Starter tried to engage but it just keeps cranking?

Tiny
DANNY L
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,648 POSTS
Hello, I am Danny.

Have you tested the fuel pressure? I have attached a link on how to steps. If you do not have one most auto part stores (Pep Boys, O'Reilly's, Autozone) have a free tool loaner program. Your car should have 58 P.S.I. plus or minus 5 according to the specifications. Hope this helps and feel free to ask any other questions if needed.Thanks for using 2CarPros.
Danny-

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator
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Saturday, June 5th, 2021 AT 12:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BOPHILLYBILLY
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2008 DODGE CHARGER
  • 2.7L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 157,000 MILES
So when I got the car I was told it had overheating problems. Replaced the radiator, thermostat, radiator fan sensor, and bypassed the heating core. The car would drive longer and longer since I have made those repairs. Then out the blue I got a throttle bottle indicator on my dash and a couple of weeks later the car wouldn't turn back over. Started making this horrible screeching noise like a belt getting sawed. Cleaned the throttle. Put a new starter in and fully charged my battery. Replaced the ignition relay and any fuse I didn't have or might have been damaged. I even replaced the spark plugs. Car still wont turn over. All of the lights and radio are still working but I really don't know what to do at this point. The one mechanic I took the car to said that my timing belt was bad. But after a lot of hours of reading articles and watching videos. I didn't think that was the problem. Please if anyone can help or tell me what I should do. I also replaced the battery terminals.
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Saturday, June 5th, 2021 AT 12:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,700 POSTS
Does the starter engage and turn the engine? If it does, have you checked for spark and fuel to the engine? Also, if the starter is working, can you record the engine when it is engaged so I can hear it? There could be a timing issue.

As far as spark and fuel, here are a couple links to help you check them:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

If the starter doesn't engage, follow this link and let me know the results:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Let me know.

Joe
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Saturday, June 5th, 2021 AT 12:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GARY1962
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2007 DODGE CHARGER
  • 3.5L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 170,000 MILES
Dealership said my transmission pump was bad, so I replaced pump. Now car wont start. It ran fine before changing pump. Had the car jacked up pretty high on one side and battery disconnected for couple weeks. Any idea what the problem could be? Also, no codes are coming up.
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Saturday, June 5th, 2021 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Try resetting security system battery was disconnected so it set security. See link.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system
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Saturday, June 5th, 2021 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GARY1962
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Tried all reset security options you suggested, still not starting. I do not think it was bad, but replaced crank sensor located on nag 1 transmission bell. Still not starting.
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Saturday, June 5th, 2021 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge then auto parts rent it. See link.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start
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Saturday, June 5th, 2021 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,512 POSTS
Hey Gary,

It sounds like you left one of the system grounds off up a the bellhousing. Can you recheck the grounds and get back to us please?

Sometimes eletronics can go out by just sitting there as well such as a fuel pump or a crankshaft angle sensor.

Here are a couple of guides to help.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system.

Please run some tests and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Best, Ken

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Saturday, June 5th, 2021 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GARY1962
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Checked fuel pump, it's good. Not showing any codes, but battery was disconnected for awhile and it hasn't started since. Checked ground on transmission, that's good. There is just the one ground there, right? Another thing, should the engine have power going to it even when key is off? The fuel injectors and ignition coils still light up even though key is off. Also I put a new cam position sensor on it. I can't figure it out!
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Saturday, June 5th, 2021 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
No when key is off no power should go to engine. Check coil/s as maybe they got burnt up from power being on all the time also check ignition switchor front ignition module which a mechanic would need to scan for codes for. Also check asd relay and fuse 11in pdc
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Saturday, June 5th, 2021 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GARY LETNER
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Car has been at dealership now 2 weeks and replaced PCM all fixed.
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Saturday, June 5th, 2021 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KRISKRAFT2020
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2007 DODGE CHARGER
  • 3.5L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 145,000 MILES
I swapped out a 2007 3.5 liter motor from my charger, and installed a 3.5 from a 2005 Chrysler 300. The swap went well. My only problem now is getting injectors to work. Fuel pump primes and runs while cranking. Pulled a cam sensor code then soon after crank sensor code. Tonight I replaced both sensors and finally got it want to start, but only starts with ether.I checked all ground straps wiring all looked good.I stayed with my original harness just switched out the sensors.I guess my next to do is invest in noid lights and or the adapter to check fuel pressure as I see no other way to check injectors pulse. Any input I can appreciate.
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Saturday, June 5th, 2021 AT 12:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DANNY L
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,648 POSTS
Hello, I'm Danny.

Yep. You're on the right track. I would check with noid light to see if your getting injector pulse while cranking as well as fuel pressure. If you don't have access to those testers most auto parts store have a tool loaner program and can possibly rent you one. With you saying it starts with ether that is more towards the not getting fuel issue. Your fuel pressure should be at 53-63 p.S.I. Let me know if you have any other questions on this issue. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros
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Saturday, June 5th, 2021 AT 12:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KRISKRAFT2020
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thank you 2CarPros. Com for your speedy response in regards to my last post.I went ahead and replaced both cam and crank sensors (new ones).I'm getting fuel now, and spark. Only it wants to start it seems in only one spot. Almost acts as if it's 180 degrees out on timing. Distributor less is this possible?I figure I'm losing ref. Signal somewhere along the line, and then out of nowhere the # 15 fuse under hood starts to acting up intermittently blowing the fuse. Tracked that down to a little diode type looking part bolted on back of passenger side cylinder head. It has like one wire terminal and grounded?
So I decide to check compression while I had access, but then I couldn't find my gauge.I had no choice at time but go Old School and had my wife bring out Bounty paper towels.I admit and don't recommend this procedure to test compression but my choices were limited and the little lady with paper towels was not taking kindly to my after hours project so to speak.I can say compression was good enough to shoot out paper towel about eight feet or so high. If nothing else I would think it was enough to make it run?If timing belt was jumped it would affect compression?I'm not too eager to pull front cover on this thing, but I see no other way of checking the timing on this 3.5 Dodge. If any body has any input on this feel free to respond thank you.
P.S. I'm new to this post my first actually, And I have to say that taking time out to listen to our car problems and help out with out charging an arm or leg Is Priceless to Professional or Shade Tree Mechanics alike, we never stop learning and as we grow older we do forget some things. And this site is really a plus. As my wife reminds me everyday goes by that I should have just spent the $1,800.00 go figure.
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Saturday, June 5th, 2021 AT 12:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DANNY L
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,648 POSTS
Hello again.

The engine on your car uses a fixed ignition timing system. Basic ignition timing is not adjustable. All spark advance is determined by your cars PCM (power-train control module). Is there a chance you can use you cell phone to take a picture of this diode or wire you speak of and upload here? That might help me understand what you're speaking of. Hope this all helps and we'll figure this out. Thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-
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Saturday, June 5th, 2021 AT 12:52 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHUKS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2007 DODGE CHARGER
Every other thing is good but just coil is sparking for the to start. I change the crankshaft sensor. If on ignition there is currant on coil but not spark to start?
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Saturday, June 5th, 2021 AT 12:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
It sounds like the TIPM is bad. When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds? Here is how to change out the TIPM it is easy because it self initializes.
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Saturday, June 5th, 2021 AT 12:59 PM (Merged)

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