countrol module (TCM), a bad shift solenoid, or it may be time for an overhaul. Can you describe what it is doing?

Joe
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARIDIOT01
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Like my screen name says I am an Idiot when it comes to vehicles I just drive it, so I can try to describe what is going on, but I don't know the car Lingo.

Any time that I am driving on the street it take a while for the car to actually get into another gear, it's revving for sure trying to change gears. When I am on a highway or freeway driving at a steady fast pace it seems to be easier on the vehicle because all of the revving stops and it's a bit smoother. A friend said that it seems as though the vehicle is driving in 1st or 2nd gear the whole time. I don't know what any of it means. It might be easier to just throw it over a cliff, and get a new one. (Just kidding). Thanks for your help I really appreciate it. Is there a physical address that I can send a donation to? I'm old skool none of this online payment stuff.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DIXIEREV
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2001 DODGE DAKOTA
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 149,000 MILES
Recently my truck has started roughly. At first warming up the rpms will go up then settle down, go up settle down while driving, Today seemed to be running fine when I came to several hills and coasting down hill rpms would go to nothing and the truck would shut off. Put it in neutral, started back up to next coasting place. Then the check engine light came on.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,873 POSTS
Read and record the diagnostic fault codes. Chrysler makes that real east to do yourself. Cycle the ignition switch from "off" to "run" three times within five seconds without cranking the engine, leave it in "run", then watch the numbers show up in the odometer display.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PAULVS
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • DODGE DAKOTA
2001 Dodge Dakota. 69,000 miles. The check engin light came on and I read the code as "oxygen sensor". After a couple weeks the light went off. Was it a short? Do I need to replace the sensor? Thanks
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RONK
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Not sure how similar they are - but my 2001 Monte Carlo LS did the same thing. It turned out to be a loose gas cap - actually it was cross threaded. I reseated the cap, and after about an hour of driving the light went off.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LSUSSEL
  • MECHANIC
  • 252 POSTS
In most GM cars if the gas cap is loose or the the electrical system gets wet, the check engine light will go on and then after its fixed or the cap is on tightly what have you, it should go off. Many things can cause this light to go on, but if you came up with the code o2 sensor ( oxygen sensor ) then you should check and replace the o2 sensor. But also check and make sure the gas cap is secure.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FLATTOP1
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2000 DODGE DAKOTA
  • 96,000 MILES
Always says check to see if gas cap is on tight or there maybe a vacuum leak. This is the 3rd time in the last 18 months and I have replaced cap twice. My mechanic cannot determine where the vacuum leak is and also do you check for one. I'm trying to keep from taking it the dealer ship. Also vehicle runs fine.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PROMECHANIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 536 POSTS
You need to find a mechanic that has a "smoke machine" this is a machine that can introduce smoke into the system which will then leak out wherever the leak is.
You might also have a purge solenoid that has gone bad. This is sometimes that cause of your problem.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,544 POSTS
Ck the dealer for bullitins to
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TEDWRIGHT
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Look under the truck at the Charchol Canister it has a few vaccume lines coming and going and that is sensitive if any are dry rotted it will cause a leak in the fuel pressure system and throw a MIL light
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:03 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NORCAL
  • MEMBER
  • 23 POSTS
I had the same thing in my 99 sport. I checked the char can and noticed I had a crack on the housing for my gas tank that wasn't very big but after throwing some epoxy on it. FIXED. Moral of story. Look around the canister and gas tank housing for any cracks. Mine was only about an inch big.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 12:03 PM (Merged)

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