Why did my car overheat?

Tiny
SCRE4SALE
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 2.7L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 105,000 MILES
I've got a 2004 Sebring convertible with the 2.7. I've had some issues the past few days with the cooling system.

Yesterday my car overheated with coolant all over the driveway. Once it cooled down, I noticed that the cap on the overflow tank wasn't seated correctly. I wish I could blame it on someone else, but I had opened it yesterday morning. I assume this led to it overheating.

Looking down into the overflow tank, it appears that the tank is full. Looking at it from the side (and it is extremely discolored), I see the lines to the level that it should be filled, but I can't discern any coolant (my "former" mechanic put the green coolant in it, so it is harder to see. I will be getting a flush this week and putting in the right coolant). But, for lack of a better term, the "neck" of the overflow tank is full and won't accept any more coolant. Could there be air blocking the coolant from entering the body of the overflow tank?

To make matter worse, I'm pretty sure I have a problem with the coolant air bleeder valve. Last year the original one basically blew up. My "former" mechanic put in a replacement. I had another mechanic look at it a while back and said that he thought it was faulty. I think I finally understand what he means. When I try to tighten or loosen the bleeder screw, the entire thing turns. Not just the screw, but the metal cylinder it sits in, too. So, I can't really tighten or loosen it. The entire thing spins. I ordered a new coolant air bleeder from AutoZone that will be here tomorrow. I've watched some videos and feel that I can tackle the job of replacing it, other than torquing the bolts.

I'm not exceptionally mechanical, but being a husband and father with four cars I've had to learn a few things. Any thoughts or suggestions? I feel pretty stupid that I can't even fill the overflow tank with coolant.
Monday, March 10th, 2014 AT 6:07 PM

28 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
It might be a head gasket problem. but if you put something thin in the tank it should break any air in it like a bubble. just don't be a gorilla tightening the air bleeder. for all you know it may be full anyhow and blew out the excess. This guide will help us figure out what's going on.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-overheating-or-running-hot

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Tuesday, March 11th, 2014 AT 6:04 AM
Tiny
TERIJWRIGHT
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2004 CHRYSLER SEBRING
I checked the water and noticed it needed more so refilled it and have been needing to refill it every day to prevent it from over heating. I have checked for leaks and dont see any. Where is the water going? I have also noticed a chirping noise coming from near where you refill the water
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
If the leak is not too bad, it might not be visible and easily detected. A pressure test would definitely produce results. If there are no leakages in engine compartment, get inside vehicle and lift up the carpet. If there are presence of moisture, you could have a leak with the heater core.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:12 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LUCINDA JEAN
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2004 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 70,000 MILES
My car always smells like hot oil although temp guage normal. What can I do about this?
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:12 AM (Merged)
Tiny
EDWARD.S
  • MECHANIC
  • 166 POSTS
Hi, Have Your car checked out by a mechanic. You may have oil leaking on the exhaust pipes, or manifold. And The burning Smell is being Picked Up By The AC/Heater Blower in the car, that is why you are smelling it.

Hope This Helps You,
Good Luck
Edward S.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:12 AM (Merged)
Tiny
NASHPD1
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2004 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 92,000 MILES
My heater quit working and now the car overheats...when I looked at the engine there appears to be a leak at a place where a hose comes into a sensor? It looks as if a pink corrosion is forming


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/304421_Daves_Pictures_107_1.jpg

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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:12 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,029 POSTS
Ok you need to check the anti freeze level first to see if the radiator is low. If it is then you need to fix the leak that you found. The anti freeze is pink and comes in a gold bottle GO5 extended life (not to be confused with dex cool it comes in a silver bottle). After the leak is fixed then have a pressure test done to make sure there are no other leaks.
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+1
Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:12 AM (Merged)
Tiny
NASHPD1
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
How do I fix the leak.. the picture shows where it is at


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/304421_Daves_Pictures_107_3.jpg

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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:12 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,029 POSTS
I can see there is a leak but I am can't see it real good can you get another angle of it so I can better see what all is there? Thanks. It looks like that is the coolant temp sensor but it is hard to tell if it is coming from the sensor or?
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:12 AM (Merged)
Tiny
NASHPD1
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
This is a followup to the original question - How would I repair the leak - Is it the sensor that has gone bad. I have included a picture to help with the question
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:12 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,029 POSTS
I intend to answer that question but I do need a better angle of the area of the leak so I can try to see if it is the sensor leaking which then you replace it or if it is the hose or the thermostat housing. Where the two smaller hose come together there is that piece plastic or metal? Get back to me so we can get it fixed. Thanks.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:12 AM (Merged)
Tiny
THIS IS MIKE
  • MECHANIC
  • 686 POSTS
Here are some pictures sent in by email


