Engine Overheating?

Hi,

Overheating can be caused by a few different things. First, I noted that you replaced the thermostat. Was the system flushed when you had the coolant removed? If not, that would be the next step. Here is a link that shows how that is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/coolant-flush-and-refill-all-cars

Also, if you are trying to add coolant and it won't take any, it may simply be full. When the engine is cold, open the radiator cap and check level. If it is full, start the engine and see if it drops. If it does, and it then. Make sure the overflow reservoir is at a proper level as well.

After it is filled and the cap is still off, allow the engine to warm up for two reasons. First, confirm that the level doesn't drop any further and second when it hits operating temp, you should be able to see the coolant flowing through the radiator. Note that when you fill the radiator, make sure the heater is on high to ensure the heater core is full as well. If there is no heat, then either the core is plugged, there is air in the system, or there is no circulation of coolant.

To answer a specific question you asked, the pump does not need to make noise to be bad. It can, but often times it will develop a leak through what is called a weep hole. See pic 1

Here is a link that you may find of interest and helpful. It discusses common symptoms of a bad water pump.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-water-pump

One last thought. If everything above shows normal, then we need to check if there is an issue with a head gasket. Take a look through this link. It explains how to determine if that is the issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

Here is something I want you to try as well. With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap and start the engine. Does coolant shot from the radiator or leak out rapidly? If it does, then we have compressed air entering the cooling system most likely the result of a bad head gasket.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-overheating-or-running-hot

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Five days ago my AC went out - the fan was blowing but it was not cooling. Now my engine is overheating and I do not think that the engine fan is working. The thermostat is fine. Is it possibly a fuse? What is the issue?
Thank you

Hi:
Does the engine overheat at highway speed? Also, make sure the belt hasn't come off the AC.

Let me know.
Joe

[quote:e4ab41e282="Jacobandnickolas"]Hi:
Does the engine overheat at highway speed? Also, make sure the belt hasn't come off the AC.

Let me know.
Joe[/quote:e4ab41e282]

Thank you for responding - Actuallly, we have found that the Fan motor was not operating and got a used replacement. It worked when tested at the shop, but does not seem to be working when we put it in the car. Is there a possibility of an electrical problem?
Thanks,
TDelphonse

Hi:
The temp sensor sends a signal to the computer and the fan relay which inturn starts the fan. Have you check the relay or temp sensor?

i have a 2000 seabring. last year my car ran hot in the summer. this summer the same thing. only differance is that this year it boiled out of the overflow tank. since then i have replaced temp sensor, thermostat, dipped the radiator and flushed it, replaced hoses, the fan works like it should, and had a pressure test done to it with the results of no leaks. the car still runs hot. it takes about 15 min driving, and longer when just sitting there parked(like when i was burping it) i replaced the radiator cap and the one to the overflow tank. at the shop they tried to do a block test i think it was called, but the car kept burping water up so they couldnt do it. the reverse test came back fine. the water pump is not leaking and i am not looseing fluid. any ideas on that is some other possibilities? the radiator looks fine also. was told last year after the dip that wasnt the problem. could it be that part of my skid guard is missing?

Sounds like the same problem I am having with my 2000 JXi... The water overheats and overflows from under the radiator cap.. Had a new radiator installed, engine gaskets changed, new transmission gaskets, but still it does the same overheating thing...have you found out what your problem was, and how was it fixed?? Please help!! Thanks.. Now it's backfiring too!! What else??

You need to have the head gasket checked. Either with a block test or exhaust gas analyzer. Befor the coolant backs up do the block test or have a gas analyzer sniff the coolant befor the back up.

Just had the head gasket fixed,,all gasket replaced and block was Tooled and all
put back together.. Then backfiring started!! How would coolant get into the gas?? is that what this gas analyzer is for? could it be something simpler?

Exhaust gas can be getting in to the coolant. The gas analyzer will check this

Heater problem
2000 Chrysler Sebring 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic

My car keeps overheating. Friends said it could be heater core because it's leaking fluid under the passenger dash board. I replaced the thermostat.

