Growling noise front driver side - bearing hub replacement?

My boyfriend recently forgot to tighten the lugs on the drivers side front tire. I drove approximately 30 miles or more with them loose. As a result, 3 studs broke off completely the next day after tightening lugs and driving to work. I replaced the studs and noticed a few days later a grinding and noise. Diagnosed it to be the wheel bearing. I removed the hub and the outer race, I believe its called, was broken off and there was a bearing completely missing inside. Would the wheel bearing failure be caused by the loose lugs? And what else might have been affected by this? Im also replacing upper ball joint.

I decided to order the hub for the other side. Now that I know how to replace it all it should be pretty easy. Considering the drivers side ball joint was a bitch to get out. I hammered at that thing for hours it felt like. I think I should replace the shocks too. I feel everything on rough roads. Even good roads feel kindav turbulent. How can I tell if they need to be replaced? That's what makes the turbulence go away right? The shocks?

Thanks for any help anyone could give me. My driver side front axle seal went out. So I replaced it, the bearing I didn't think was too bad. But in less then a week the seal went out again. The bearing looks like it comes out fron the axel side. My question is how does the bearing come out? Do I have to take the differential apart? It has what looks like a large nut with a number of teeth on it. That seams to hold the bearing in. Does this come out? If so how? Are there any other reason the seal would go out and not be the bearing?

Mastertechtim
I agree, the autopart store wherer my son picked it up 4 me said it would work. It was different.I say it was not the right size.I'll have to go to the dealer or somewhere to give me the right one.I still have the old one.I was told just because they don't look a like don't mean it wont work.

I didn't think to look at the shaft, if there was anythin g on it it would cut the seal.

IThere was some nose, but it was due to lost oil.
Thanks again
Frank

When I push the button to shift to 4wd Hi. The light comes on and it looks like the Blazer is in 4WD but the front wheels do not lock in and turn. It appears the electronic portion is working properly because as I push the buttons it transfers from 2Hi to 4Hi and back when I push 2Hi. Should I look at a mechanism used to lock the hubs or are the hubs bad?

I believe my hubs are automatic. I don't see a way to lock them on the wheels. I had an explorer in the past that had manual hub locks on the wheels but I don't see those on my chevy.

Hi I would look to the vacuum actuator between the transfer case and the front axle. The older modle are underneith the battery. That could be cause the front axle not to engage.

Ok the front wheels are engaged by a motor on the side of transfer case and it is controled by a module that is located behind kick panel on passenger side and you may hear it click when you hit the button but the motor maybe to week to engage the transfer case kind of like a weak window lift motor there is no vacuum actuator that shifts the transfer case im not sure what the actuator is for under the tray but it dont shift the transfer case the motor is what I would suspect if the light is on and no 4x4 engaged I could be wrong but my 2003 is not vacuum operated and it would not make since and it does not have locking hubs or automatic hubs for that matter