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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 6:43 PM
(Merged)
JDL
- MECHANIC
- 16,098 POSTS
Flush the heater core.
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HEATER NOT WORKING
MTRACY56
- MEMBER
- 1 POST
- 2006 CHEVROLET IMPALA
Heater problem
2006 Chevy Impala 73,500 miles
do Impala's still have thermostats? All I get is cold air and the engine temp is right in the middle (not overheating).
2006 Chevy Impala 73,500 miles
do Impala's still have thermostats? All I get is cold air and the engine temp is right in the middle (not overheating).
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+1
Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 6:43 PM
(Merged)
WRENCHTECH
- MECHANIC
- 20,761 POSTS
With the engine at full operating temp, locate the 2 heater
hoses where they go into the firewall and feel them to see if
they are both hot to the touch. If they are.
The heat in that vehicle is controlled by a blend door that
regulates heated air flow. It is operated by an electric
motor/actuator. The problem can be that the actuator is stripped
or inoperative or the door itself could be damaged. This is what
needs to be determined by examining the actuator and see if it
is responding to heat change commands or not.
hoses where they go into the firewall and feel them to see if
they are both hot to the touch. If they are.
The heat in that vehicle is controlled by a blend door that
regulates heated air flow. It is operated by an electric
motor/actuator. The problem can be that the actuator is stripped
or inoperative or the door itself could be damaged. This is what
needs to be determined by examining the actuator and see if it
is responding to heat change commands or not.
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+4
Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 6:43 PM
(Merged)
WRENCHTECH
- MECHANIC
- 20,761 POSTS
Most of these systems will bleed the air out automatically. This wouldn't even be an issue unless there was a leak or recent cooling system repair.
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 6:43 PM
(Merged)
WALLY75
- MEMBER
- 1 POST
- 2006 CHEVROLET IMPALA
- 6 CYL
- FWD
- AUTOMATIC
- 120,000 MILES
My 06 impala's heater is not operating properly. Not much heat comes out, but when you change the function(defrost, vent, feet, etc) none comes out for a while.
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 6:43 PM
(Merged)
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
- MECHANIC
- 109,755 POSTS
Are you refering to not much air pressure comes out or the temp of the air flow that is not very hot.
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 6:43 PM
(Merged)
MURPHYELIZ
- MEMBER
- 1 POST
- 2006 CHEVROLET IMPALA
- 71,000 MILES
Engine sounds ruff when driving, code on dash show turn off ac
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 6:44 PM
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DJCL
- MECHANIC
- 767 POSTS
Sounds like the engine is running hot. Check the cooling system. See if there is air in the system and or low on coolant.
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 6:44 PM
(Merged)
LADYV527
- MEMBER
- 1 POST
- 2006 CHEVROLET IMPALA
- 144,000 MILES
I've been getting a knocking sound from behind the dashboard every time I change from ac to heat since last year. Now my heat doesn't work. Does the knocking sound have anything to do with it? What could be the problem?
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 6:44 PM
(Merged)
RENAUDTN
- MECHANIC
- 636 POSTS
It could be related. It sounds like something is wrong with the blend door/blend door actuator.
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 6:44 PM
(Merged)
2CP-ARCHIVES
- MEMBER
- 4,540 POSTS
- 2006 CHEVROLET IMPALA
- 122,556 MILES
How to fix nockin noise on dashboard heater wont work
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 6:44 PM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
- MECHANIC
- 109,755 POSTS
Can you explain what is happening? I'm not sure what you are asking.
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 6:44 PM
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TFPATCHIN
- MEMBER
- 1 POST
- 2006 CHEVROLET IMPALA
- 3.5L
- 6 CYL
- FWD
- AUTOMATIC
- 78,482 MILES
Car running at normal operating temperature, no leaks, new thermostat. Heater hoses going to heater core are cold to the touch
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 6:44 PM
(Merged)
HOMER1967
- MECHANIC
- 875 POSTS
It sounds like the new thermostat is stuck open or the coolant fans are running constantly
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 6:44 PM
(Merged)
WRENCHTECH
- MECHANIC
- 20,761 POSTS
If the engine is at operating temp but the heater hoses are cold, then the heater core has to be plugged up. You can remove both heater hoses and backflush the core in both directions with a garden hose.
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 6:44 PM
(Merged)
HOMER1967
- MECHANIC
- 875 POSTS
A clogged heater core could result in one cold heater hose but not both, outlet hose yes, but not the inlet hose.
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 6:44 PM
(Merged)
JOHN HO10
- MEMBER
- 46 POSTS
- 2006 CHEVROLET IMPALA
- 3.5L
- 6 CYL
- 2WD
- AUTOMATIC
- 135,000 MILES
Had "no heat at idle" a couple years ago. Had thermostat replaced and eventually heat at idle returned after cooling system air purge that I did myself. And I do not have an air bleed valve that I can find on this engine
However, this same issue has reared its ugly head again. Coolant is "full" and temp gauge is always half-way between C and H. I followed this procedure:
1. Engine cool. 2. Remove rad cap. 3. Disconnect upper heater core hose from metal pipe on engine. 4. Added coolant to pipe until full. Raised (as high as possible) rubber hose still attached to heater core and filled with coolant. 5. Reconnected heater core hose to pipe. 6. Started engine, RPM's to 1500-1700 steady. 7. Top off coolant at engine before reducing RPM's to idle speed, and replace rad cap. 8. Attain normal operating temp and check for heat at idle. Monitor coolant in reservoir. I again have heat at idle.
Why does this continue to occur? What else might be happening? Should both heater hose temps be the same? If not, which one should be hotter? Has GM ever issued a "silent" recall on this air-in the cooling system problem? Since the car was new, I've heard water "gurgling" behind dash at start-up. Strange.
However, this same issue has reared its ugly head again. Coolant is "full" and temp gauge is always half-way between C and H. I followed this procedure:
1. Engine cool. 2. Remove rad cap. 3. Disconnect upper heater core hose from metal pipe on engine. 4. Added coolant to pipe until full. Raised (as high as possible) rubber hose still attached to heater core and filled with coolant. 5. Reconnected heater core hose to pipe. 6. Started engine, RPM's to 1500-1700 steady. 7. Top off coolant at engine before reducing RPM's to idle speed, and replace rad cap. 8. Attain normal operating temp and check for heat at idle. Monitor coolant in reservoir. I again have heat at idle.
Why does this continue to occur? What else might be happening? Should both heater hose temps be the same? If not, which one should be hotter? Has GM ever issued a "silent" recall on this air-in the cooling system problem? Since the car was new, I've heard water "gurgling" behind dash at start-up. Strange.
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 6:44 PM
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HMAC300
- MECHANIC
- 48,601 POSTS
If working ok both hoses should be about the same hard to tell temp without a guage of some sort. Pull your hvac fuse for 60 seconds it may reset your actuators. I fboth hoses are hot then your actuators aren't working correctly. It cold be a control head not sending power or the actuators themselves. Pictured is rh one it can be replaced by dropping glove box door and letting box come all the way out.
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+2
Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 6:44 PM
(Merged)
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