If there's a leak on the heater core the engine will overheat its losing coolant. You sure its not a clogged-up AC drain tube

If you will, could you tell me where to look for the AC drain I took out the heater core yesterday night. There were two tubes connected, one actually said heater on it and i'm not to sure what the other one was, i'm guessing it was for the AC. Thank you for your time

There were two tubes connected, one actually said heater on it and i'm not to sure what the other one

The 2 heater hose goes to the heater core in and out-the coolant has to go back to the engine. As for the AC drain tube dunno where it is-

Car overheated as I was on the highway driving. I took it to a mechanic and said that needs timing belt and water pump and radiator. With labor is 1200. Is it comparable to most places? Just wonderng... Thanks

First, all of those things don't go bad at the same time. As far as the price, it's not bad. But does it need everything? Is the water pump leaking? I want to explaine something. First, if you replace the water pump on this engine, it is a good idea to replace the timing belt too, so I can understand where he is coming from there. However, if there is no leak from the pump and it isn't making noise, chances are it is fine. He can't see through the aluminum housing to determine if that is the problem. The radiator, on the other hand, may need replaced or may just need flushed. It could also be a 5 dollar thermostat that has gone bad.

Has he been able to justify why everything needs replaced? Was the radiator leaking? Was the waterpump leaking or making noise?

Let me know.


Joe

my 2000 seabring hardtop 2.5L runs hot,at the h, during the summer. until this week it has never boiled over. this time it boiled in the overflow tank. i have changed the radiator hose, thermostat, hoses, flushed radiator. I can see water movement when it is running, and no milky substance in the oil, i made sure that there was not air bubbles 3 times. replaced the temp sensor. it still goes to the hot line. it heats up to the half way mark right after starting engin for first time. what else can cause it to run hot? my overflow tank has a crack on the peice the hose conects to going into the tank its self. could that cause it? or am i over looking something.

If it stills overheating with all that replacement stuffs/checks-time to block and pressure test it-could be a blown headgasket, cracked head or block, and intake

IS THERE ANY WAY TO DO THAT MYSELF OR DOES IT HAVE TO GO TO THE SHOP AGAIN. AT THIS POINT I AM PRETTY TIGHT ON MONEY WITH ALL OF STUFF I PAID SO FAR

You can get the block and cooling system pressure tester at the major parts store and DIY

The other day the car overheated so much that smoke was everywhere (hood, car vents and muffler) and started to make claking sound then it dies. I let the car rest and put some coolant and now it works but very hesitant. When I accelerate it trembles and hesitates. I know that its the water pump that is giving me the problem but is there anything else I should replace? Maybe electrical

Good chance head and/or gasket was damaged take compression test to determine.

I put the car through the code reader and it says missfire at cylinder #3. Also, the car is not smoking or anything

Engine Cooling problem
1999 Chrysler Sebring 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive 140000 miles

My car overheats if idling too long, or when in stop and go traffic. While traveling at hwy speeds not a problem. Fuses are okay. Trying to see if applying power to Rad fan will spin it, but not sure how to apply power to 3 connections. I've verfied that the "Hoses" are under pressure while running, which I think indicates that the water pump is working.

Need Fan schematic. Pictures of location of Coolant sensor, location of Thermostat, and of Radiator Fan Relay (if one exists).

Also at what temperature should the Radiator Fan turn on?

Have you checked if you are getting power to the fan rather than running power to the fan? Also, the fan should kick around 205 degrees. The cooland sensor should be located near the thermostat housing. Also, it is normal for the cooling system to build pressure ane the hoses to get hard when the engine is hard. The fan relay should be in the power distribution box under the hood. And, if you follow the upper radiator hose to the engine, it will at the t-stat housing.

As far as a schematic, I will continue looking for that. Let me know if this helps.

Joe

Plz advise, I recently had my car thermostat changed believing that was the reason for my car over heating. After about 2 weeks of it sitting in my drive way... i did it myself and two days later as soon as i was arrived to work, I parked my car and alot of white smoke started coming out of the hood... The temp. gauge, which was in the middle the whole time. shot up to high... I quickly shut off my car and open the hood but couldnt see any busted hoses... The water in the resoviour was boiling... im going to see if it needs more coolent once it cools off, any other suggestions?

