1997 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 100,000 miles

Tiny
AMYGGG
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 CHEVROLET TRUCK
Cavalier keeps dying when idling or moving very slowly in traffic.
Mechanic can't find the cause, can't duplicate the problem.
Power just cuts out- everything else still works (radio, air, blinkers). No lights on dash come on.
Sometimes restarts right away, sometimes won't start again, towed to shop, starts upon arrival or will start when pushed to side of road.
Shop replaced fuel pump and relay because he said when hooked to gauge it lost pressure - car died again next week.
Shop can't duplicate the problem again.
It seems to have happened each time in the rain or damp weather. But, has driven in wet and dry weather in between incidents.
It has happened both when car has driven a distance and in my driveway at start of day.
Any help is much appreciated - it's back at the shop now and he can't find anything or duplicate it - and I'm afraid to drive it- no tows left on AAA! Thanks so much.
Thursday, March 16th, 2006 AT 2:49 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
GUITARMAN5
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
You might want to check the distributor for a good seal at the base. Moisture can cause the car to stall, lose power ETC.
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Friday, March 17th, 2006 AT 8:25 AM
Tiny
AMYGGG
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
So far the EGR valve & the distributor have been checked and the fuel pump & relay have been replaced. Apparently the spark plugs have been checked (not replaced) and are okay.

Is this a situation where there would be codes from a computer - I don't know enough about cars to know if this year and model would have a diagnostic feature like this.

Still no relief and I'm not sure where to go from here.

My mechanic and I both appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks - Amy
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Monday, March 20th, 2006 AT 4:33 PM
Tiny
MIKE E
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Our problems may be related. 2.2 recently started running very poorly when lights, heater fan, wipers, etc are turned on. I'm in the middle of replacing injectors, O2 sensor, general tuneup to get another 150, 000. I'm stumped.
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Tuesday, March 21st, 2006 AT 8:44 AM
Tiny
MVANNESSJR
  • MECHANIC
  • 223 POSTS
Check output of alternator under load. I'm thinking the alternator is not putting out proper voltage with all of your accessories running.
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Tuesday, March 21st, 2006 AT 9:50 AM
Tiny
MIKE E
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I see a voltage drop at the battery, and when I connect multimeter to hot post on alternator and battery negative, I see DCV drop from 14.1 to low 13/ hi 12 w/ access on.
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Tuesday, March 21st, 2006 AT 10:50 AM
Tiny
MVANNESSJR
  • MECHANIC
  • 223 POSTS
Great, now try putting the car in drive (yes this will require either two people or wheel chucks and parking brake). I'm sure it will drop under 12v. Especially with the lights on, radio, etc. This is a sign of a bad alternator. If I'm right, you may have spent a lot of money on things you didn't need.
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Tuesday, March 21st, 2006 AT 10:20 PM
Tiny
MIKE E
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I'll post the results of the "Drive" test. Thanks for the tips, everyone. I'm replacing injectors because they are leaking all over the back of the engine. Instead of a seal kit, thought I'd just replace them. May take an old one and see if I can reseal/ clean. I've seen ads for companies that will clean/ exchange injectors. Anyone comments?
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Wednesday, March 22nd, 2006 AT 7:28 AM

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