Engine Overheating?

Tiny
SJMORENO77
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 2000 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 78,000 MILES
The other day the car overheated so much that smoke was everywhere (hood, car vents and muffler) and started to make claking sound then it dies. I let the car rest and put some coolant and now it works but very hesitant. When I accelerate it trembles and hesitates. I know that its the water pump that is giving me the problem but is there anything else I should replace? Maybe electrical
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:15 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Good chance head and/or gasket was damaged take compression test to determine.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:15 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SJMORENO77
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I put the car through the code reader and it says missfire at cylinder #3. Also, the car is not smoking or anything
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:15 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BILBOSMITH
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 CHRYSLER SEBRING
Engine Cooling problem
1999 Chrysler Sebring 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive 140000 miles

My car overheats if idling too long, or when in stop and go traffic. While traveling at hwy speeds not a problem. Fuses are okay. Trying to see if applying power to Rad fan will spin it, but not sure how to apply power to 3 connections. I've verfied that the "Hoses" are under pressure while running, which I think indicates that the water pump is working.

Need Fan schematic. Pictures of location of Coolant sensor, location of Thermostat, and of Radiator Fan Relay (if one exists).

Also at what temperature should the Radiator Fan turn on?
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:15 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Have you checked if you are getting power to the fan rather than running power to the fan? Also, the fan should kick around 205 degrees. The cooland sensor should be located near the thermostat housing. Also, it is normal for the cooling system to build pressure ane the hoses to get hard when the engine is hard. The fan relay should be in the power distribution box under the hood. And, if you follow the upper radiator hose to the engine, it will at the t-stat housing.

As far as a schematic, I will continue looking for that. Let me know if this helps.

Joe
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:15 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LOUISR
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
Plz advise, I recently had my car thermostat changed believing that was the reason for my car over heating. After about 2 weeks of it sitting in my drive way. I did it myself and two days later as soon as I was arrived to work, I parked my car and alot of white smoke started coming out of the hood. The temp. Gauge, which was in the middle the whole time. Shot up to high. I quickly shut off my car and open the hood but couldnt see any busted hoses. The water in the resoviour was boiling. Im going to see if it needs more coolent once it cools off, any other suggestions?
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:16 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ERNEST CLARK
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,730 POSTS
First, thermostats do not cool engines down. They are designed to help the engine get hot to a certain point, then the water pump and radiator cools the engine.

The fist thing to check is the radiator cap/surge tank cap. Remove it and look to see if the black rubber gasket is intact and not clogged with dirt. Next start the engine and let it reach operating temp. (This is when the thermostat opens) There should be pressure in the hoses. If no pressure is building, then the radiator cap/surge tank cap is leaking.

Then you can check to see if the water pump is working by squeezing the upper radiator hose while someone revs the motor up and down. If you feel the pressure in the hose, then your pump is ok.

You can check your thermostat by feeling both the upper and lower radiator hose after the engine runs for about 10 minutes. (After the thermostat opens)

If the upper hose is hot and the lower isn't, then the thermostat is stuck closed.

Also, if you've added coolant after a loss, then you could have air in the system. You can bleed this air by removing the radiator cap and allowing the engine to heat and cool a couple times. (You need to set the heater on high) Also, with the radiator cap on but the surge tank cap off, squeeze the upper radiator hose a couple times while the engine is running.

Next, are you cooling fans coming on? At idle after the thermostat opens, the fans should come on. If not, check the relays. If the relays are good and the fans are getting power but not turning on, the the fans are bad.

Finally, if none of this works, either you have a blockage in the system, or a blown head/intake gasket.

You can easily check a blown gasket by first looking in the oil. If it's milky white, the gasket is blown. If not, open the surge tank cap and start the engine. While someone revs the motor, look inside the surge tank. If you see large bubbles (Not foamy bubbles), then you head gasket is blown and it's allowing hot exhaust gas to build up in the system.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:16 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CHARLES23TRRY
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I have replaced everything and it still overheats
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:16 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
Hey CHARLES,

These cars had a big problem with blown head gaskets which will make the engine overheat. Here are a couple of guides that will help you find out what the problem the is and how to fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-overheating-or-running-hot

Please run some tests and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Best, Ken
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:16 AM (Merged)
Tiny
COLDGEEZA
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 110,000 MILES
Hi, I have just bought the sebring, and straight away the top hose pipe to the radiator expanded and exploded! I replaced the hose but didnt know if it would hold! So took it to mechanics. They changed the Thermostat, and the radiator fan, did a radiator flush, oil change, plus a tune up.
Drove it around a bit, then it started leaking from the overflow. So took it back and it was the valve cap not letting by. So they say. So got that replaced! Was driving around fine with it for a day, and Now it is over heating, and as soon as it gets to max the temp warning light comes on! Also I noted that the hose had expanded a bit, not as bad as last time! Completley confused as to what else it could be! Any ideas? And should I not go back to this mechanic?
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:16 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
With all they did, it shouldn't overheat unless there is another problem. Let me know, does it overheat only when sitting in traffic or does it do it when you are at highway speed?

At this point, my primary concern is a bad head gasket. Check the oil to make sure there is no coolant mixing with the oil. Also, check the coolant to make sure oil isn't mixing with it. Next (WITH THE ENGINE COLD) remove the radiator cap and start the engine. Let me know if coolant blows out.

Joe
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:16 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ROBBACAR86
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 CHRYSLER SEBRING
Engine Cooling problem
1998 Chrysler Sebring 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

i was told there was a air buble in the system and there was a bleeder valve were is it at
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:16 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ZACKMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,202 POSTS
You have a drain valve at the back of the motor, but there is no bleeder valve. The easiest way to bleed air pocket is to let the engine run with no radiator cap until normal engine temp. Just watch for coolant level coming out of the coolant cap neck. If coolant shots out, shut off the engine.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:16 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GHORMZ21
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1998 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 190,000 MILES
I was over heating, so thinking that thermostat was bad I removed it. My car is still over heating with no thermostat in it. What else could be affecting the flow of water? Does this car have two thermostats? Is the radiator clogged? Please help.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:16 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
You cannot simply remove the thermostat. That will have ranging effect on all kinds of things, especially in the computer controls. Thermostats don't just suddenly cause overheating problems. You could have any number of things going on now since it has a history of overheating which could have done serious internal damage. Check all your fans for operation and pressure test the system for leaks. If it is overheating more at highway speeds, rather than idle, that would tend to point to a bad radiator.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:16 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GHORMZ21
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thank you for your response.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:16 AM (Merged)

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