My engine has no power why?

Tiny
TINCUPMI
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I pulled the 2 fuses marked ECM under the hood for about 10 min. I was told this would help clear the driving habits of the previous owner. It made it worse I think.
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 7:30 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TEDLYDUB
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Fuel pump, filter new lines
intake gasket
egr
all new.
Someone said MAF sensor too tired of throwin money at it.
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 7:30 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PEAR69
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,482 POSTS
Ok lets start here. This is a very simple test. You need an assistant. Get an old rag like an old tee shirt or something like that. Go and drive around for about 15 or 20 minutes or so-- get the motor up to opperating temperature---Then stop but DO NOT TURN OFF THE MOTOR. Get the old rag and drape it over the exaust pipe. Observe how the rag is blowing away form tha tail pipe---have an assistant press the throttle just a little tiny bit to bring the rpms up to 1000 or 1100 that's all. If AT ANY MOMENT IN TIME the rag sucks into the exaust pipe you probably have a sticking exaust valve. Let me know the results of the rag test.

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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 7:30 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KNIGHTRYDA01
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Try the rotor (the thing that spins) with the distributor That's what was wrong with mine. Runs smooth as day now.
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 7:30 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TINCUPMI
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Did the test. It doesnt suck in, just kind of goes back and forth (rag) slightly. When reved up at a higher rpm and let off, it did suck in though. Did the test on a new truck and it did the same thing. Is there any other way to test this? Is there a way to fix a sticking exhaust valve other than tearing apart the engine?
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 7:30 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PEAR69
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,482 POSTS
If the rag didn't suck in at a low rpm then it's most likely not a sticking exaust valve. There realy is no way to test this unless you have a trouble code leading you to a particular cylinder, or if you rip the heads off. It's probably not sticking anyway so lets move on. You may have a clogged injector or a sticking poppit in the injector. Unfortunatly there is no test for this but you can do this. Run the gas tank down to about 1/4 tank. Put some cheveron injector cleaner with techtron, in the big bottle, in the gas tank. Run that way until the gagus is almost empty. Then fill the tyank up half way and put another bottle in. Run that down and see what happens. Techtron is the chemical that the chevy dealers run through the fuel ststem at high presure to clean the injectors. Also, check or have the fuel pressure checked. It should be 66 or 60 psi. If not let me know. Check the plug wires. If you replace them put ac/delco wires in it. The aftermarket wires DO NOT, for some reason, work properly.I know these wires are expensive but they work. What type plugs did you use? Check ait cleaner area foe any leaks. How's the dist cap and rotor?
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 7:30 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PEAR69
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,482 POSTS
Sorry about the spelling in that last reply. Check air cleaner for any leaks. Besure to NOT use Bosch spark plugs ( lots of problems with Bosch). Tank and gauge are some of the other misspellings oops.
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 7:30 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TCHORAN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 CHEVROLET TAHOE
Engine Performance problem
1999 Chevy Tahoe V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 112k miles

Issue started on long slight inclines as a shudder during climb w/ RPM's 1000-1500. Keeping the RPM's above 2k, seems to alleviate the shudder entirely. It got slightly worse over two weeks or so, ultimately resulting in a pretty significant loss of power when stomping the throttle. I pulled a PO306 (cyl6 misfire) from the service light and replaced all plugs and wires. That gave me almost all of the power back for a few days. Then during that same 1/2 mile slow climb, the shudder returned and engine light with it. A new fuel filter at this point. A few days later when trying to accelerate up a hwy on ramp, all power fell away. I pulled over and GENTLY worked the throttle to get me back home. Even conservative green light acceleration would result in nearly complete loss of power. Brought it to a shop, they tested the pressure at 45-55 psi and said the fuel pump was on it's way out. Those numbers seemed close to spec, but I replaced the pump anyhow (myself). Once new pump was in (yesterday), I took it out to test 0-60 on a flat, hard steep climbing, slow grinding climb, everything was totally good to go. Super responsive, etc. Seemed like the new pump fixed it. Then this morning. On THAT SAME slow climb. The shudder returned, engine light is back on again. I can feel the truck bogging down on nearly any incline again, and have to keep the rpm's up to avoid that shudder, loss of power. So. Bad compression. Valve cover, fuel pressure regulator, something in that neighborhood? Any suggestions are very appreciated!
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 7:30 PM (Merged)
Tiny
OZN1024
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
When my 99 tahoe gave me the same problem I had to not only change the plugs and wire but also the distributer and rotor cap. Hope this helps.
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 7:30 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,540 POSTS
  • 1999 CHEVROLET TAHOE
  • 130,000 MILES
I have lack of power and misfire when I first take off. It is worse when car has sat for awhile. It has a new fuel pump. I've also had the fuel pressure checked and an injector balance done and it all checked ok. No fuel pressure drop or restrictions. It has a new fuel filter and spark plugs. It seems to drive a little better after 5-10 minutes but still feels like it has poor power. When It's under a load I feel it act up the worse. It has history misfires on 1 4 and 6 cylinders. Can a bad cap and rotor cause this?
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 7:30 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
You sure its the correct type plugs and gapped to specs-check the cap and rotor contact points and for cracks on the cap-also check the coil primary and secondary winding resistances to include the plug wire resistances and check those cylinders compression-
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 7:30 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BBONSAL
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 CHEVROLET TAHOE
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 134,000 MILES
My truck has no power wont rev over 3000 rpm and has a p1300 code for random missfire need to know possible causes and parts to check
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 7:30 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
P0300 is a random misfire normally caused by vacuum leaks and bad

Oxygen sensor
Dirty fuel injectors (cleaning the injectors often fixes this).
Bad MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor
Bad TPS (throttle position) sensor
Bad or dirty MAF (mass airflow) sensor
Low fuel pressure (leaky fuel pressure regulator or weak fuel pump)
Vacuum leaks (intake manifold, vacuum hoses, throttle body, EGR valve)
Bad gasoline (fuel contaminated with water or too much alcohol)

Sometimes, what feels like a hesitation is actually ignition misfire rather than lean misfire. The causes of ignition misfire may include:

Dirty or worn spark plugs
Bad plug wires
Weak ignition coil
Wet plug wires
Cap and rotor
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 7:30 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JWEST2828
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1999 CHEVROLET TAHOE
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 185,000 MILES
Power loss in truck
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 7:30 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PEAR69
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,482 POSTS
Loss of power can be 1.7 million different things. Can you be more specific as to what happens when the engine looses power.
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 7:30 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ZACHBDA1
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
  • 1998 CHEVROLET TAHOE
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 135,000 MILES
What to do if a 1998 Chevy Tahoe want go over 5 miles a hour after replacing the fuel regulator?
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Sunday, August 12th, 2018 AT 11:59 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
What was the initial problem that made you change the reg?

Mark (mhpautos)
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Sunday, August 12th, 2018 AT 11:59 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ZACHBDA1
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Well it starts up when cold and runs good just idle, then when I press my pedal it boggs out and want go over 5 miles a hour. So I went to get a test and the codes showed regulator and O2 sensors, so I also did a tune up on it as well and changed the fuel filter. So its still doing the same thing after all of this. Codes are not showing anything else. This thing runs bad when trying to move forward. HELP!
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Sunday, August 12th, 2018 AT 12:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Have you checked the fuel pressure, is the cat converter over heating, turning red?

Mark (mhpautos)
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Sunday, August 12th, 2018 AT 12:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ZACHBDA1
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Where would I look to see if it turns red?
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Sunday, August 12th, 2018 AT 12:00 PM (Merged)

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