Car stall while driving?

So my guy replaced the IAC - he said it was filthy and that Toyota Parts person said it was a common problem - But car still has the same problem - Except car will stall once it has been driven around - No problems when cold. Still hitting a dead spot at times when accelerating. I am going to suggest the Throttle Position Sensor - My guy says there are loads of sensor - I just don't want to keep throwing money in to the car

Hard to tell a Mechanic what could be wrong - when all I do is work on a computer

Any help would be appreciated

So Mechanic replaced IAC - mechanic mentions that Fuel Pump is shutting down once car heats up - but there is spark

I had the Fuel Pump replaced was under warranty as I had replaced again this past weekend - By another shop that was dishonest - they were trying to get me for diagnostic testing - Once I brought to my guy he claimed they did an abortion to the supporting are to fuel - that they didn't replace the whole assembly

Shakes or Wobbles problem
1996 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Automatic 103000 miles

I have a 1996 Toyota Camry, and about 1.5 months ago, while I was on the interstate traveling about 80 - 85, it began missing slightly. It wasn't enough to cause whiplash, but I noticed it and eased off to about 70 - 75 and the problem resolved itself. It didn't materialize again until I was on the interstate maybe several weeks later, but this time it was more pronounced. The problem became intermittent, but happened at lower speeds - like accelerating from rest to 30 - 45mph. The other day, while making a turn to go up a smaller grade hill, I ended up flooring it and could only get the car up to 25 - 30mph. It stayed like this for maybe 5 - 10 seconds, and I then heard a very low sounding hiss/gas escaping sound that was followed by a short, single metallic ting/ping. The sounds, to me, seemed as if they were coming from the left/driver side of the engine compartment. Once the metallic ting/ping sound ended, the car immediately accelerated normally and the problem resolved itself again. It has happened several times since, always resolving itself.

Knowing I had to have the car serviced, I started trying to find a reputable mechanic through a friend (as I'm new in town), when I had to go out of town. Right before I left, I had the oil changed and the Jiffy Lube print out reported "no seen problems" in terms of leaks, etc, and topped off all my fluids. I drove close to 3 hours on the interstate at 80 - 85 with no problems. I got to my destination, turned the car off, got back in after about an hour and the problem started again at like 60 - 70mph mildly lurching and missing. I began to ease off the gas and started get off the interstate, and by the time I got off the interstate, I was going no more than 35 - 40mph with it close to being floored. At the top off the off ramp, I came to a stop to try and turn and the car stalled and died. I smelled a slight odor of something burning or of something have been burnt. The transmission light came on. I restarted the car and drove it to a gas station with it missing/lurching still, but not as much as before. The transmission light went off when I restarted, and I checked the fluid levels after I got to the gas station - which were fine. There was no smoke, hissing, leaking fluids or anything out of the ordinary associated with the engine then that I could see. Also, at no time has my check engine light ever come on.

I just got back from Firestone as I just wanted it checked now regardless so I could drive back home. My thought was maybe a clog in the fuel line or the fuel filter. I paid $100 to have the diagnostics ran, which showed. Ehh. It did show that my #1 selenoid is giving the error code "random/mulitple misfires." They also found a crack in an air-intake tubing. The tech said that my plugs, dist cap, wiring needs to be replaced because they look bad and it is past the "recommended replacement time, " but that nothing specific came up on them from the diagnositc. I specifically asked him about the fuel system. He says that he recommends it be "serviced and cleaned" through their $70 fuel system option, but otherwise nothing was noted on the diagnostic - I specifically asked and he said that there was no noted drop in the fuel system pressure.

Am I wrong to think it is the fuel filter/fuel system? Could it be anything else - electrical, plugs, etc? Could the solenoid really cause these combined, intermittent problems? With all their "recommended" servicing, tune ups, replacing the water pump as my belts need to be replaced too, and a new set of tires, Firestone wants around $2000 to do everything. They're not getting it. They're giving no reason as for the problems that brought me in other to say that if I have everything replaced, it may clear up the problem. I'm now confused as if they even looked at the fuel filter/system (which I'm going to talk to them tomorrow about), but any help/recommendations would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

I'm sorry as to the length, but I tried to include a much info as possible. Also, regardless, I am going to have a "tune up" peformed to replaced spark plugs, wiring, etc as it does need to be done.

