They're both right. The diagram shows both versions. Without cruise control, the engineers are relying on the little horn switch to carry the high horn current.
If I understand correctly, the alarm module provides a grounding circuit to activate the horn. That would be to ground the horn relay's control terminal, same as would be done in the truck if it had cruise control and the horn relay. It looks to me like you would need to add a relay to the original circuit, then you would have that relay coil terminal to ground.
I'm including a drawing I made of the most common relay terminals. The upper left one is the easiest to find in any salvage yard. You can use universal crimp-type terminals, and let the relay hang by the wires. There are also aftermarket versions with a mounting tab built into the relay's cover.
If you aren't sure how to wire this, I can figure something out. Part of the problem is now your circuit switches the 12 volts on to sound the horn. It needs to be modified so that 12 volts is always there, and the ground side of the relay is switched on by the horn switch, then it can also be switched on by the anti-theft module.
There's an easier way. You can actually leave the original circuit alone, and just add the relay. You'd end up with everything in the first diagram, except the lower left horn switch in the "speed control switch assembly" simply wouldn't be there. Instead, the wire they show going to it, a yellow / light green in this case, would be the grounding circuit from the anti-theft module. Both your original horn switch and the new relay could switch the 12 volts onto the horns.
Images (Click to make bigger)
SPONSORED LINKS
Tuesday, April 2nd, 2024 AT 5:09 PM