Car will not start, radio not working

Hello,

This could be a couple of different things, but let's start with the starter relay. With an assistant cranking the ignition switch, I am going to need you to get a voltage reading from pin #81 at the starter relay. I have included a link down below for you to go to if you are un familiar with how to use a multi-meter as you will need to use one to do this.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

In the diagrams down below I have included a Starting System wiring diagram as well as a relay description for you. Please get the voltage reading and get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

Hi
Would have starter draw test and battery load test done. Also make sure battery terminals are clean and tight.
Hope this helps
Thanks for donate

I try not to think about machinery but tests will tell whagt's up

Chances are the ignition wires distributor cap are getting wet and causing the ignition to short and not provide spark to the plugs. I would start by replacing them to see if that helps. It's the cheapest way to start.

Next time it refuses to start don't wait for it to make up its mind-do below immediately to determine if its fuel or spark problem

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, Do you hear the fuel pump come On when you turn key on? If not check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if okay-check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,cap and rotor,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, Do you hear the fuel pump come On when you turn key on? If not check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if okay-check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,cap and rotor,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing

If both fuel and spark is present-check the valve and ignition timing, this will lead you to problems
with compression and valves opening and closing at the wrong time/broken or jumped timing
belt/chain.

Hello, as far as the blower motor, check the basics. Fuse 1 --30 amp in the junction block, goes hot when you turn on the key. Fuse 16-- 40 amp in the power distribution center under the hood, hot all the time. Not only check the fuse, but check that the fuse circuit is hot when it should be, use a testlite. At the ignition switch wiring connector, check 2 wires for voltage, key on, pink with black tracer and black with orange tracer. Maybe your not able to do any testing, but, I don't how else to help. Goodluck

Hi theedster. Welcome to the forum. The first thing to do when it doesn't start is to listen for the hum of the fuel pump. You should hear it run for one second after turning on the ignition switch. If you hear that hum, the fuel pump is working. They rarely quit while driving. When they fail, it is almost always a failure to start up.

The pump will turn on again during engine rotation, cranking or running. If it does not, it is most often because the Engine Computer is not turning on the Automatic Shutdown (ASD) relay in response to missing pulses from the camshaft position sensor. That sensor can fail completely but it is very common for them to become heat-sensitive and fail while driving. Hearing the pump run while cranking can be difficult. A better method is to use a cheap digital voltmeter to measure the voltage on the dark green / orange stripe wire in the connector for the coil pack or either of the small wires on the back of the alternator if you can reach them. You should see around 12 volts for one second after turning on the ignition switch and again while cranking the engine. If it doesn't come back during cranking, suspect the camshaft position sensor.

When it doesn't crank, do you hear one kind of loud clunk from the starter? If so, suspect worn contacts in the starter solenoid. They can be replaced for 20 bucks, but most people just replace the entire starter. This is particularly common with the small silver Nippendenso starter.

Caradiodoc