Are your comments standard procedure when replacing a fuel pump? I hope it works I would hate to spend $500 and it doesn't

Thanks for your help - How is the weather in Guam it is a nice steamy 20 degrees in New York

I too have a similar problem with my 1996 toyota camry. I have also read various posts on the internet about the same problems with this year/model.

What happens to my 1996 camry is sometimes when I hit the brakes the cars rpm's start to fluctuate up and down rapidly. More downward then up, as if it is having a hard time keeping the idle. Then if I dont step on the accelorator to give it gas and get the rpm's up, it will stall. So sometimes I find myself at a stoplight with one foot on the brake and the other on the gas to keep the rpms steady and from dropping and stalling. Lately the car is doing this more often. Everything else on the car runs great.

I have tried to have it fixed by 2 differant mechanics. They both didnt know exactly what the problem was but one who is a friend of my family and very honest tried to clean out the fuel injectors, change some plugs, change the idle rpms. None of this worked. His computer also read "multiple missfires" from the code from my cars check engine light. The other mechanic said the problem was a cold start valve, he changed this on my car but it was not the answer. All that did was have the car start great but still having the same prob

PLEASE HELP: I know this is a common problem with this car from what I have been reading. CAN SOMEBODY WHO HAS FIXED OR CORRECTED THIS PROBLEM OR KNOWS HOW TO PLEASE TELL US HOW?

THANKS.

So he has the car running for over an hour and it will not stall - so he can pin test it. Checking everything still nothing harnesses, connections, I don't know at this point
I gave him all of your suggestions

Yesterday he checked all connections to fuel pump like you said - Had the car in the garage running for 3 Hours - no stalling - Car was blocked in as roof was being replaced - He is not sure if car didn't stall as it wasn't being driven or that it was in a warm garage
I would think if car ran that long in " Park " maybe it was a loose connection - How can you see if Fule pump was truly replaced?

I drive my Camry for about 20-25 minutes on the road. As I approach a red light or stop sign, the car begins to shake and then it suddenly stalls IF I don't take my foot off the brakes quickly and then apply the gas. Every time I apply the brakes and come to a stop for about 5 minutes, the car begins to shake and finally stall. Also when it stalls, the car doesn't want to start. I start for about 5-6 times and the engine seems to just crank, but no starting occurs. After I wait 6-7 minutes, I start again, and the car starts normally, but ONLY after waiting 6-7 minutes. This is a weird problem and I've taken the car to the Toyota dealership, and they've been charging me up to the nose and have not come up with a resolution. They've done an AVR test and the car came with positive marks. I'm guessing there's something wrong with the fuel line or something related to the fuel injection system. Please get back to me asap, thx,

Stan

Thanks Rasmataz for your timely response. I'm just wondering ALL those things you told me, do they have to do with the fuel injecting system? (EGR Valve, throttle position sensor, and airflow metre). Also I'll tell you what the dealership guys did:

1. Conducted an AVR test and checked the electrical, battery and starter systems and found everything was OK.

2. They did an oil change (on my request as the oil change was approaching the maintenance date) and fixed my front brakes and machined the front rotors.

3. Next, they RECOMMENDED that my distributor cap and rotors need to be replaced since they found some corrosion on the cap and rotors. Again this is all necessary according to them to fix the stalling problem.

At this stage (step 3), I thought about it and decided to ask you guys (I've paid almost $500+ and still the Toyota dealership can't come to a solution). This is crazy!

Stan

When I drive my car after the engine has been rested(until it's cold) it drives just fine. Then until after about a good 8 miles and above, the car starts to shake at idle and then it sometimes will even die. But, the car starts up everytime and sometimes it would it crank for a few seconds before acutally starting. I can drive again for 5-10 miles before this occurs again. The car drives just fine in the city and the highway as well. I'm either not getting enough fuel or sparks somewhere. What could be causing this problem? Let me know.

Car refuses to accelerates when turtle is applied rather it drags and drags after sometimes before it finally pick up. @ Times when driving the car automatically comes to an halt by itself, but starts when restarted.