Car will not start

Tiny
AZMECHANIC
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 PONTIAC MONTANA
  • 3.4L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
Driving down the road minding my own business, and the engine shuts off on me. No sputtering, no surging, no stalling, it just shuts off. The check engine light did not come on. It still turns over but will not start. Not getting any spark. There is a connector with two wires that connects to the coil pack. I have been told that this supplies the voltage to the coil pack. One wire looks red and the other is black with a white stripe. I say it looks red because it is not a bright red. It is a faded red. It could be another color because it is faded a lot. I thought the ECM may have bet its maker, but I am not sure. A friend suggested it could be the crankshaft position sensor (I have read where this vehicle has two of them.) And/or the camshaft position sensor. Also, I have looked for the crankshaft position sensor, and it looks like you have to take the harmonic balancer/pulley off to get to the bolt that holds the crankshaft position sensor in place. I would like help testing the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors before taking them out. I do have a volt ohm meter, and I know how to use it. (I have built a Heathkit TV with my dad when I was in high school and other Heathkit items.) Also, I would like advice on taking the sensors out if needed. Advice such as do I have to take the harmonic balance/pulley off to remove the crankshaft position sensor behind it, and where are the other two sensors. Also, I want to make sure that the ECM is getting voltage to it. Which wire(s) should I test when the ignition is in the on position. I have checked all the fuses and they are okay. I am a decent backyard mechanic. I have replaced head gaskets twice (Once on this car. It did start right up.), Clutches twice, water pumps, alternators, power steering pumps, radiators, brakes, A/C compressor, and other small items. Thanks for your help. I do appreciate it. Also, any other things you can think of to check would be appreciated. One last thing, if the crankshaft and/or camshaft position sensors are bad, would that stop the ECM from supply voltage to the coil pack and prevent spark from occurring. Thank you so much. Jim Cohn
Sunday, October 10th, 2021 AT 8:09 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good morning,

The more common issue is the ignition control module. It is under the coils. When it fails, it just shuts off the truck.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

I attached the procedure for you below.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Roy
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Monday, October 11th, 2021 AT 1:54 AM
Tiny
AZMECHANIC
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Whether the answer was helpful depends on this follow up question. The answer said it was most likely the ignition control module. However, in my question, I stated that the ignition control module was not receiving any power. There is a two-connector wire that, I believe, is on the left side of the module. One wire appears to be red, although it is faded, and the other wire is black with a white stripe which is probably ground. My research, if correct, states this supplies power to the ignition control module. There is no voltage at the red wire in the run or start position of the ignition switch. What should the voltage be? My main question was if either the electronic control module, the crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft position sensor goes bad, would any or all of these cause the ignition control module not to get voltage? (I am guessing that only an ECM failure would cause the ignition control module not to receive power. But I do not know for sure. That is why I am asking the question.) I also asked if there was a way to test the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor, and how to remove them. If the ignition control module was getting voltage, I would agree that that would most likely be the problem. I do not mean to be a pain in the butt with this question. I do appreciate your service. Thanks for the reply. Jim.
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Monday, October 11th, 2021 AT 2:56 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
I attached the fuse that controls the power to the red wire at the module.

You should have power at the fuse on both sides with the key on. If you do and the red wire has no power, then the wire is broken between the fuse block and the connector.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

If it has no power, then it may be the fuse that failed. Replace it and see if it runs.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Roy
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Monday, October 11th, 2021 AT 4:12 PM

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