Engine Overheating

Tiny
BRITTNEY NICHOLE
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  • 8 POSTS
Both of my heads are cracked one head had 3 cracks and the other had 6. Gotta find a motor or a new set of heads.
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Friday, May 26th, 2017 AT 6:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,005 POSTS
THE ONLY THING I COULD ADD TO THIS IS MAYBE YOUR FANS ARE WORKING INTERMITTENTLY--POSSIBLE RELAY GOING BAD

SEE MY LINK FOR SOME OTHER POSSIBILITIES

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1992-ford-f-250-engine-overheating

KEEP US INFORMED

MERRY CHRISTMAS

THE MEDIC
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Friday, May 26th, 2017 AT 6:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BRITTNEY NICHOLE
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  • 8 POSTS
I have one last question. There is a box type on the side of the front head, well we took them and had them cleaned and looked at when we picked up the heads that little box was gone. Can you tell me what it is called? My boyfriend said if he's not mistaking it goes to the intake. It's just a small black box. When I called the place back they acted like they didn't know what I was talking about. I need that part to fix my van.
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Friday, May 26th, 2017 AT 6:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DODGEINMEXICO
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  • 4 POSTS
Rasmataz,
Can you give me an indication of where the cooling system bleed valve is? It is not shown in the owners manual (I don;t have a service manual) and I cannot seem to find an engine diagram anywhere on the net.

From what I have read, if the water pump is working, the top hose should get warm when running. Is this correct? If so, the pump is working as the top hose gets warm.

Also, should the water/coolant in the radiator be moving a lot as the car runs? Mine seems to move up and down a little but no running of liquid.

The Medic,
I can hear the fans running as soon as the car gets over half temperature and they proceed to get louder as the car gets hotter. They work constantly and consistently as the vehicle gets warmer than halfway. I will actually check them out today though.

I will check out the other solutions you provided for the Ford as well.

CHeers

DiM
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Friday, May 26th, 2017 AT 6:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
Those cracks concern me. You know they didn't all show up at the same time, so there were no symptoms or problems at first. There are some Chrysler engines that are known to develop small cracks in places that are of no significance, and those don't warrant replacing the heads or engine. Also, if that was a common problem, you'd risk developing the same problem with a used engine. The 3.3s just don't have that many problems.

I'll look at my older vehicles later, but I can't picture the box you're looking for. I have to think about that for a while.
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Friday, May 26th, 2017 AT 6:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DODGEINMEXICO
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  • 4 POSTS
Hi all,

It's fixed. Turns out the inlet/outlet reservoir on the side of the radiator is supposed to have a divider in it which I presume is to divert the incoming water into the radiator fins and then when the water cycles back from returning at the other end it forces the water to go out the outlet pipe rather than back around the radiator. Well, this was missing so water/coolant coming into the radiator could simply go straight back out the outlet without going through the fins.

This raises questions as to where it went because it didn't even look corroded. It was simply gone. Anyway, this is Mexico! And at least we have a new thermostat and temp sensor and a compression test has revealed all is good there.

Phew! And thanks for your help!

DiM
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Friday, May 26th, 2017 AT 6:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DODGEINMEXICO
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Hi all,

It's fixed. Turns out the inlet/outlet reservoir on the side of the radiator is supposed to have a divider in it which I presume is to divert the incoming water into the radiator fins and then when the water cycles back from returning at the other end it forces the water to go out the outlet pipe rather than back around the radiator. Well, this was missing so water/coolant coming into the radiator could simply go straight back out the outlet without going through the fins.

This raises questions as to where it went because it didn't even look corroded. It was simply gone. Anyway, this is Mexico! And at least we have a new thermostat and temp sensor and a compression test has revealed all is good there.

Phew! And thanks for your help!
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Friday, May 26th, 2017 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ANSONC31
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • DODGE CARAVAN
I have a dodge grand caravan. It has 122000 miles. It has started to overheat during ideling. I has also got hot while driving but will go back to normal after a while.
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Friday, May 26th, 2017 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
EDENNIS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I have a Dodge Caravan also, and I am also having the same problem.
Van overheats though at high speeds, but will go down if I drive 65 mph and under. Also, engine will over heat if I run the airconditioner.
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Friday, May 26th, 2017 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,005 POSTS
DO ME A FAVOR AND SEND A FEW PICS OF THIS DIVIDER---BUT PICS THAT CAN EZily BE SORTA INTERPRETTED BY A 1ST GRADER!----IS IT REMOVABLE? OR IS IT BROKE OUT?

GOOD PICS AND POINT AT IT (I'VE POSTED 12 BEFORE) SO AS MANY AS YOU LIKE!---THIS MAY HELP US IN THE FUTURE

THE MEDIC
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Friday, May 26th, 2017 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BPRICE443
  • MEMBER
  • 66 POSTS
It sounds like your radiator is partaily pluged inside. Drain the system out and look for peices of metal. Try using a system flush kit and flushing out your cooling system. Also make sure there is not a bunch of dirt or anything blocking airflow to radiator. It may also be a thermistat but not likly.

Good luck

brian
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Friday, May 26th, 2017 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RAZZYRIPPLE
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
It was overheating on me today, I made sure it was full of coolant. It kept rising again, so I turned the def on and it kept it cooled till I got home, but was runnin real sluggish and burned alot of gas coming home. What could my problem be? Thermostat? Cooling fans? Cooling fan relay? Water pump?

What would make it heat up but by turnin on def would make it run cool?

Thought maybe my thermostat could be stuck shut.

The diagnostic codes indicate EGR needs replaced, could the EGR fouling out or stopped up cause it to heat up?

Have to get this fixed cause I work a distance away from home. HELP!
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Friday, May 26th, 2017 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BPRICE443
  • MEMBER
  • 66 POSTS
The egr valve can cause the engine to run hot. Plus that explans the van running kinda slugish.I would definatly replace the egr valve. I would also let the van run with hood up let the motor warm up and make sure the engine fan is running when the motor warms up.
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Friday, May 26th, 2017 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RAZZYRIPPLE
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
I did the hood up thing and the fan is kicking on. Should I put a pressure release valve radiator cap on it? Getting the egr valve today. When get this put on I should get the codes reset right?
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Friday, May 26th, 2017 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BPRICE443
  • MEMBER
  • 66 POSTS
It won't hert to put the cap on and yes get the codes cleared when you replace the egr valve. That way if any codes come up you know they are new
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Friday, May 26th, 2017 AT 6:52 PM (Merged)

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