Engine turns over, no spark

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,870 POSTS
Dandy. I always find it interesting how people track down problems and find them. Hope you've found the solution.

Caradiodoc
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Monday, August 12th, 2019 AT 12:30 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KNOTUPTOIT
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I have a similar issue with my 95 Dakota 318. No spark. No fuel pump. In the wiring harness to the PCM on the right inner fender, remove the wire loom covering to access the wiring harness. Locate the 18 gauge blue w/ yellow stripe wire. Carefully nick the wire and attach a temporary ground from the blue/yellow wire to the chassis. This bypasses the relay in the PCM that grounds the shut down relay. If it starts and runs then you will either need to purchase a rebuilt PCM because the relay is getting hot. Or do like I did. Make the ground pertinent.
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Monday, August 12th, 2019 AT 12:30 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DIRTRIDER501
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Yup believe it or not that is what it was! I put a new coil on it and left the oxygen sensors unplugged fires right up! I plug the oxygen sensors in and no fire! Well shes running again without oxygen sensors but I will put those in tomorrow. Thanks for your answers.
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Monday, August 12th, 2019 AT 12:30 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,870 POSTS
VERY bad idea. If you're losing fuel pump, spark, and injector pulses, it's because you're losing the signal from the crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft position sensor. Both of those very commonly fail by becoming heat-sensitive, then they work again after cooling down for about an hour, like was described originally. The purpose of the ASD relay that sends current to all of these circuits is to prevent a fire, and you defeated that. The Engine Computer turns the ASD relay on for one second when the ignition switch is turned on, then again any time it sees engine rotation, (cranking or running). In the event a fuel line gets ruptured in a crash, your fuel pump is going to keep on pumping raw gas onto the ground, creating that fire hazard. What should happen is with a ruptured fuel line, there can't be any fuel pressure. The engine can't run with no fuel pressure. When it stalls, the signals stop arriving from the two sensors, and that tells the computer to turn the ASD relay off. That stops the fuel pump even though the ignition switch is still on.

One of the biggest problems with new crankshaft position senors is their air gap is critical. There is a thick paper spacer glued to the end or a thin plastic rib molded to the end, to set that gap. I'll never admit that I thought I was too good to need that spacer after reinstalling the old sensor after replacing the transmission. The sensor worked fine for two weeks, then started causing intermittent stalling problems. That shouldn't be a problem with a new sensor since they usually come with a spacer already installed, but it bares mentioning given the original description of the problem.

Also be aware there were a few engines in a few years that could run on just one of the sensors as long as the ASD relay was bypassed like you did. The computer would not turn the ASD relay on with one missing signal. So you had to do that manually. There's a real easy way to start the diagnosis. Just listen for the hum of the fuel pump for one second when you turn on the ignition switch. If you can't hear it over the noise of the chime, you can also measure the voltage feeding the ignition coil, any injector, or either smaller terminal on the back of the alternator. Most commonly that is a dark green / orange wire. Use a test light, not a digital voltmeter. Most voltmeters don't respond fast enough to catch that one-second pulse. If you hear the fuel pump or see that 12 volts, you're done in that circuit. The Engine Computer turned the ASD relay on and has control of it. Now the issue is why isn't it turning that relay back on during cranking, and that will be because the signal is missing from one of those two sensors.

If you have access to a scanner, you can approach this the way a mechanic would. Both sensors will be listed on the live data screen with a "No" or "Present" during cranking to show if their signals are showing up. A failed sensor should be detected and a fault code is set, but that often doesn't happen just from cranking the engine. It's common for the code to only set while a stalled engine is coasting to a stop. This is where the scanner is needed when there is no fault code directing you the circuit that needs further diagnosis.
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Monday, August 12th, 2019 AT 12:30 PM (Merged)
Tiny
D13 MACHINE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2000 DODGE DAKOTA
  • 3.9L
  • V6
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 113,000 MILES
I have recently purchased this truck it is a 3.9L v6 four wheel drive. When I got the truck it had a pretty bad leak in the exhaust by the connection of the manifold to he pipe. There was also a leak in the steering rack in pinion line. I had fixed those two issues but it also had a check engine light on which read that it was running lean.