First, thermostats do not cool engines down. They are designed to help the engine get hot to a certain point, then the water pump and radiator cools the engine.

The fist thing to check is the radiator cap/surge tank cap. Remove it and look to see if the black rubber gasket is intact and not clogged with dirt. Next start the engine and let it reach operating temp. (this is when the thermostat opens) There should be pressure in the hoses. If no pressure is building, then the radiator cap/surge tank cap is leaking.

Then you can check to see if the water pump is working by squeezing the upper radiator hose while someone revs the motor up and down. If you feel the pressure in the hose, then your pump is ok.

You can check your thermostat by feeling both the upper and lower radiator hose after the engine runs for about 10 minutes. (after the thermostat opens)

If the upper hose is hot and the lower isn't, then the thermostat is stuck closed.

Also, if you've added coolant after a loss, then you could have air in the system. You can bleed this air by removing the radiator cap and allowing the engine to heat and cool a couple times. (You need to set the heater on high) Also, with the radiator cap on but the surge tank cap off, squeeze the upper radiator hose a couple times while the engine is running.

Next, are you cooling fans coming on? At idle after the thermostat opens, the fans should come on. If not, check the relays. If the relays are good and the fans are getting power but not turning on, the the fans are bad.

Finally, if none of this works, either you have a blockage in the system, or a blown head/intake gasket.

You can easily check a blown gasket by first looking in the oil. If it's milky white, the gasket is blown. If not, open the surge tank cap and start the engine. While someone revs the motor, look inside the surge tank. If you see large bubbles (Not foamy bubbles), then you head gasket is blown and it's allowing hot exhaust gas to build up in the system.

I have replaced everything and it still overheats

Hey CHARLES,

These cars had a big problem with blown head gaskets which will make the engine overheat. Here are a couple of guides that will help you find out what the problem the is and how to fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-overheating-or-running-hot

Please run some tests and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Best, Ken

Hi, i have just bought the sebring, and straight away the top hose pipe to the radiator expanded and exploded! I replaced the hose but didnt know if it would hold! So took it to mechanics. They changed the Thermostat, and the radiator fan, did a radiator flush, oil change, plus a tune up.
Drove it around a bit, then it started leaking from the overflow... so took it back and it was the valve cap not letting by... so they say. So got that replaced! was driving around fine with it for a day, and Now it is over heating, and as soon as it gets to max the temp warning light comes on! also i noted that the hose had expanded a bit, not as bad as last time...! Completley confused as to what else it could be?! any ideas?? and should i not go back to this mechanic?

With all they did, it shouldn't overheat unless there is another problem. Let me know, does it overheat only when sitting in traffic or does it do it when you are at highway speed?

At this point, my primary concern is a bad head gasket. Check the oil to make sure there is no coolant mixing with the oil. Also, check the coolant to make sure oil isn't mixing with it. Next (WITH THE ENGINE COLD) remove the radiator cap and start the engine. Let me know if coolant blows out.

Joe

Engine Cooling problem
1998 Chrysler Sebring 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

i was told there was a air buble in the system and there was a bleeder valve were is it at

You have a drain valve at the back of the motor, but there is no bleeder valve. The easiest way to bleed air pocket is to let the engine run with no radiator cap until normal engine temp. Just watch for coolant level coming out of the coolant cap neck. If coolant shots out, shut off the engine.

I was over heating, so thinking that thermostat was bad i removed it. My car is still over heating with no thermostat in it. What else could be affecting the flow of water? Does this car have two thermostats? Is the radiator clogged? Please help.

You cannot simply remove the thermostat. That will have ranging effect on all kinds of things, especially in the computer controls. Thermostats don't just suddenly cause overheating problems. You could have any number of things going on now since it has a history of overheating which could have done serious internal damage. Check all your fans for operation and pressure test the system for leaks. If it is overheating more at highway speeds, rather than idle, that would tend to point to a bad radiator.

Thank you for your response.