Clunking, banging, shaking and feels like the tire is going to come off

Tiny
GENESIS88
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I don't want to tow car to get alignment just incase it isn't fixed. I rather do a home alignment, test drive then get it done if all is well. I let a friend help who doesn't know much. He just told me he turned steering wheel when everything was disconnected. He kept putting it back to center. He also said he adjust the tie rod when I got something from inside. So everything is off. I was able to find the old inner outer tie rods. They are same brand same everything. I matched the tread count as a starting point but steering is extremely off. Lock to lock it's roughly 3.3 turn roughly so 1.65 to 1.70 I think it should be 3.25 if I remember so rack is not off to much if at all. Any tips on getting everything lined up. I've done alignment at home couple if times and never had a issue.
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Sunday, April 18th, 2021 AT 5:20 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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As far as an alignment, I honestly never did one at home. I've always had the vehicle on an alignment rack, so I'm not sure what to tell you.

I'm glad to hear you got the mounts taken care of. I don't think I've ever seen one as bad as the one in the pic you sent.

Regardless, if you have a chance, let me know how it drives after the alignment. I'm interested in knowing.
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Sunday, April 18th, 2021 AT 6:25 PM
Tiny
GENESIS88
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I did break pads on right side. I adjusted tie rods and it started to do it again. I was paying a lot of attention to the left I over looked the right side. It looks like the upper control arm is bad. Plus the lower ball joint. It's looks like the tire is rubbing also I noticed the brake shield was hitting nut for ball joint. You think that can be part of the problem the tire is shifting forward and causing things to rub and making the knock.
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Monday, April 19th, 2021 AT 7:12 AM
Tiny
GENESIS88
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Also something very weird happened after I dropped car; I started to turn wheel right the car started to roll. I'm not talking about just a little movement from turning wheel. It actually was rolling about 6 inches maybe 8.
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Monday, April 19th, 2021 AT 7:29 AM
Tiny
GENESIS88
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I shortened and edited the video and brought up sound. It's only 2 seconds long. You can really hear the noise now. It almost sounds metallic like something is hitting or causing exhaust to move.
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Monday, April 19th, 2021 AT 4:11 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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I do hear it. It does sound like a metallic sound but more like thin metal. Is anything hitting the backing plate behind the rotor? Also, you mentioned the control arm and a ball joint. What did you do to check it?

Let me know.

Joe
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Monday, April 19th, 2021 AT 5:05 PM
Tiny
GENESIS88
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Actually it was hitting the bolt for ball joint.. But after bending back still made same noise. There both dry rotted and cracked. When I intentionally shorted tie rods on both sides the noises almost completely stop. It's almost like the car is over steering even though it's not.
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Monday, April 19th, 2021 AT 5:38 PM
Tiny
GENESIS88
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After taking step back and thinking. I think it might be a case of cause and effect. Wheel cut while turning so I replaced right inner and outer tie rods. I noticed sway bar link broken. Car started to make noises. The drive to mechanic to replace it got worse. I replaced left inner and outer and did nothing but make it worse. I replace tie rods alignment is way off. The Off alignment pulls to much on left axle pulling inner joint out. Off steering is causing binding which was causing engine to jump. Motor mount was bad. Car was fine before tie rods and sway bar link after it wasn't. It almost seems like just the sway bar link was issue but by doing inner and outer tie rods and not getting alignment caused everything else that was worn to go completely. I'm going try to put it to the test today.
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Tuesday, April 20th, 2021 AT 4:25 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

That makes sense. Interestingly, when you were fixing some things, the other problems because more prominent.

Let me know how things turn out for you.

Take care,
Joe
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Tuesday, April 20th, 2021 AT 7:35 PM
Tiny
GENESIS88
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I think it's the intermediate shaft or a worn hub. It almost seems like when there is pressure out on it, it jumps and tooth on spindle.
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Wednesday, April 21st, 2021 AT 9:42 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

As much as it's moving, anything is possible. When you check it, do me a favor. Safely lift one wheel off the ground about 6 inches. Place a long pry bar between the ground and the bottom of the tire and move it up and down. See if there is play or any noise. You could even have a ball joint ready to fall out.

Let me know.

Joe
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Wednesday, April 21st, 2021 AT 5:45 PM
Tiny
GENESIS88
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I'll try that. I forgot to do that when I had car up. Before this happened 99 percent of car was original that's why it's so hard to diagnose. Everything and anything can be causing issues.
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Wednesday, April 21st, 2021 AT 6:16 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Just take your time. Anything that deals with steering, suspension, brakes, and so on can be dangerous. Make sure there is no play left and right as well to confirm the tie-rods are good.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe
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Wednesday, April 21st, 2021 AT 6:24 PM
Tiny
GENESIS88
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When I did the inner tie rods I never replaced the boots until I knew car was fixed. When I was jacking up right side I noticed half way up the inner tie rods was flexing/bending and tire seems to take longer to get off ground. Can a blown strut/mount cause these issues including CVto act up or seems like it's acting up?
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Friday, April 23rd, 2021 AT 6:53 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

If the inner tie rod is flexing, there has to be a good bit of downward pressure being placed on it. Are you sure the strut assembly is still attached specifically at the top mount?

Something sounds broken. If possible, can you take a video showing what you see and upload it for me?

Let me know.

Joe
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Friday, April 23rd, 2021 AT 5:42 PM
Tiny
GENESIS88
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I checked the right side and there is no play. But when I dropped car and rolled back and forth in drive way the car rolled forward again. It's almost like it was bump steering. Just looking at at the ball joint and upper control you can tell there bad. Grease is coming out and boots are cracked. The strut assembly might be shot also. I'm just going to grab my old phone out it under car under each axle facing inward and outward and take 4 videos. That should help isolate where the issues are. I'm just not sure what do you think. Can a bad hub cause axle to bind and cause inner CV to jump and skip on intermediate shaft? Also one photo from past post you can see in front lower wheel well tire wore a groove into it. That is on the right side.
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Saturday, April 24th, 2021 AT 5:08 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

I did notice that. I didn't mention it because that can happen if the tire size was changed to a larger size.

The best thing to do at this point is to get a prybar and see what moves. Grab the axles and see if anything is moving when you apply a lot of pressure back and forth.

I will wait for the videos.

Take care,

Joe
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Saturday, April 24th, 2021 AT 7:00 PM
Tiny
GENESIS88
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Tire size hadn't changed, it's all stock. I don't recall ever seeing that at least in the past 2 months. I guess tomorrow I'll just get something and pry around tug and pull on everything. If I can't figure it out I will just go to this shop around the corner to my house and see if I can get them to do a house call.
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Sunday, April 25th, 2021 AT 2:55 PM
Tiny
GENESIS88
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The suspension seems fine. There is no signs that it's blown or broken Tomorrow when I check everything again I'll take photos and videos of everything Important.
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Sunday, April 25th, 2021 AT 4:31 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

Let me know. I'm interested in knowing. If the tire size is original, something is either allowing the tire to reach the inner fender, or the inner fender is loose and making contact with the tire.

I'm really interested in knowing what you find. I wish I was there to help.

Take care,

Joe
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Sunday, April 25th, 2021 AT 7:09 PM

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