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/46392_thermostat_housing_1.jpg

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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:12 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,029 POSTS
Well with what I can see it looks like you need to replace the housing gasket and I would also replace the hose that is in the middle of that as it look like it is leaking and the put on new clamps. Is that antifreeze red or is it that rusted? If it is that rusted you will be need a coolant flush and new antifreeze too then. Thanks and let me know how it goes.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:12 AM (Merged)
Tiny
YBLADE1
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2003 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 160,000 MILES
I have a 2003 Chrysler Sebring 2.4 sedan, 4 cylinders. I have the car for 3 years now, never had any problem with overheating, but last week it started to overheat on the highway, the warning light came on, I had to pull over and wait an hour till it cooled down, I was able to drive home carefully with 40mph making sure it doesn’t overheat. Next day I had to refill a gallon of water that was missing from the overflow tank. I took it to a local mechanic, they did a pressure test on the cooling system and an engine compression test to make sure it’s not the head gasket, nothing was leaking, they couldn’t find any problem. The fans also came on. I also did radiator flush a year ago. Since that I have no overheating issues, but I’m scared of going to longer trips. Any idea?
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:12 AM (Merged)
Tiny
IWS1274
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
I'm not sure how a sebring is set up but there is a couple of things that can think of.

It could be your thermostat. Its a valve in the cooling lines that opens and closes based on engine temperatures. If it gets clogged up like a car with 160k miles on it could, it won't run water through the engine block.

While unlikely, it could be your water pump. If that fails, no circulation.

Depending on what powers your water pump, usually the timing belt and usually on the non toothed side, you could have lost some tension in the hydraulic tensioner which could cause the water pump to not turn.

I would check the thermostat first, cheap and easy.

Hope this information helps.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:12 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Since this happened at highway speeds, it leads me to believe there is an issue with the thermostat or the radiator may need flushed. You mentioned that the flush was done and it hasn't overheated since then. Is that correct? If so, chances are that was the problem. However, with this many miles on an 11 year old vehicle, you may want to replace the thermostat just to be safe.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:12 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SAMGABLE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2003 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 146,000 MILES
Chrysler Sebring 03 2.7l v6

New water pump, heads and gasket redone, new thermostat, we've put air through the hoses so we know coolant circulates (not plugged); fans won't turn on and car overheats/coolant bubbles, with snap-on computer connected coolant temp reads around 195-200 when overheating/coolant bubbling, but fans won't come on unless grounded/hard-wired on than temp will drop and hover around 180 on snap on tool temp reading.

Still puts out good heat, but with ac on it won't overheat.

I bought the car from someone else who had sunk a bunch of money on parts and mechanic work before they finally gave up. I have found many problems from "mechanics" who worked on this car before. I.E. Broken bolts, thermostat in backwards

Now I'm wondering, do I need a new computer? Is there a computer glitch? Coolant boils at 260-265 and with the snap on tool connected it's reading the temp at 195 while yes coolant is boiling over. New thermostat and ECT. So is it a computer issue?
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:12 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
It's highly likely that you could have a blown head gasket and you should have it chemical tested for that.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:12 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MADMIKE1735
  • MECHANIC
  • 951 POSTS
Wrenchtech, did u read his question? He replaced the headgasket, his problem is the cooling fan doesnt come on!
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:12 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
Yes, I did read the question.

"fans won't turn on and car overheats/coolant bubbles, with snap-on computer connected coolant temp reads around 195-200 when overheating/coolant bubbling, but fans won't come on unless grounded/hard-wired on than temp will drop and hover around 180 on snap on tool temp reading."

He said he is getting bubbles in the system with no indication of overheating. The fans aren't supposed to come on at that temp so the the fans aren't the issue. The air being pumped into the system is the issue. He is assuming it is boiling but there is no indication of that as yet. Just because he just put the engine together doesn't mean it still couldn't have a sealing problem. He probably should be verifying the temp with a laser thermometer.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:12 AM (Merged)

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