I thought I would clean out the throttle body and put in new spark plugs. After cleaning out the throttle body I put in new spark plug on three of the six cylinders because the other side was rusted to the point that I could not get the socket around them.

The next day after changing the spark plugs I tried to start it up. I could not get a spark. I bought a spark plug tester and determined that there was no spark from any of the spark plugs.

I checked the ignition coil and was also no getting any voltage with the tester.

I hooked up a multi-meter and checked the voltage when I started the car up and it would start out with a voltage and quickly diminish to 0.

I have checked all of the fuses and nothing has blown. It does not make sense that after merely cleaning out the throttle body and changing 1/2 of the spark plugs that I would get no spark from anywhere.

I am not sure that when I was messing with the spark plugs that I could have shorted or ground something.

I have read that it could be the crank shaft position sensor but I wanted to get your guys opinion on it before I went out and bought it. It just seems odd that a sensor like that would go out when I am changing spark plugs because it was firing just fine before I started to tRyan to fix the "running lean" issue.
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Monday, August 12th, 2019 AT 12:30 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Make sure all fuses under hood are check with no corrosion on them then check ASD relay then if you can scan for codes.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-cranks-excessively-before-starting
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Monday, August 12th, 2019 AT 12:30 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RENEE L
  • ADMIN
  • 1,260 POSTS
Hi D13 MACHINE,

Here is a link to an article that features written step by step instructions and pictures explaining how to do the scan yourself, also I have included a link to our YouTube channel with a how to video on code scanning. Most scanners are inexpensive to purchase, you can purchase one online from sites like Amazon.com. Once you have the codes please get back to us so that we can further assist you. We are always happy to help.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

Thank you for visiting 2CarPros.com.

Kindest regards,

Renee
Admin
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Monday, August 12th, 2019 AT 12:30 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BIGBADASBO
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1988 DODGE DAKOTA
I have a 1988 dodge dakota I can get the engine to rotate but will not start. I am getting fuel to the throttle body and I have replaced the coil, pickup coil, ran all new grounds, replaced distributor cap, rotor button. I ran several tests to determine that I am getting power from computer to coil and from coil to distributor but no spark from distributor what could be the problem?"
should I try replacing the distributor itself or could it be another problem?
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Monday, August 12th, 2019 AT 12:30 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SMACKDADDY
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Did you replace the spark plug wires? I had the same problem, checked the resistance of the wires and they were at 3,000 ohms, right at the limit of the range. Replaced the wires, rotor, cap and it started up fine. If you're getting spark to the distributor, then its the wires or plugs.
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Monday, August 12th, 2019 AT 12:30 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BIGBADASBO
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I changed the wires but not the plugs I will try that.
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Monday, August 12th, 2019 AT 12:30 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SISSYEM
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1993 DODGE DAKOTA
Engine Mechanical problem
1993 Dodge Dakota V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 93.000 miles

i have no spark to start engine it will turn over but just is not getting any spark to start truck I have tried everything. It was fine and then I got stucks on the road as it just stopped
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Monday, August 12th, 2019 AT 12:30 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
Welcome to the forum, with engine cranking, check for primary voltage to the coil and injectors, dark green wire with orange tracer. Check for codes.
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Monday, August 12th, 2019 AT 12:30 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GARFRANKY
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2001 DODGE DAKOTA
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 90,000 MILES
After replacing Distributor, pickup module, wires, cap, rotor and coil we still have no spark. Testing lead wires to coil with switch on shows no power to coil. Someone suggested checking the crankshaft sensor but we haver to this moment been unable to locate the darn thing. Any suggestions or direction would be greatly appreciated.
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Monday, August 12th, 2019 AT 12:30 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Inspect and test the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors.Location-see below:


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_cmp_1.gif


The Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor is located in the distributor.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_ckp_1.gif


The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor is located near the outer edge of the flywheel (or starter ringear).
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Monday, August 12th, 2019 AT 12:30 PM (Merged)

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