Car still wont start, fuel pump and injectors still not getting electricity?

2.4L • AUTOMATIC
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MYSTERYFAITH55
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  • 1 POST
Car went into limp mode. Was starting fine when I left it. Came back, battery had dead cell. I got a new battery. Just to fine out it still wont crank without starter fluid. Checked fuse box and all my 20a and 25a fuses arent getting electricity at the source. Checked 70amp maxi fuse and it looked like it had some heat damage so I changed it. And car still wont start, fuel pump and injectors still not getting electricity
Oct 11, 2026 at 11:41 AM
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CARADIODOC
  • ✓Experienced Mechanic
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First please clear up, "wont crank without starter fluid". "Cranking" means the starter is spinning the engine. No fuel or starting fluid is needed for that. Next, this implies the engine does run if you spray starting fluid into the air intake. If I have that right, you gotta have spark, then we're looking at a fuel pump problem.

The better way to start this diagnosis is by testing the operation of the automatic shutdown, (ASD) relay and circuit. Look for the wire that is the same color at every injector and ignition coil. On your car, that's the brown / white wire. Back-probe that wire at any of those places. Try to pick one that lets you see the test light from inside the car, otherwise you'll need a helper to work the ignition switch. An old-fashioned test light with a light bulb works much better than a digital voltmeter. Most meters don't respond fast enough. The test light should light up for just one second when the ignition switch is turned to "run", then it will turn back off. The fuel pump is on a different circuit with its own dedicated relay, but it gets turned on and off at the same time. You might be able to hear its hum for that one second, but don't get excited if you don't.

Next, the test light should turn on again during engine rotation, meaning cranking or running. If it does not, we need to look at the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor. It's by their signals the Engine Computer knows the engine is rotating and it's time to turn those two relays on.

For decades, Chrysler made reading diagnostic fault codes much easier than any other manufacturer, but that went away in later years. You can try cycling the ignition switch from "off" to "run" three times within five seconds, without cranking the engine. Leave it in "run", then watch the code numbers appear in the odometer display. If that doesn't work, you'll need a code reader to get that information. The people at many auto parts stores will read those codes for you for free. Be aware, they never say to replace a part or that one is bad. They only provide information as to which circuit needs to be diagnosed, or an unacceptable operating condition. If you can find any fault codes, let me know what they are.

I'll be back tomorrow to see what you found.
Oct 11, 2026 at 5:28 PM
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