Engine not starting up?

Good evening,

The most likely cause of this is the idle air control valve. It is not sitting in the correct position for starting.

When you inspect it, make sure the bore is clear of all carbon deposits.

Roy

SYSTEM DESCRIPTION
The idle speed of the engine is controlled by the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve.
The valve changes the amount of air bypassing into the intake manifold in response to electric current controlled by the ECM/PCM. When the IAC Valve is activated, the valve opens to maintain the proper idle speed.

1. After the engine starts, the IAC valve opens for a certain time. The amount of air is increased to raise the idle speed about 150-300 rpm.
2. When the coolant temperature is low, the IAC valve is opened to obtain the proper fast idle speed. The amount of bypassed air is thus controlled in relation to the engine coolant temperature.
3. When the idle speed is out of specification and the scan tool does not indicate Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0505 or P1508, check the following items:
Adjust the idle speed
Air conditioning signal
ALT FR signal
Starter switch signal
A/T gear position signal
PSP switch signal
Brake switch signal
Fast idle thermo valve
Hoses and connections
AC valve and its mounting 0-rings

4. If the above items are normal, substitute a known-good IAC valve and readjust the idle speed.
If the idle speed still cannot be adjusted to specification (and the scan tool does not indicate DTC P0505 or P1508) after IAC valve replacement, substitute a known-good ECM/PCM and recheck. If symptom goes away, replace the original ECM/PCM.

Sounds like a plan.

You are welcome.

Always glad to help.

Roy

Okay, try and see if it takes care of it. That alone should not cause it to not start.

It should also have set a code for that as well.

Did it set a code?

Roy

Okay, the 113 is your broken sensor.

The 135,141 are O2 sensor heater codes. I attached some possibilities below along with a flow chart for determining the failure.

These codes are not related to the hard starting either.

Roy

Did you follow the flow chart I posted?

Tell me the results of each step?

Roy

Keep me updated.

Roy

These cars had a big problem with the distributor going out. also go here for more info

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

That being said, this car is notorious for intermittent main relays acting up in different weather conditions. It will knock out power supply to both ignition coil and injectors.

Welcome to 2CarPros

There are many things that can cause this to happen. However, based on your description, I would like you to check if there is spark to the plugs. Here is a link that shows how it is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

If you find no spark, my first suspect is the crankshaft position sensor. Take a look at this link.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

Check to see if there is spark to the plugs let me know what you find.

As far as fuel, yes, it could be related, but usually it's all or nothing with a pump. If you want to check it, here is a link that shows how to check for pressure:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Here are directions specific to your vehicle for testing fuel pressure. The manufacturer's specs are included in the directions. Pic 1 correlates with these directions.

1. Relieve fuel pressure.
2. Remove the service bolt on the fuel filter while holding the banjo bolt with another wrench. Attach the special tool.
3. Start the engine. * Measure the fuel pressure with the engine idling and the vacuum hose of the fuel pressure regulator disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator and pinched.

Pressure should be: 304 - 353 kPa (3.1 - 3.6 kgf/cm2, 44 - 51psi)

See Pic 1

4. Reconnect vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator.

Pressure should be: 245 - 294 kPa (2.5 - 3.0 kgf/cm2, 36 - 43 psi)

*: If the engine will not start, turn the ignition switch on, wait for two seconds, turn it off, then back on again and read the fuel pressure.

If the fuel pressure is not as specified, first check the fuel pump. If the fuel pump is okay, check the following:

- If the fuel pressure is higher than specified, inspect for:
Pinched or clogged fuel return hose or line.
Faulty fuel pressure regulator.
- If the fuel pressure is lower than specified, inspect for:
Clogged fuel filter.
Faulty fuel pressure regulator.
Leakage in the fuel line.

_________________________________________________

If you haven't already scanned for diagnostic trouble codes, I recommend it.

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Hello,

This could be a problem with your vehicle's Idle Air Control (IAC) valve.This valve let's air bypass your closed throttle plate at idle to keep your vehicle's engine idling.It is mounted on the rear of the engine on the side of the throttle body. In the diagrams down below I have included a diagram with the IAC location, as well as factory component tests to make sure the IAC is failing. The phrase KOEO stands for Key On Engine Off and you will need to use a Digital Multi-meter (DMM) to do these tests, so here is a link below for you to go to explaining how to use one, if needed:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Please go through these guides and report back with what you find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start . . . When problem occurs, use the steps as outlined in above link to determine what is missing causing the non starting and post your findings here. Is the Check Engine Light indicating?