Headlights not working

Just found the service manual. This procedure is different than what I remembered:

ACTUATOR CALIBRATION TEST

Set blower motor on High.

Set Mode position to Panel.

Open all AC outlets.

Set temperature to cold.

Press Wash and Rear Wiper buttons at the same time for five seconds until all leds flash.

All leds will turn on for five seconds.

The calibration test is running when the Rear Wiper and Intermittent leds are flashing alternately.

Acceptable result is the Rear Wiper led is the only one flashing. Press Rear Wiper to exit. At this point, the calibration and cooldown procedures can be run separately.

COOLDOWN TEST

Set the blower motor on High.

Set mode to Panel.

Open all AC outlets.

Set the temperature to cold.

Press Wash and AC at the same time. (See note at the end).

Then there's a note in the manual that says the test will fail if the ac evaporator is already cold. HUH? "To correct, operate system with AC OFF and the blower motor on high for three minutes prior to starting the test". That's probably why I remember putting the temperature to hot before starting this test.

All leds will turn on for five seconds.

Cooldown test is running when AC and Recirc. Leds are flashing alternately. If they flash at the same time, the test has failed.

To abort the test, press the Rear Defogger, Recirc, and Rear Wiper buttons or cycle the ignition switch off and back on.

The manual doesn't say what to do next, but as I recall, if the test passes, only the AC led will be flashing. Press it to exit the procedure.

Note: For the Cooldown test, the manual say to "Press Wash and AC at the same time". Later, it says "Cooldown test is running when AC and Recirc leds are flashing alternately". To start the test, I think they meant press the AC and Recirc buttons, not the AC and Wash buttons. Try it both ways if you have to.

Caradiodoc

Sorry, that previous comment was for a different post.

For your headlights, do you have fog lights and do they work? If they do, both of your low beam headlamp bulbs are burned out. Pulling on the dimmer switch and holding it turns on the high beams.

There are four separate fuses for the headlights. The fog lights also run off two of the fuses, so blown fuses would affect them too. It's unlikely two fuses would blow at the same time.

There are two headlamp relays. Try switching the high beam and low beam relays. If only the low beams work now, the other relay is defective.

The low beam relay is controlled by the Daytime Running Lamp Module for Canadian vehicles, or the Body Control Module for U.S. Vehicles. Great! Another over-complicated, unreliable computer to perform a simple operation. Now's the time to pay up for another unnecessary computer! Let's hope it's just a relay or two bulbs.

The headlight switch sends a voltage to the Body computer; the Body computer grounds the low beam relay. From looking at the diagram, it looks like the high beam relay uses common sense and is simply grounded to the body, so the high beams should still work if the Body computer is defective.

Replacing the Body computer is not a do-it-yourself project. It is bolted to and plugged into the Junction Block above the brake pedal. Try the relays and bulbs first.

Caradiodoc

With a voltmeter or test light, test the headlight circuits.

1. Remove driver-side headlight socket from the headlight, and test the connector. My understanding is that at low beam, driver OFF passenger ON. At high beam, driver ON passenger OFF.
* (Test low beam) With the headlight switch at ON position, attach the positive probe to white/dark blue and the negative to black/light green wire. If you have voltage, replace the bulb.
* (Test high beam) Turn high beam ON. Positive probe to white/light green wire and negative to black/light green wire. You SHOULD have voltage.

2. Remove the passenger-side headlight socket from the headlight, and repeat test.
* (Test low beam) Headlight switch ON, attach positive probe to white/tan wire and negative probe to black/tan wire. Assuming my understanding, you SHOULD have voltage.
* (Test high beam) Turn the high beam on. Positive probe to white/gray wire and negative to black/tan wire. If you have voltage, replace the bulb.

Reason: Your headlight bulb contains 2 filaments, one for low and one for high beams. It just so happens that yours burned out the opposite way.

If you don't have voltage where you SHOULD HAVE HAD voltage, your headlight switch is defective.

Let us know.

It sounds like the IPM has gone out here is how you can fix the problem.

You need to replace both bulbs. Your headlight bulb is 9007 which has dual filaments. Filament A for low beam, and filament B for high beam. In your case, your driver side bulb has the filament A burned out, and your passenger side has the filament B burned out. Make sure that you don not touch the glass while replacing those bulbs.

I don't see any relay or fuse controlling the headlight system, except for fog lights. Fog light operation does not affect your regular headlight or your daytime running light. Everything is controlled by Intelligent Power Module located at left side of engine compartment. If you have replaced the bad headlights with new one, and it only works one-sided, you may have to ask the dealer to check the IPM.

Ok so youre dash lights & tail lights dont work. I would first take a look into youre fuse panel to see if any of those are blown, Then I would replace youre bulbs to see if that does anything to correct the problem. If not, Then you have to try to find what colored wires go to what bulb, Then check wiring for cracks or corroided wires, In which then have to be replaced.

Good Luck.