Car will not start in the Morning

What is the symptom when it does not start? Is it simply a long crank time? If so, the best suspect is fuel pressure is dropping off when the engine is stopped. There are two ways to verify that. The best way is to connect a fuel pressure gauge and watch what happens to the pressure over many hours. That pressure should hold for weeks.

If pressure is dropping, suspect a leaking injector. To look for a clue, turn the ignition switch to "run" for a few seconds, but do not crank the engine. Turn the switch off, wait a few seconds, then turn it on again. Do that a third time, then start the engine. The fuel pump will run for one second each time you turn the ignition switch on. That will get the pressure up high enough for the engine to start and run.

When you try to start the engine normally, the fuel pump only runs for one second, and that is not long enough to build up the pressure once it has bled down to 0 psi. During cranking, the starter's very high current draws the battery's voltage down to much less than twelve volts, and that means the fuel pump runs slower than normal. That makes it real difficult for the pump to build pressure during cranking.

That is a lot longer than the long crank time I referred to. The long crank time means around five to ten seconds of cranking.

I would connect a fuel pressure gauge so you will know exactly what is happening related to pressure. Next would be to connect a scanner so you can see what the engine computer is reacting to. Of particular interest would be the intake air temperature sensor. It is extremely rare for a temperature sensor to fail because there is just one resistor in them, but wiring problems are common.

Temperature sensors are fed with 5.0 volts, then the sensor draws that down to between approximately 0.5 to 4.5 volts. Anything outside that range will set a diagnostic fault code. If some corrosion builds up between the two terminals in the connector, that will also cause the voltage to drop, and that incorrectly tells the computer the air temperature is higher than it really is. At higher temperatures, the computer commands less fuel for the priming squirt, and that may be too little to get the engine started.

Squirting in a little starting fluid will get the engine started if that air temperature sensor is the suspect, but to do that, you have to disconnect the fresh air tube. Every manufacturer except Chrysler needs a mass air flow sensor to measure the weight of the incoming air, then the computer calculates the correct amount of fuel to go with it. There cannot be any leaks in that tube between the mass air flow sensor and the throttle body. If any air sneaks in that does not go through the sensor, no fuel will be commanded to go with it. If you spray in a little starting fluid, you will need to reconnect the tube before cranking the engine.

Given the really long time it takes before your engine will start, another good suspect is the crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft position sensor. These often fail by becoming heat-sensitive, then they work again after cooling down for about an hour. The problem you described is more likely to be caused by an air gap that is too big, but that applies to those sensors that are adjustable. Yours are not. Still, if you have access to a scanner to view live data, it will show if signals are being received from both sensors during cranking. If either signal is missing, you will not have spark or injector pulses. When the engine finally does start, there will be no sign of excessive fuel at the tail pipe. Consider checking for spark when the engine will not start.